Rick Carter

Hi Bill,
Good idea to move this from the praise Enzo thread. I have Louie's set-up but had the cam cover vents closed. I reopened one on each side and T them in to the Pro-Vent with the oil filler line. The Pro-Vent vents to a catch can and atmosphere at the back of the car. The catch can only has a little oil water, the oil is at the front of the car and blows onto the hot exhaust when under prolonged boost (2nd and 3rd or 3rd and 4th) at higher RPM (above about 4500). Sway bar sugested a scraper. I see Grag Brown has an oil pan spacer but that also means extending the pick up.

Bill Ball

Johnson of Ishihara-Johnson says the scrapers and windage trays do not deal with the main cause of oil ejection - a lot of thought needs to be given to breather changes that will help keep oil in the engine. Still, I think the pan spacer and windage/scrapers have got to help.

Bill Ball

Hey, Rick:

Look at Louie's posts in this thread re: injector rails.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/375822-mock-up-help-engine-bay.html

Rick Carter

Bill,
I don't seem to have heat soak problems. I have a thermometer radiator cap on my IC resevoir tank; after coming in from the track the temp in the resevoir has never been over 120 after shutting the car down. I kept forgetting to check it with the engine and IC pump running.

Vlocity

Hey Rick....I never thought about putting a thermometer cap on the radiator (heat exchanger) tank....
but that corresponds pretty well with what I have seen with 7 then 8 pounds of boost, my inlet to the intercooler radiator was running about 126 with the outlet at 104 - 106.

As for my smokeless setup...I'm running some scrubbers in line and then everything is just teed into a catch can. I am getting about 1 quart after 3 - 20 minute sessions. I was hoping that you had the fix....as I'd like to see less ejection. I have the catch can inside the left front fender with a valve situated so that I can drain the tank from underneath.

Ken

Ralph Newman

I am getting ready to install mine and was wondering who is going so I could take a look at there set up. Thanks Ralph

Cameron

I posted my dyno sheet in another post and didn't get much advice, so I will post here. I have the early Andy Keel setup with the roots blower and am running a 7 psi boost pully which reads about 6 psi on my boost guage.

I am looking for advice on why my HP curve stops climbing too early (low 5ks rpm). Dyno operator said belt slipping but I am not convinced. You can observe the boost drop off on the boost guage at the corresponding rpm in the dyno sheet, but I believe that I may be hitting a different bottleneck like air intake, or intercooler max flow capacity - I don't know. The belt is very snug and has recent application of belt dressing. Any ideas? I think that i should be making closer to 400 rwhp, albeit it was a 96 degree day in Florida when we did this.

Vlocity

Hi Cameron:

How about a picture of your intake install so we have an idea of what it looks like. You might consider the air intake system that I am running as found a few pages back in this thread.

Have you actually shark tuned this as noted in your signature?

I agree with you that at 7psi on a clean intercooled install that the HP number shoud be a lot closer to 400. You are running about what Rick Carter had with his car at 6PSI non-intercooled.

If your belt is slipping you will see quite a bit of belt dust. I have the reflective hood liner and after the intial belt run in and retension the hood liner stays clean....if you clean the surface or maybe put in a piece of reflective tape, you can monitor if the belt is actually slipping to any great degree.

Let us know what you have for the air intake...it may be that you are creating a drag on the intake side of the supercharger, there is sufficient air initially and then as your CFM demads increase you are running out of air, kind of like breathing through a straw.

I spoke with K & N when sizing the filter that I chose and they advised that I would need a filter that would flow 875CFM...the filter that I used will flow 975 which allowed for a cushion as the filter gets dirty. My intake is also 4 inches in diameter and smooth on the inside with a nice tapered reduction to the MAF.

One last thought...are you sure that your throttle is opening all the way.

Let us know.....

Ken

Cameron

Ken,

Good advice. Thanks.

Yes, sharktuned. Results were posted a long time back - about 2 years ago. I am a bit on the rich side (low 12s afr) but that was done by design since I wanted to be on the safe side. I will snap a pick of the air intake tonight and post. A single K&N filter. I will post the model number. I have verified that I am getting WOT. I don't see any belt dust.

