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drove it ~300 miles this weekend, changed the oil for the first time since march, and invented some new experimental motor mounts...more info on these to come once i install them, maybe in a few weeks. i'm sure someone will recognize what these parts are though...
Yessir! The 5.3 engine these coils came from is specced at 0.060 gap. A GM TSB calls for 0.040 so I'm going to try 0.045 and see how it runs. Right now they're at 0.032 which is factory 944 spec. The factory coil/dizzy actually has the spark jumping 2 gaps, so there's less energy available. Currently, the only thing between my coils and plugs are MSD 8.5mm wires averaging 40 ohms each.
those motor mounts look heavy duty all right..Just finished getting the 4 TT "wheels" with all new parts therein, finished. Next..to install them in the TT and finish that sub-project..Progress by increments., but progress still!
After experimenting, 0.040" seems to be the best gap for my LS1 CNP setup. 0.045" pulls about the same but the motor starts quicker with lower gaps (usually it's the other way around...maybe it's in my head). Running NGK BPR5ES plugs, which are resistive.
While I have the transmission out of the car, I decided to drain the gear oil, clean the internal magnets, reseal it with new rear plug, side seals, and plate reinstall. All went well until I went to remove the fill plug. With a friend to hold the trans, and using about a 4+ ft long breaker bar, we managed to mostly strip out the 17 mm bit hole on the plug. So we tried heating the case with a propane torch and then tried the breaker bar again. No luck.. stripped out the rest of the plug insides. So, with the side plate off, ring and pinion exposed, it was finally necessary to Dremel out the fill plug. Cleaning operations of the inside of the case, main pinion shaft bearing, ring gear, and any other nefarious spots are ensuing with magnetic probes, and soon to be followed with multiple serious solvent rinses of the R&P section of the case along with the main pinion bearing. Anyone have a source for magnetic drain and fill plugs? I plan to clean and install the trans. Refill with oil, jack up the car and allow it to idle with no load while in gear to circulate the oil, and very hopefully, allow all the magnets to catch any more micogrit. This procedure may have to be repeated more than once.
Had a weird issue, after a drive I turned off the motor and the car stayed running - key out of the ignition. I kind of chuckled, first time that ever happened. It has to be the ignition switch, I have it powering a custom relay panel that powers the ECU/coils/fuel pump. Good thing I have a spare on hand. This will be the 4th time I've had to replace it because of an internal fault in 3 years... I thought moving the ignition system onto its own relay would help but apparently not.
those VAG parts bin ignition switches where actually recalled up to 1990 on the audis. old inline injection Mercedes diesels wont shut off without vacuum so yeah that gets funny when they wont shut off....at least there is a stop lever on the rack.
received a wheel bearing kit in the mail and got greasy last night. preheated the oven to threefidy, ground down the old races and went to town. used about 70 grams of the green benz stuff.
the inboard races suffered a bit when the car was shipped. pecker tracked pretty badly.
replaced the suck line to the power steering pump as it would leave a red dime size spot on the floor once a week...when I went to tighten the clamp at the reservoir, it failed which might have been the issue.
replaced the passenger side tie rod assembly but have yet to come up with a method to peen the locking tab. maybe vise grips and a ball bearing so it is pretty.
need rotors...pads...the clear is lifting off the calipers. going to run it until the pad light comes on. (soon)
the replacement ball joint boot is lifting off with the suspension dropped on the passenger side.
11-09-2015, 01:46 PM
