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Well, I wasn't even looking to add another car, but this one seemed too good to be true. I had remotely helped the owner of this car get it running again since it had K-Jet and I learned a thing about that system on my recent Spyder engine swap. Shot him a message once once Sharks in the Mountains registration page opened up since I thought he might enjoy attending this year and he let me know he was moving to a townhouse and would have to let his 928 go. He asked if I was interested and told me it was an '81. Since I really only know anything about K-Jet, I said, probably not thinking it would be an L-Jet setup, but then started thinking if it was not terribly expensive that maybe it would be a nice car for my son and I to work on and become his when he started driving in a couple years (he's 13 now). You remember him, he's this guy...
So, I kept texting with him and he was sending me photos, and I said, it's really nice, but it would have to be a Euro so it had K-Jet for me to consider it. He said, it's a Euro....
I said, hmmm, for me to be interested, it would have to be a 5-speed. He said, it's a 5-speed.
I said, how much - he answered.
The car has 118k miles on it.
So, yesterday I packed up a few diagnostic tools, hooked up a trailer just in case, and went to check it out.
Did a compression test and all cylinders were within 10% of each other (138-152). Started on #1, fuel pump relay removed, coil wire disconnected, on a mostly cold engine (had run for a few seconds 2 hours before I arrived, had been started and idled for about 10 minutes the day before, but prior, hadn't been driven for a few weeks prior to that). Started on #1 and worked my way up through #8. Installed new plugs as I went. If I ended up buying it - one job out of the way, and if not, he had new plugs in his motor as a selling bonus - least I could do for him taking 2 hours our of his Sunday for me to go through the car. None of them were fouled, none wet with oil, and none wet with gas.
Next, I pressurized the cooling system reservoir. Gauge pressure was falling every so slightly, so I used an ultrasonic leak detector to see if it could hear anything in the important parts of the motor, like the heads to block junctions. Nothing. Only place it detected a leak was at my apparatus connection to the reservoir, so that had to be the location of the pressure loss.
Inspected the front ball joints - steel. Check.
Looked at the engine number type plate - M28-22. Hmmm, that's odd. So, correct me if I'm wrong, but an '81 Euro 5-speed should have had an M28-09 if a 4.5L (229 HP) or an M28-11 (300 HP) if a 4.7L 5-speed. I show the M28-22 as a Euro S 310 HP motor belonging in an '84-'86 automatic car that uses LH-Jet. Maybe someone installed the 22 motor and reused the original K-Jet as it definitely has K-Jet - completely mechanical injectors, WUR, etc. Another bonus is that the WUR and the Fuel Distributor are brand new.
Can someone tell me what the 82E06172 numbers below the engine number type mean?
Next, the test drive. Car fired right up and had a nice stable idle. Responsive to the throttle pedal, and comes right back to a stable 800 rpm idle. Went to shift into reverse - grinding. Into 1st - grinding. Pumped the clutch pedal a few times and it slipped right in and didn't have any further problems with engaging any gears after that (more on that later).
As you know, I've had a 4.5L and a 4.7L supercharged motor in my '79. Boosted, that car is very strong. I've driven it with the 4.5L motor and the supercharger removed and it's nice, but is not the same car.
This car was surprisingly strong and fast. It's almost as strong as my car with the 4.7L and the supercharger installed, so it must be that 310 HP Euro S motor. I actually drifted it in 2nd gear at a dead-end cul de sac during the test drive, without trying particularly hard. The rear tires on those Forgeline wheels are only a 255 though, so this car will be getting wider wheels and probably a 295 or 305 rear tire to keep it planted and get it to hook up back there.
The transmissions shifted like I think these old 5-speeds do, requiring a kind of slow and methodical move through the gears, and when doing that, it shifts well. It is much better than the original transmission I had in my Spyder when I bought it that caused me to install the Z06 6-speed that's in that car now, which I can shift much faster.
So, the engine is healthy and strong, has a slow OPG leak that I'll have to address at some point, depending on what the long term plan for the car is. If it stays in the family as mine or JP's, I'll pull the motor and reseal it up. I need to pull the belt covers to see what kind of condition the timing belt and pulleys are in. The previous owner had a shop inspect it, but he owned it for 11 years and did virtually nothing to it during that time. If it's a 16v Euro S motor, I think that's an interference engine (?) so I will need to inspect that belt sooner rather than later, and maybe do an engine in the car water pump and timing belt replacement and save the oil leak for a later date.
The brakes were weak, so I will need to look into those. Granted the brakes on my Spyder are Big Blacks from a GTS with slotted rotors and stainless lines, but these felt anemic for the acceleration capability of the car, so I need to look into the condition of the lines (maybe swollen) and the fluid may also be old. I'll do a bleed and maybe put on some stainless lines, then see if I need further upgrades, like to an S4 setup.
I was also really pleasantly surprised to arrive at the car and find out it's white pearl and not regular white. Those of you who have seen my widebody Cayenne Turbo S know I'm a sucker for pearl white and why I repainted that car that color, so it's really pretty. There's a repaired flaw in the rear bumper, but overall the paint and body is really nice.
