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I saw that also in my searches but my VALVE was fine, as was the assembly. It was just the Vac pod that was bad. As you can see, you can buy just the Vac pod. I didnt t want to deal with the chances of different hole spacing on the entire assembly when re.installing it. Some pods are clocked differently in reference to the valve/assembly etc.
as for Darriens Question. I'm putting out 476 rwhp now
The line that feeds the vac pod is no bigger than any other vac line on the car really, so a leak there really isn't that noticeable. Yes, there is a vac leak and a boost leak present but the integrity of the VAC pod/line is how the BYPASS VALVE is actuated....that is where the problem is.
The vacuum offsets the spring pressure. It is the spring pressure that drives the valve to a normal closed "on boost" position. This means the Sc'r is constantly pumping air and not recirculating it through the bypass.. Its the capacity of the engine to swallow this air that gives you boost or not (in simple terms) With a bad valve the Sc'r is working/ dragging the motor all the time...idle..putzing around in traffic etc. When i put my foot into it, it still made boost.. I felt my motor was a bit sluggish...akin to having another AC unit running is the analogy. Parasite drag on the engine ALL the time.
With the valve working properly the car is definitely more punchy! and you can feel it hit.
Hans ...do those valves have the rubber diaphragm ? Ive heard of some that actuallly have a tight fitting machined metal cylinder as an actuator.?
You need to update your RWHP numbers in your signature line!! That is freaking awesome Tony. You, Darrien, and Andrew are my heroes.
You need to update your RWHP numbers in your signature line!! That is freaking awesome Tony. You, Darrien, and Andrew are my heroes.
i was just getting darriens goat up..i havent dynoed it in 10yrs..when it cools off around here i will updated the numbers. A lot has been done in 10 yrs..namely the creation of the Sharktuner.
I put in a PO with the machine shop today for five intake manifolds for the twinscrew kit. If anyone is interested in either a complete kit, or just the manifold for a custom project, please contact me. I have two sets that need homes. I would rather not have that money tied up and sitting on the shelf forever.
i was just getting darriens goat up..i havent dynoed it in 10yrs..when it cools off around here i will updated the numbers. A lot has been done in 10 yrs..namely the creation of the Sharktuner.
I put in a PO with the machine shop today for five intake manifolds for the twinscrew kit. If anyone is interested in either a complete kit, or just the manifold for a custom project, please contact me. I have two sets that need homes. I would rather not have that money tied up and sitting on the shelf forever.
Hans,
I suppose this is for an S4 application? Or will it work in an S3 as well?
I am strictly an 87+ kind of guy. Port shape, block casting, front bracket clearance, throttle actuation.... etc, not to mention the lack of knock sensors will preclude me from making the kit available for any earlier cars. If someone wanted to order some parts with the understanding they would have to modify it on their own, I would make them available for third party development.
I am strictly an 87+ kind of guy. Port shape, block casting, front bracket clearance, throttle actuation.... etc, not to mention the lack of knock sensors will preclude me from making the kit available for any earlier cars. If someone wanted to order some parts with the understanding they would have to modify it on their own, I would make them available for third party development.
I guessed as much, Hans. I was just clarifying for any one else playing along at home.
I found some time to make an install tool on the lathe for the freeze plugs for the intercooler endtanks. They press in very tight. There is supplementary o-ring in the manifold to seal against the top of the endtank for double redundancy (no leaks on this intercooler), but don't think it will be necessary.
Shown in the pictures are printed versions of the custom fittings. There is a double o-ring seal in both the intercooler end-tank and the manifold. They will be retained by stainless waterjet cut clips, allowing for a bit of float to allow for thermal expansion.
You can see that the bottom of the plug is close to the port, and is the highest point of the intercooler. The core should self-purge of all air moments after the pump runs for the first time. I wanted to make sure there were no complicated bleeding/burping procedures.
The custom fittings are designed to run Jiffty-Tite Pro Compact 60 Series quick-connect fittings. The hoses will be -10 and the the smallest diameter is only reduced to 0.6" (inside the custom fitting) so will allow for a considerable amount of flow.
This tank is heading down to Bell to get welded to the core.
I put in a PO with the machine shop today for five intake manifolds for the twinscrew kit. If anyone is interested in either a complete kit, or just the manifold for a custom project, please contact me. I have two sets that need homes. I would rather not have that money tied up and sitting on the shelf forever.
I am strictly an 87+ kind of guy. Port shape, block casting, front bracket clearance, throttle actuation.... etc, not to mention the lack of knock sensors will preclude me from making the kit available for any earlier cars. If someone wanted to order some parts with the understanding they would have to modify it on their own, I would make them available for third party development.
I had a chance to pull the intake off my 89 and install the plastic mock-up manifold in the car this weekend. Everything fit first try - great news. Also, the install went incredibly quickly. By making the kit one complete bolt-on module, I can verify that this kit will be able to be installed easily in a single afternoon (apart form any necessary cleaning of the engine).
I tried my beautiful, but too expensive inlet, and it fit perfect as well, but unfortunately I can not justify the tooling to make that part with the current level of interest. Instead, I designed an inlet that can be machined out of a block of billet fairly reasonably with no up-front tooling costs. Its not as pretty, and wont flow quite as well, but its a nice solid part.
The new inlet allows me to rotate the throttles, and put the linkage/actuation system back towards the firewall to simplify the cosmetic cover design. Even with moving the linkage to the rear, the new inlet is much more compact, so I was able to shift the supercharger back 10mm (better location of the outlet in relation to the center of the manifold).
The tensioner bracket fit and aligned perfectly as well. I do plan on increasing the length of the adjustment slots though, and possibly shifting them a couple mm to the driver side.
Ignore the ugly engine bay and the PVC pipe used to mocking up the drive snout in the pictures. The machine shop has ordered the blanks and machining the lower parts now. I had them hold off on the uppers until today, which is good since I was able to make that change with the supercharger location.
Just a couple more weeks until manifolds will be back.
Ignore the ugly engine bay and the PVC pipe used to mocking up the drive snout in the pictures. The machine shop has ordered the blanks and machining the lower parts now. I had them hold off on the uppers until today, which is good since I was able to make that change with the supercharger location.
09-21-2016, 10:19 AM
..i havent dynoed it in 10yrs..when it cools off around here i will updated the numbers. A lot has been done in 10 yrs..namely the creation of the Sharktuner.
