View Poll Results: For only a head gasket replacement only on a 16v and no other service work, would you
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Blown/Damaged Head Gasket?
#271
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From: Clemson, SC
So, I put a few quarts of oil into the pan, a filter on, and spun up the oil filter with a drill. Looking in through the water bridge assembly hole, oil is flowing out of the crankshaft bearings.
Unfortunately oil is also seeping from the bottom of the head gaskets on cylinders 1,5, and 6.
What do I do now? I can check the tension of the top head bolts, but where are the bottom ones and will tightening them resolve the issue or do the heads need to come off and new gaskets be installed, where I have to undo a bunch of what I've already done?
Any chance these gaskets will swell back up and reseal themselves?
Unfortunately oil is also seeping from the bottom of the head gaskets on cylinders 1,5, and 6.
What do I do now? I can check the tension of the top head bolts, but where are the bottom ones and will tightening them resolve the issue or do the heads need to come off and new gaskets be installed, where I have to undo a bunch of what I've already done?
Any chance these gaskets will swell back up and reseal themselves?
#272
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From: Clemson, SC
Previous post might be a false alarm. I wiped off what I saw in those pictures and spun the pump a good bit more and there is no new evidence of oil there.
I'm now thinking that maybe when the motor was upside down and I was working on the pan that some oil may have settled there and that's what I saw when I was looking for leaks. I'll spin it a few more times to see if there's any new evidence of oil there, but don't see any on either side now.
🤞
I'm now thinking that maybe when the motor was upside down and I was working on the pan that some oil may have settled there and that's what I saw when I was looking for leaks. I'll spin it a few more times to see if there's any new evidence of oil there, but don't see any on either side now.
🤞
#273
Previous post might be a false alarm. I wiped off what I saw in those pictures and spun the pump a good bit more and there is no new evidence of oil there.
I'm now thinking that maybe when the motor was upside down and I was working on the pan that some oil may have settled there and that's what I saw when I was looking for leaks. I'll spin it a few more times to see if there's any new evidence of oil there, but don't see any on either side now.
🤞
I'm now thinking that maybe when the motor was upside down and I was working on the pan that some oil may have settled there and that's what I saw when I was looking for leaks. I'll spin it a few more times to see if there's any new evidence of oil there, but don't see any on either side now.
🤞
You need to spin the pump enough to build up pressure to check for leaks, BTW.
#274
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From: Clemson, SC
I spun it a bunch more and didn't see any more oil in any of those areas, or any others - phew!
So I proceeded with the timing belt and tensioner installation.
Belt on - everything at TDC and aligned
Turned the motor over 4 revolutions then took these pics.
5-8
1-4
Distributor
Harmonic Balancer
Then had an expert help me by turning the motor over 2 more times and checked all the marks again. Looked just like the above.
X
So we put the covers on.
Motor is going back into the car in the morning and then I'll start reassembling all the accessories.
Above timing alignment photos are good, right?
So I proceeded with the timing belt and tensioner installation.
Belt on - everything at TDC and aligned
Turned the motor over 4 revolutions then took these pics.
5-8
1-4
Distributor
Harmonic Balancer
Then had an expert help me by turning the motor over 2 more times and checked all the marks again. Looked just like the above.
X
So we put the covers on.
Motor is going back into the car in the morning and then I'll start reassembling all the accessories.
Above timing alignment photos are good, right?
#275
With the crank at TDC, the cam marks look perfect. I'm less confident about the distributor, my understanding is the rotor should point straight forward. I think you're a distributor gear tooth or two behind. But maybe it's different for L-jet motors, I don't know.
#277
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There's a mark on the rim of the distributor that doesn't show in the photo - the one that shows is a scratch. The rotor points right at that mark you can't see with the crank at TDC. The rotor should point directly at the #1 contact with the crank at TDC, correct?
#280
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From: Clemson, SC
Productive day....
Also checked, and the starter will bolt up fine without any clearance issues with the oil pan studs
- Motor is back in
- Clutch is in, lubed, torqued, spacer pins removed, lower bell housing back on
- Most heat shields are back on
- Installed Hans' oil control baffle, the oil fill assembly, and the oil return tube
- Installed the front and rear water bridges
- Installed Carl's low temp thermostat
- Installed new fuel injectors, seals, and tension rings into the spider legs today.
Also checked, and the starter will bolt up fine without any clearance issues with the oil pan studs
#281
That is some serious progress, good work.
I think the starter is grounded through the mating surface of the lower bellhousing cover. I'm not sure if the bolts will be able to pass enough current. If you have a weak or no crank situation I will bet that is why and the powder coating will have to be sanded off that area.
I think the starter is grounded through the mating surface of the lower bellhousing cover. I'm not sure if the bolts will be able to pass enough current. If you have a weak or no crank situation I will bet that is why and the powder coating will have to be sanded off that area.
#284
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That is some serious progress, good work.
I think the starter is grounded through the mating surface of the lower bellhousing cover. I'm not sure if the bolts will be able to pass enough current. If you have a weak or no crank situation I will bet that is why and the powder coating will have to be sanded off that area.
I think the starter is grounded through the mating surface of the lower bellhousing cover. I'm not sure if the bolts will be able to pass enough current. If you have a weak or no crank situation I will bet that is why and the powder coating will have to be sanded off that area.
#285
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From: Clemson, SC
Yes, it came out with the bellhousing on - figured it would go back in the same way. Just the bellhousing though - I installed the clutch again from underneath. With my Z06 torque tube, there is virtually no space between the torque tube and upper bell housing and am not sure I would have been able to get it attached with the alignment pins the other way.
I also had the motor brackets installed on the mounts already so once the motor was in place, fattened it with the 4 long bolts from underneath.
The leveler on the hoist helps a lot, but it would have been better if I had set the chains longer and had the leveler handle on the hoist side rather than the car side.