The interior is a different story - pretty much needs a complete one, except for maybe the dashboard itself if I decide to keep the interior black. I'm actually thinking I want to do a complete dark brown cocoa-like colored interior. If anyone can post photos of the different browns used in 928 interiors, that might help me narrow down what color I'm looking to find a complete interior in. I'll be doing a complete interior refresh and update.
The VIN # of the car is WP0ZZZ92ZBS841366 if anyone can do a VIN search and provide any information on the car like what color it was from the factory, whether it has a limited slip and which type, if it's any sort of special edition, etc.
Now it's tucked in at it's new home above it's brother. I have Ebony & Ivory and one coupe and one cab
This guy is hoping it's his sooner rather than later.
So, based on all the info above and the condition photos, what should I have paid for this car, and what will it be worth once the interior is redone and the few mechanical things addressed. That might determine how deeply I dive into it.
guessing 84 block with the CIS euro upper (heads/cams/intake etc). Compression numbers would be higher if it were the 10.4:1 of the Euro LH engine. I've not seen this combo, but suspect it's doable and probably makes good power.
If Trans has limited slip it should have a code# 220, and should be stamped on the case I believe. Also those seats are aftermarket early Recaro's from that time period, interesting, do they work?
If Trans has limited slip it should have a code# 220, and should be stamped on the case I believe. Also those seats are aftermarket early Recaro's from that time period, interesting, do they work?
Yes, the seats do work, even the heater. You interested in them as I will not be keeping them in the car.
Well, I wasn't even looking to add another car, but this one seemed too good to be true. I had remotely helped the owner of this car get it running again since it had K-Jet and I learned a thing about that system on my recent Spyder engine swap. Shot him a message once once Sharks in the Mountains registration page opened up since I thought he might enjoy attending this year and he let me know he was moving to a townhouse and would have to let his 928 go. He asked if I was interested and told me it was an '81. Since I really only know anything about K-Jet, I said, probably not thinking it would be an L-Jet setup, but then started thinking if it was not terribly expensive that maybe it would be a nice car for my son and I to work on and become his when he started driving in a couple years (he's 13 now). You remember him, he's this guy...
So, I kept texting with him and he was sending me photos, and I said, it's really nice, but it would have to be a Euro so it had K-Jet for me to consider it. He said, it's a Euro....
I said, hmmm, for me to be interested, it would have to be a 5-speed. He said, it's a 5-speed.
I said, how much - he answered.
The car has 118k miles on it.
So, yesterday I packed up a few diagnostic tools, hooked up a trailer just in case, and went to check it out.
Did a compression test and all cylinders were within 10% of each other (138-152). Started on #1, fuel pump relay removed, coil wire disconnected, on a mostly cold engine (had run for a few seconds 2 hours before I arrived, had been started and idled for about 10 minutes the day before, but prior, hadn't been driven for a few weeks prior to that). Started on #1 and worked my way up through #8. Installed new plugs as I went. If I ended up buying it - one job out of the way, and if not, he had new plugs in his motor as a selling bonus - least I could do for him taking 2 hours our of his Sunday for me to go through the car. None of them were fouled, none wet with oil, and none wet with gas.
Next, I pressurized the cooling system reservoir. Gauge pressure was falling every so slightly, so I used an ultrasonic leak detector to see if it could hear anything in the important parts of the motor, like the heads to block junctions. Nothing. Only place it detected a leak was at my apparatus connection to the reservoir, so that had to be the location of the pressure loss.
Inspected the front ball joints - steel. Check.
Looked at the engine number type plate - M28-22. Hmmm, that's odd. So, correct me if I'm wrong, but an '81 Euro 5-speed should have had an M28-09 if a 4.5L (229 HP) or an M28-11 (300 HP) if a 4.7L 5-speed. I show the M28-22 as a Euro S 310 HP motor belonging in an '84-'86 automatic car that uses LH-Jet. Maybe someone installed the 22 motor and reused the original K-Jet as it definitely has K-Jet - completely mechanical injectors, WUR, etc. Another bonus is that the WUR and the Fuel Distributor are brand new.
Can someone tell me what the 82E06172 numbers below the engine number type mean?
Next, the test drive. Car fired right up and had a nice stable idle. Responsive to the throttle pedal, and comes right back to a stable 800 rpm idle. Went to shift into reverse - grinding. Into 1st - grinding. Pumped the clutch pedal a few times and it slipped right in and didn't have any further problems with engaging any gears after that (more on that later).
As you know, I've had a 4.5L and a 4.7L supercharged motor in my '79. Boosted, that car is very strong. I've driven it with the 4.5L motor and the supercharger removed and it's nice, but is not the same car.
This car was surprisingly strong and fast. It's almost as strong as my car with the 4.7L and the supercharger installed, so it must be that 310 HP Euro S motor. I actually drifted it in 2nd gear at a dead-end cul de sac during the test drive, without trying particularly hard. The rear tires on those Forgeline wheels are only a 255 though, so this car will be getting wider wheels and probably a 295 or 305 rear tire to keep it planted and get it to hook up back there.
