Added an '81 Euro 5-speed
#91
Wow! That's some beautiful work.
However, the pendant in me has to point out something - Your practice of using diesel fuel instead of gasoline is a very smart one. Kerosene is also a much safer alternative to gas.
But 'combustible' is less volatile than 'flammable'.
Flammable is something that ignites at 'normal working temps' and can vaporize to a explosive mixture. Gas very clearly does this.
Combustible is something that ignites well above normal working temps.
As a side note, the DOT considers diesel as 'Flammable'. It gets the red 'class 3 - flammable' placards. And is "1202" or '1993' for the number in large enough quantities. Gas is 1203.
The 'funny' part is that diesel fuels vary quite a bit. OSHA says diesel is "flammable" when the flash point is below 60C and "combustible" when above 60C.
However, the pendant in me has to point out something - Your practice of using diesel fuel instead of gasoline is a very smart one. Kerosene is also a much safer alternative to gas.
But 'combustible' is less volatile than 'flammable'.
Flammable is something that ignites at 'normal working temps' and can vaporize to a explosive mixture. Gas very clearly does this.
Combustible is something that ignites well above normal working temps.
As a side note, the DOT considers diesel as 'Flammable'. It gets the red 'class 3 - flammable' placards. And is "1202" or '1993' for the number in large enough quantities. Gas is 1203.
The 'funny' part is that diesel fuels vary quite a bit. OSHA says diesel is "flammable" when the flash point is below 60C and "combustible" when above 60C.
#92
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Wow! That's some beautiful work.
However, the pendant in me has to point out something - Your practice of using diesel fuel instead of gasoline is a very smart one. Kerosene is also a much safer alternative to gas.
But 'combustible' is less volatile than 'flammable'.
Flammable is something that ignites at 'normal working temps' and can vaporize to a explosive mixture. Gas very clearly does this.
Combustible is something that ignites well above normal working temps.
As a side note, the DOT considers diesel as 'Flammable'. It gets the red 'class 3 - flammable' placards. And is "1202" or '1993' for the number in large enough quantities. Gas is 1203.
The 'funny' part is that diesel fuels vary quite a bit. OSHA says diesel is "flammable" when the flash point is below 60C and "combustible" when above 60C.
However, the pendant in me has to point out something - Your practice of using diesel fuel instead of gasoline is a very smart one. Kerosene is also a much safer alternative to gas.
But 'combustible' is less volatile than 'flammable'.
Flammable is something that ignites at 'normal working temps' and can vaporize to a explosive mixture. Gas very clearly does this.
Combustible is something that ignites well above normal working temps.
As a side note, the DOT considers diesel as 'Flammable'. It gets the red 'class 3 - flammable' placards. And is "1202" or '1993' for the number in large enough quantities. Gas is 1203.
The 'funny' part is that diesel fuels vary quite a bit. OSHA says diesel is "flammable" when the flash point is below 60C and "combustible" when above 60C.
Thanks for the explanation and for correcting my terminology. I just know that gas can explode in your face and diesel just catches fire. Kerosene is another choice that's similar to Diesel with less risk than gasoline when looking for safer, but still strong solvent.
Car is coming along, even though I keep finding things to fix. Should have the wheels back on by the weekend and think I'll put the seats in so I can drive it some while taking a break from the work for a bit. Next will be the interior refresh and most of the parts are now sitting in my office.
#93
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Productive evening today.
Got the Driver's side front suspension put back together, retorqued, and the wheels reinstalled. Even remembered to reinstall the Oil Filter (that would have sucked).
CV boot clamps arrived today so onto those. Put the first Passenger side one into the vise to work on it with the rubber jaw pads, put on both clamps for the outer, greased (got both bags in) and installed the inner CV joint with the snap ring, and got that mounted into the car on the Driver's side this time to reverse the wear load.
Marked each flange bolt with silver paint as I went around torquing them in a criss-cross pattern. Glad I did as I thought I was done, but spun the axle again and notice one bolt without the silver paint, and yup, it was loose. Used the long extension method placing the bolt I was working on at about the 1 o'clock position and strung together enough 3/8" extensions to get a nice straight shot on it from outside the fender. Because the extensions were about 18" long, I torqued them to 65 ft. lbs. instead of 60 ft.lbs. since I could fell the torque in the extensions. I would set the parking brake, torque one bolt, paint mark it, release the brake, rotate the hub about 180 degrees, set the brake, torque that next one, paint mark it, etc.
Then it was time for the axle nut. Yes, I did coat the splines and threads with the copper anti-seize. My 1/2" Snap-On digital torque wrench only goes to 250 ft.lbs., but does have a feature where it will display an over-torque value when you go past the set value. The nut needs 337 ft.lbs. from what I found online and I was able to get the wrench to read 311, so I think I'm close enough. I have a buddy who's a Snap-On dealer and an auto-mechanic in the evenings. I'm sure he has a 3/4" torque wrench that goes to 337 ft. lbs. so I'll drive over there once it's driveable again and get the axle nuts to the right number.
Red paint was on the bolt heads from before, so someone used the same technique I did during a previous install. Gaskets were installed on both sides of the CV joint to keep the grease contained.
1 side done!
Passenger side tomorrow night !