The three ideas that I have (presuming others are not seeing the HP peak at low 5k rpms like me), are:

1. Air intake restriction
2. Maxing out flow of intercooler due to capacity or heat build up or both
3. Exhaust side - I have stock GT exhaust with cats (except I have RMB)

Cameron

I think that my air filter is the RU-3130

http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=RU-3130

AO

Cameron-

2 things come to mind... actually 3.

1. BOV is leaking some boost
2. Intake is leaking
3. Belt is slipping

What you should do is make a plug to plug the air inlet near the MAF with a fitting to apply compressed air - I have see people use a PVC cap and then thread it with a quick connect fitting and a hose clap for the perimeter. Then listen to see if you can hear any leaks. This will help diagnose #1 and #2. For #3 do you have any indication the belt is slipping (i.e. belt dust, etc?) If not, it's probably not slipping (much).

DR

Cameron,

I have a few new filters here from my SC development that are substantially larger than that. If you want to try one give me a call Monday and it's yours for shipping cost.

Dimensions are 3.5" inlet, 6.5" base diameter, 4.75" top diameter and 7"+ element length, Should flow a lot more than the current one and help you eliminate that possibility.

Vlocity

Cameron.

Portions below are hijacked from the K & N website.

That brings us to size.

Use the formula below to compute the minimum size filter required for your particular application. The usable portion of the filter is called the EFFECTIVE FILTERING AREA which is determined by multiplying the diameter of the filter times Pi (3.1416) times the height of the air filter in inches, then subtracting .75-inch. We subtract .75-inch to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element and the filter material near them since very little air flows through this area.



A = effective filtering area
CID = cubic inch displacement
RPM = revolutions per minute at maximum power

Example: A 350 CID Chevy engine with a horsepower peak at 5,500 rpm.

350 x 5500 / 20839 = 92.4 square inches of surface area required.

To save you the time....and there is no relative number noted for boosted cars, the Tech at K & N suggested a surface area in the 135 - 140 range if I recall.

This would loosely correspond to our engines 302 plus size of blower (for me 2.4 liter) or 144 inches = (446 total inches) x 6000 RPM / 20839 = 139.11 square inches.

If you are sizing a panel filter, multiply the width of the filter area (not the rubber seal) times its length. If you are sizing a round filter, use the following formula to determine the height of the filter.
If you are sizing a panel filter, multiply the width of the filter area (not the rubber seal) times its length. If you are sizing a round filter, use the following formula to determine the height of the filter.


A = effective filtering area
H = height
D = outside diameter of the filter
3.14 = pi
0.75 = the rubber end caps

Your filter is tapered (4.65 base and 3.5 inch top) so it averages 4.07 inches in diameter and is 7 inches tall. The effective filtering area is roughly 4.07 x 3.14 =12.77 x 6.25 (noting the 3/4 inch deduction for the ends)= 79.87 square inches.

So clearly your filter is almost 1/2 the size it should be if we stick to the K & N information. In my opinion the filter is undersized. A good place to start is on the intake end and then move your way back through the exhaust. The filter I am using is also 4 inch tube diameter and I carry that all the way to the MAF to limit restriction.

If the cats are the originals.....who knows how restrictive they may be at this point.

I hope this helps and doesn't add any confusion.

Regards,

Ken

Bill Ball

Ralph:

Mine has been off the car for a while in order to get the car smogged for DMV, and I doubt I will get it back on before SF07. However, there should be a couple of others at SF07. Hopefully Tony Harkin is coming. Brian Donaldson would be another.

Wherabouts do you live? I could help with the install or at least be available to deal with any issues during the install.

Is this one of Andy's kits?

Cameron

Guys,

Thanks for the suggestions. I would like to start by addressing the air intake since I don't see any evidence of belt slipping such as belt dust.

I agree that the air filter is the first place to start. There may be a leak in the rest of the intake set up, I will try to check that out.

Dave, I greatly appreciate the offer and will take you up on it. You have my credit card on file (Cameron Holden - Parkland, Florida) so go ahead and bill me for shipping and send - but I will call you to remind you as well.

Here are some pics of the setup - 2 years new now.