Maxem

Yes I agree Macca, A lot is going to look new but I am looking forward to those parts ageing nicely so they fit in with the parts that went back on unrestored.

Deep six Fuchs:
I'm not sure that there is an easy way to paint these. The deep part of the sixes make masking in there a pain. A bit easier if you don't mind masking out a bit further for a bit of black paint on the lip but of all the pictures I've seen so far of deep sixes, I prefer the entire lip unpainted. The dipping or flooding method runs black paint out into the lip so I don't favour this method.
What I'm experimenting with is at least getting a good line around the lip by flooding just a small part right at the bottom of the florets.
Block off the valve hole and pour in some paint. Here is some etch primer making its way around the rim and self levelling to create a good line. Pop the masking tape at the valve hole and let it drain. Follow this up with black and then I have a nice and straight line to mask to for the spray job for the balance of the blackening.

Looking for an easy way to mask the florets too. I've considered masking the lip up to the new paint line then flooding the total wheel with the paint level high enough to do the florets properly but not sure how well the masking tape will keep paint off the lip whilst submerged.

Jherriott

What if you use Booth Coat instead of masking tape?

http://www.binks.com/products/consum...oth-coat-white

It's like liquid latex rubber. Originally for protecting spray booths from layers of over-spray. I have used it for many masking jobs that it was not intended for

Lots of companies make versions of this product. 3M etc.

Jase.

tcsracing1

what is the perfered look for deep 6" on a long hood? Painted? polished? etc?

Maxem

Hi Jase,
That stuff looks interesting - I've not seen that before. Looks a bit like plastidip, which I have some of.
Dave.

Maxem

I don't know. I don't really even know what constituted the factory finish. Bright Anodising I think then the black out.
I've gone slightly rustic natural, which could be a pain to keep up but I quite like it. Not so perfect

tcsracing1

i am shopping for 6" hearts. I have come across somw highly polished examples.
Not sure how i feel about it.

Maxem

Yeah, too blingy. Nothing a couple of hours with some wet and dry and scotchbrite pads wouldn't fix

Maxem

I layed down a sheet of cling film then made a fibreglass plug. This thing wil be trimmed down to the masking line that I want then used in each of the 5 areas on a wheel as a guide to get a consistent masking tape line across them all.

Maxem

Back to the dash. I had pretty much written these things off as well past their best. What appeared to be tarnished finish on the polished edges was just some overspray, sealant and contact adhesive. Stripped the basketweave off and gave them a good clean with acetone and they have come right back to almost new. I will now make these up with the leather inlays as well as the other custom set I made earlier and see which set will go through to being fitted.

Amber Gramps

I tried everything. Wanted something reminiscent of the RSR finish. Tried polishing, then sandblasting, then media-blasting, then scotch bright, and just could not get a consistent repeatable finish on the lip of the rim. Finally ordered a "Silbur" rattle can from Pelican. Wurth also has a "Silbur" rattle can. A local restoration shop told me that the factory race teams needed the wheels to be "fixable" between races. What is easier than grabbing a can and spraying? Had tires installed and wheels have come on and off many times and driven thousands of miles and nobody is the wiser.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...r-germany.html

Maxem

Thanks for the tip. One wheel is done but I'm not happy with the finish. The top coat seems to re-liven the etch primer and turns it back to liquid which then goes a mottley grey. Something isn't compatible. More sanding now I guess.
Happy with the high tide method of getting a good line around the rim. Works great.

Maxem

Pretty happy with this lot.

Macca

Dave. What was the reason for not running with your dimpled brown custom leather on these parts? Just needed contrast?

Raven 666

Nice work Mate they look really good ...........

Maxem

Good question. The dash top, door tops, side panel tops and back shelf all remain black. So I figured that the dash in its entirety should keep this going. I've made another set of dash plates and will work out a non invasive way to de mount these ones so occasional change outs are possible. I was all guns blazing on a CNC'd metal insert with lots of small holes and laser etched control names in German but as I get further into this I'm starting to realise that there was an awfull lot of thought put into the dash by the design team and they got it just right for the times.