Got the Driver's side front suspension put back together, retorqued, and the wheels reinstalled. Even remembered to reinstall the Oil Filter (that would have sucked).
CV boot clamps arrived today so onto those. Put the first Passenger side one into the vise to work on it with the rubber jaw pads, put on both clamps for the outer, greased (got both bags in) and installed the inner CV joint with the snap ring, and got that mounted into the car on the Driver's side this time to reverse the wear load.
Marked each flange bolt with silver paint as I went around torquing them in a criss-cross pattern. Glad I did as I thought I was done, but spun the axle again and notice one bolt without the silver paint, and yup, it was loose. Used the long extension method placing the bolt I was working on at about the 1 o'clock position and strung together enough 3/8" extensions to get a nice straight shot on it from outside the fender. Because the extensions were about 18" long, I torqued them to 65 ft. lbs. instead of 60 ft.lbs. since I could fell the torque in the extensions. I would set the parking brake, torque one bolt, paint mark it, release the brake, rotate the hub about 180 degrees, set the brake, torque that next one, paint mark it, etc.
Then it was time for the axle nut. Yes, I did coat the splines and threads with the copper anti-seize. My 1/2" Snap-On digital torque wrench only goes to 250 ft.lbs., but does have a feature where it will display an over-torque value when you go past the set value. The nut needs 337 ft.lbs. from what I found online and I was able to get the wrench to read 311, so I think I'm close enough. I have a buddy who's a Snap-On dealer and an auto-mechanic in the evenings. I'm sure he has a 3/4" torque wrench that goes to 337 ft. lbs. so I'll drive over there once it's driveable again and get the axle nuts to the right number.
Red paint was on the bolt heads from before, so someone used the same technique I did during a previous install. Gaskets were installed on both sides of the CV joint to keep the grease contained.
1 side done!
Passenger side tomorrow night !
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Harvey928 (03-12-2021)
#96
Math also works for tightening the axle nut.
I go about 165. I have a 2 foot breaker bar.
Putting all my weight on the end of that bar gave the proper torque.
Or at least close.
I go about 165. I have a 2 foot breaker bar.
Putting all my weight on the end of that bar gave the proper torque.
Or at least close.
#97
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Installed the Passenger Side Stub Axle tonight, rehung the exhaust, installed the DS rear fender liner that came from 928 Int'l, put the wheels back on, and the car now sits on it's tires again. Tomorrow, I'm going to shampoo the interior carpets, maybe install the new rear seats, and try and get the new 997 hardback seats installed so I can drive it some before tearing apart the interior for the next phase. I want to make sure the clutch, brakes, and refurbished suspension work correctly. I think the 928MS front bash plates arrive tomorrow too, so I'll get them installed as well. Front end is obviously sitting really high since the car hasn't been driven yet.
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Harvey928 (03-12-2021)
#98
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After putting stuff together the other night, took different stuff apart yesterday.
Figured while the front seats were out, I'd replace the crappy rear seats and console lid with the new ones.
The drivers side rear seat back was frozen in place, but I managed to get a long pry bar on the catch and pry it up to release it and get the seat to fold forward so I could access and remove the mounting bolts.
Made a new plywood cover for the spare tire area that will be used to carry extra oil, tools, spare belts and parts.
Replaced the busted off parking brake release ****.
Ran wires for the new rear speakers that will be driven from a new stereo when I do the center console and dash replacement. Also ran a heavy gauge wire back to the battery just in case.
Cleaned and reglued some of the vinyl trim that goes under the rear seats.
Figured while the front seats were out, I'd replace the crappy rear seats and console lid with the new ones.
The drivers side rear seat back was frozen in place, but I managed to get a long pry bar on the catch and pry it up to release it and get the seat to fold forward so I could access and remove the mounting bolts.
Made a new plywood cover for the spare tire area that will be used to carry extra oil, tools, spare belts and parts.
Replaced the busted off parking brake release ****.
Ran wires for the new rear speakers that will be driven from a new stereo when I do the center console and dash replacement. Also ran a heavy gauge wire back to the battery just in case.
Cleaned and reglued some of the vinyl trim that goes under the rear seats.
Last edited by Petza914; 03-13-2021 at 01:18 PM.
#100
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Thanks. It came that way. I just removed them to bring new wires up into the holes and then reinstalled them. Rear speakers are Yamahas and the fronts are MB Quart. Fronts weren't done well and have destroyed the door panels, but I'm updating to the newer door panel style anyway. Had a small Jensen amp under the driver's seat I'll be removing too. Powering the new setup from a 45 Watt per channel RMS high power (MOFFSET amp equipped) Sony receiver. Keeping this one simpler than the 1,000 Watt stereo with sub in the Spyder.
Spyder has a similar rear speaker setup that I did.
Spyder has a similar rear speaker setup that I did.
Last edited by Petza914; 03-13-2021 at 10:20 AM.
#101
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Today upgraded the rear cargo carpet by bonding some carpet pad with rubber backing to it. Also shampood all the glued in interior carpets and floor mats.
Going to clean and condition the new leather seats and truly to get those installed tomorrow, so I can then install the new front seats.
Going to clean and condition the new leather seats and truly to get those installed tomorrow, so I can then install the new front seats.
#104
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belgiumbarry (03-14-2021)