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Completely disconnected harness from the engine side in anticipation of a harness swap made necessary by a small harness fire last year. Everything on the engine side is now wrapped in a tidy bundle until I can carve out some more time to get back to it.
Next effort will be to disconnect everything under the dash and pull the snorkel through from the engine side. Will be a bit of a tedious job as I’ll need to disconnect all of the wires associated with the M-Tune and Zeitronix ZT-2 installations, only to re-install those mods when the new harness goes in.
Replaced rear seal on hatch, replace A/C relay, replaced broken heater slide handle as well as release handle for seat back. Slowly getting it back into shape now that it is my daily driver.
I think that KVDR meant that he clamped off several vacuum lines to see if there was a leakage issue..You are right..mice generally don't "clamp " on anything unless they are very old and have no teeth! LOL!
FYI, for those having trouble with AC relays. You can reheat the solder joints and bring them back to life. My AC stopped working 3 or 4 years ago, reflowed all the joints, no troubles since. Still ice cold after 25 years, never even had a recharge.
Good to know...may as well see if I can restore it and keep it as a spare.
Originally Posted by vandal968
FYI, for those having trouble with AC relays. You can reheat the solder joints and bring them back to life. My AC stopped working 3 or 4 years ago, reflowed all the joints, no troubles since. Still ice cold after 25 years, never even had a recharge.
Bureau13,
If doing this, it works best if you apply flux before re-heating the joints. When I reheated the first time, I didn't do this, no result. An EE friend of mine recommended fluxing and doing it again. I did, and 3 or 4 of the joints barfed out little black ***** of corrosion and everything started working again. A syringe of electronics flux is like $2 on eBay. Don't use any other type of flux, it will corrode and destroy the board.
Are the AC relays expensive or difficult to find?
Vandal 968 - Wow! 25 years!
Not especially, but why waste parts, they aren't making them anymore. Also, if you buy one from eBay or a junkyard, who knows if it works or not. Reheating the joints is 15 minutes with a soldering iron, even less if you have a hot-air reflow station. I did try the same trick on my cruise control computer without success, need to buy one of those....
BTW, that fan "relay" isn't really a relay it's a full-on circuit board with a couple of relays. This is what's inside the can:
Yikes...I have no idea why it's so complicated. The schematic I had showed what appeared to be a simple relay coil with two switches. God only knows what that thing is doing lol...
Just out of curiosity, how do you know that your AC relay is bad? I don't see any info about that at all on Clark's Garage. I'm wondering if that is my issue with the AC not working.
What were the symptoms that told you it was the relay and not something else?
In my case, the AC worked great when the engine was cold, but if I drove around for a while then parked it somewhere hot, like in direct-sunlight and then came back out to the car 20 mins later I had no AC. The fan worked, but the compressor did not kick on. If I drove around for a while the compressor would occasionally start working again, but usually not. If I didn't stop and park, the AC never failed. Park it overnight, AC would be fine the next day until it was hot and then parked in the blazing sun again.
Discovered my brake lights weren't working. Started with the usual: cleaned the grounds, gave the sockets a quick dremel and, of course, checked the light bulbs. Next I looked for power at the brake light switch. Finding none, it dawned on me that the switch was merely an interrupter and jumper-ed the socket. Bingo! So it was out with the old and in with a new one. Surprisingly, I found it easy to remove the cotter pinned pivot just above the switch. Perhaps there's hope for my inner mechanic aspirations after all.
Installed my new stainless steel "jp dansk muffler" and a flex pipe with interlock inner liner. The sound of the exhaust is still great.
AND, no doubt about that. You definitely notice the reduction of the vibration generated by the engine, due to the flex pipe. Highly recommended
07-07-2018, 05:24 PM
