Severian

I reinstalled the rear panel that I covered in carbon fiber.






It was a good learning experience, now I have to finish the passengers side.

morghen

that looks pretty cool

alfonso944

great job! looks awesome

Ish_944

What can be done to a fuel rail with a hair crack (as I can't see exactly where petrol was seeping through)?
Is it made of copper alloy? Would some soldering be an adequate fix?

Cheers for any input!

Bloody car screws me over 2 weeks before my wedding.

KVDR

The fuel rail is steel. Coloring is due to the factory cadmium electroplating.

You should be able to have it welded, but it might be easier to find a used one.

Cyberpunky

That looks awesome.

I have done a bit of overlay stuff with carbon fibre and used F/G finishing resin. Is that what you used ?
TIA

Ashman

New oil pressure sensor - Old one was rusted and leaking badly
New plugs, wires, distributor, rotor
New master cylinder, slave cylinder, and hard/soft line for clutch
Oil change to 20W-50 VR-1

Changing out the clutch cylinders made a TON of difference. The master had a small trickle leak and I didn't realize how much of a difference it would make, but the car is so much more positive about when the clutch engages with the new cylinders and line.

dmjames

Finally got everything back together and on the road! Venturi delete, all-new vacuum lines, replaced a handful of sketchy-looking coolant lines, new spark plugs...

So now the car idles better, revs quicker, and seems to build boost a bit faster as well. The true test, though, is going to be whether it'll pass emissions now that lots of things are working better, or if I'm going to have to bite the bullet and swap in new (non-crap) chips too...

Ish_944

Do not weld your fuel rail, it doesn't work. Maybe solder it with copper, that could fill small holes/pores.

I'm trying a two-component metal glue tomorrow. I hope that will last a few thousand kilometers while I get a replacement unit.

Tiger03447

You might try reheating the affected seam with a hot air gun at about 12-1500 degrees..Have some acid core solder standing by along with some flux. If you can plug the holes with stoppers you might try running a vacuum check on the rail as leak check. Dropping of the gauge will confirm it you fixed it or not. OR Immerse it in a tub of water...and try putting air pressure to it...that might help identify where the leak really is.

Tiger03447

I spent about 21/2 hours today, getting rel friendly with brake cleaner and ancient grease on the brown (now) conduits for the electrical cables in the engine bay. Also used BC to help get rid of 30 year old mung, and crap nesting in hard to get places. Next..more paint...in the engine bay.

V2Rocket

If I had a cracked rail and couldn't just get another one, I'd take it to a radiator shop and have the guy braze it back together and leak test.

Tiger03447

+1 on what v2 said

ealoken

Got a nice used crank in the mail.

So might get the engine done to 2018.

Ish_944

I ended up with a 2-compnent fluid metal glue. Seems to work fine, the car ran up to 30 mins without any leaks!

Well, hopefully it'll last a 1000 miles, that's all I need from it. After that I'll be putting on another one.