Wilson's thread
#361
Rennlist Member
Re: fuel pump portion of DME relay not activating
The 12v for that relay stage is actually provided by the battery, and is only available once the DME/injector stage (1st stage) closes. So check #1 is to see if the DME/fuel injectors are getting 12v when you have the key in run position. If they aren't the problem could be the ignition switch, the relay itself, or a bad ground.
Once the DME is alive, it provides a ground to pin 85b of the relay when it detects that engine is spinning at 200 RPM or more. If that pin isn't grounded during cranking, the problem is with the speed sensor or the DME itself, potentially the wiring in between.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/graphic...-diagram-1.gif
The 12v for that relay stage is actually provided by the battery, and is only available once the DME/injector stage (1st stage) closes. So check #1 is to see if the DME/fuel injectors are getting 12v when you have the key in run position. If they aren't the problem could be the ignition switch, the relay itself, or a bad ground.
Once the DME is alive, it provides a ground to pin 85b of the relay when it detects that engine is spinning at 200 RPM or more. If that pin isn't grounded during cranking, the problem is with the speed sensor or the DME itself, potentially the wiring in between.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/graphic...-diagram-1.gif
#362
Professional Hoon
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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cool build mate.
I'll give you some suggestions if i may.
For a piggyback. I use to have a LINK AFM installed in mine. I worked my way around using it and turned out to be a good little system. yes it's out dated but very simple to use. It did fine on my turbo but it wasn't the best. But i think for an N/A it'll perform well. Either can run it in replacement mode (delete AFM) or even try to put your own MAF on it.
you already have a wideband so tuning would be very easy. you can do it yourself but easier to do with a mate while your driving.
and if you get the tuner pro. http://www.roguetuning.com/diy_free_944_tuning_tools you can adjust your timing also.
AFM LINK - https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-afm-link.html
That's what it is. should be able to get one cheap. You need the hand controller. the serial link is useful too for logging and adjusting tune.
I'll give you some suggestions if i may.
For a piggyback. I use to have a LINK AFM installed in mine. I worked my way around using it and turned out to be a good little system. yes it's out dated but very simple to use. It did fine on my turbo but it wasn't the best. But i think for an N/A it'll perform well. Either can run it in replacement mode (delete AFM) or even try to put your own MAF on it.
you already have a wideband so tuning would be very easy. you can do it yourself but easier to do with a mate while your driving.
and if you get the tuner pro. http://www.roguetuning.com/diy_free_944_tuning_tools you can adjust your timing also.
AFM LINK - https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-afm-link.html
That's what it is. should be able to get one cheap. You need the hand controller. the serial link is useful too for logging and adjusting tune.
#363
Rennlist Member
For $1000 you should be able to easily get in bed with a MegaSquirt, maybe even under $800 since you have the wideband. The tuning isn't a handheld Gameboy looking thing, you can use your laptop and it has nice tables. Plus I'll send you a good tune set up for a mild cam
#364
Race Car
Thread Starter
Armed with a home made breakout harness and the diagram that Michael gave me I sought out to find the weak link in the starting system. It started twice & then from there only cranked, no start.
Then I observed something that has bugged me but been a low priority: my ign switch has never been aligned straight... it's always been tilted & seems even worse since my last reinstall of the dash.
So I loosened the dash mounting bolts & tried yanking it downward. Not going to happen. The Haynes manual is for early 944 cars and mine is late. How the heck can I properly align the ign switch on the steering column?
The car started 10-11 times straight... couldn't get it to fail with the dash overlay removed, so it must have been binding something.
Weirdness.
Anyone know how to re-align the switch?
Then I observed something that has bugged me but been a low priority: my ign switch has never been aligned straight... it's always been tilted & seems even worse since my last reinstall of the dash.
So I loosened the dash mounting bolts & tried yanking it downward. Not going to happen. The Haynes manual is for early 944 cars and mine is late. How the heck can I properly align the ign switch on the steering column?
The car started 10-11 times straight... couldn't get it to fail with the dash overlay removed, so it must have been binding something.
Weirdness.
Anyone know how to re-align the switch?
#365
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Lexington, KY
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When I had my car apart, I noticed the ignition switch is mounted to the steering wheel lock assembly. On my particular car, someone had started to remove it for some reason, and the bolts had been drilled through. It was loose and would not tighten up, so the ignition switch would move up and down quite a bit. I finished drilling out the bolts and fixed it properly, then I just kinda eye balled it and tightened everything back up, and haven't had any problems yet.
#366
Rennlist Member
Armed with a home made breakout harness and the diagram that Michael gave me I sought out to find the weak link in the starting system. It started twice & then from there only cranked, no start.
Then I observed something that has bugged me but been a low priority: my ign switch has never been aligned straight... it's always been tilted & seems even worse since my last reinstall of the dash.
So I loosened the dash mounting bolts & tried yanking it downward. Not going to happen. The Haynes manual is for early 944 cars and mine is late. How the heck can I properly align the ign switch on the steering column?
The car started 10-11 times straight... couldn't get it to fail with the dash overlay removed, so it must have been binding something.
Weirdness.
Anyone know how to re-align the switch?
Then I observed something that has bugged me but been a low priority: my ign switch has never been aligned straight... it's always been tilted & seems even worse since my last reinstall of the dash.
So I loosened the dash mounting bolts & tried yanking it downward. Not going to happen. The Haynes manual is for early 944 cars and mine is late. How the heck can I properly align the ign switch on the steering column?
The car started 10-11 times straight... couldn't get it to fail with the dash overlay removed, so it must have been binding something.
Weirdness.
Anyone know how to re-align the switch?
#368
Race Car
Thread Starter
OK, I *think* I have a temporary solution to the key binding, will discuss at a later point.
DOORS/WINDOWS. I have lusted for what is below for the longest time... but I fear wind noise... I just cant see this being a quiet enough solution for a daily driver. Am I wrong?
DOORS/WINDOWS. I have lusted for what is below for the longest time... but I fear wind noise... I just cant see this being a quiet enough solution for a daily driver. Am I wrong?
#369
Rennlist Member
OK, I *think* I have a temporary solution to the key binding, will discuss at a later point. DOORS/WINDOWS. I have lusted for what is below for the longest time... but I fear wind noise... I just cant see this being a quiet enough solution for a daily driver. Am I wrong?
#373
Race Car
Thread Starter
Fabricated the "regulator" by removing the steel channel at the bottom of the window. Needed a heat gun, then used a sawzall to shorten the channel (to save weight). Then drilled a single hole in the channel & flipped the channel around for a flush mounting for the belt.
#374
Race Car
Thread Starter
Found using a imperial nut acted as a "captured nut" in the lower channel section so install/removal is easy. Also used a big fender washer to ensure durability. Since this was a pants belt, I cut the buckle off & used the thicker part of the belt to be this mounting section... but do regret not buying a thicker belt to add durability & prevent stretch.
#375
Rennlist Member
Id use angle grinder if had to do it again.