The transmissions shifted like I think these old 5-speeds do, requiring a kind of slow and methodical move through the gears, and when doing that, it shifts well. It is much better than the original transmission I had in my Spyder when I bought it that caused me to install the Z06 6-speed that's in that car now, which I can shift much faster.
So, the engine is healthy and strong, has a slow OPG leak that I'll have to address at some point, depending on what the long term plan for the car is. If it stays in the family as mine or JP's, I'll pull the motor and reseal it up. I need to pull the belt covers to see what kind of condition the timing belt and pulleys are in. The previous owner had a shop inspect it, but he owned it for 11 years and did virtually nothing to it during that time. If it's a 16v Euro S motor, I think that's an interference engine (?) so I will need to inspect that belt sooner rather than later, and maybe do an engine in the car water pump and timing belt replacement and save the oil leak for a later date.
The brakes were weak, so I will need to look into those. Granted the brakes on my Spyder are Big Blacks from a GTS with slotted rotors and stainless lines, but these felt anemic for the acceleration capability of the car, so I need to look into the condition of the lines (maybe swollen) and the fluid may also be old. I'll do a bleed and maybe put on some stainless lines, then see if I need further upgrades, like to an S4 setup.
I was also really pleasantly surprised to arrive at the car and find out it's white pearl and not regular white. Those of you who have seen my widebody Cayenne Turbo S know I'm a sucker for pearl white and why I repainted that car that color, so it's really pretty. There's a repaired flaw in the rear bumper, but overall the paint and body is really nice.
The interior is a different story - pretty much needs a complete one, except for maybe the dashboard itself if I decide to keep the interior black. I'm actually thinking I want to do a complete dark brown cocoa-like colored interior. If anyone can post photos of the different browns used in 928 interiors, that might help me narrow down what color I'm looking to find a complete interior in. I'll be doing a complete interior refresh and update.
The VIN # of the car is WP0ZZZ92ZBS841366 if anyone can do a VIN search and provide any information on the car like what color it was from the factory, whether it has a limited slip and which type, if it's any sort of special edition, etc.
Now it's tucked in at it's new home above it's brother. I have Ebony & Ivory and one coupe and one cab
This guy is hoping it's his sooner rather than later.
So, based on all the info above and the condition photos, what should I have paid for this car, and what will it be worth once the interior is redone and the few mechanical things addressed. That might determine how deeply I dive into it.
Thanks.
Nice find!
And it doesn't matter what it cost or what you spend...cars are rarely a good investment.
Do you like it?
That's all that matters....
From the reflection on the hood, it appears there is a dual exhaust system. Is this standard for this model?
Good eye. Didn't realize how shiny the black car was under the lift lights. The new one has curvy headers, like
the MSDS style, then cat delete and maybe some type of custom rear dual exhaust with a resonator on each pipe. I think the PO told me it was aliminum, but haven't checked that yet. It sounds really good - better than my Spyder with round tube manifolds, Y-pipe, and a Borla.
And it doesn't matter what it cost or what you spend...cars are rarely a good investment.
Do you like it?
That's all that matters....
I do, but I think this one might have been an exceptionally good deal, as I've seen the Euro engines alone sell for a few thousand dollars, the cams and heads for a couple grand, etc so just curious what one should sell for. If I end up keeping it long term, then I agree, I don't care what it's worth, although I do need to establish an accurate value for the Agreed Value policy I have all my cars under, so throw out some numbers. Also, if in nice shape its a $25-$30k car I will be more inclined to go deeper into the refurbishing process than Iif it's a $15k car when I'm done.
Greg, I'm going to need some stuff from you - slave cylinder flex line, maybe braided stainless fuel lines and new OPG if I'm keeping it long term.
Very nice.
The M28/22 motor is the 84-86 S2 Euro Twin Dizzie motor for the automatics.
So it's been swapped at some point.
I'm going to guess that it was an early 84 because the numbers are kind of low for a 10.4:1 compression ratio.
Guessing that the K-Jet & green wire ignition were kept on from the original motor. Only one distributor, right? Swapping over the twin dizzie setup would have to include tehe EZF computer too. That would be rather involved.
No clue how to tell if the intake, heads, cams, ect were from the /22 motor or the original /11.
Non-original motor & trashed interior are going to drop the value some, but a good running CIS Euro S has a fair amount of value no matter what shape the rest of its in.
Since you asked, $10k-$15k depending.
I'm thinking Joe and Tom have nailed it. The 22 block was reused with the 11 injection and electronics since it only has a single distributor. For me personally, it's the ideal setup as it's just like my other one with no electrics in the engine management system and a bunch of new K-Jet parts.
Took some additional pics from underneath tonight. Better pics of the exhaust. I also now know why the voltage was reading low on the dash gauge - LOL. Even has a belly pan.
01-25-2021, 02:29 PM
Added an '81 Euro 5-speed
