'72 911T Hot Rod Build
#526
Trucker
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Who restored your brake calipers please? I need to get mine shipped out soon.
(and my gages will be going to Palo Alto... I used to do business with the father and now the son. I guess I am getting older!)
(and my gages will be going to Palo Alto... I used to do business with the father and now the son. I guess I am getting older!)
#527
Drifting
Thread Starter
I used PMB Performance to restore my calipers Eric is the guy when it comes to restoring these things. He restored both my front S calipers and rear M calipers. S calipers take quite a bit of time so be prepared for him to have those for many weeks. I upgraded the pistons in the S calipers as well. Here are some shots of my S calipers to show Eric's work.
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Igooz (12-22-2019)
#528
+1 for PMB. I had my calipers restored by them and they came back looking like new (I assume they looked like new; I was only ten and didn’t have my 911 when it was new!). Was very happy with the service.
#529
Drifting
Thread Starter
Making a trip to Ollie's with motor parts for machine work.
Here is what I am asking Ollie's to do:
Connecting Rods:
1) Magna Flux
2) Rebuild with new bushings
3) Balance the set
Crankshaft:
1) Magna Flux
2) Micropolish/Grind rods/mains
3) Balance
Flywheel:
1) Reface
2) Balance
Rocker Arms and Shafts:
1) Regrind
2) Rebush
3) Polish
Cam Towers:
1) Remove and clean oil tube
2) Media tumble, clean and hot tank
Chain Housings and covers:
1) Media tumble, clean and hot tank
2) Should not need fly cut, but they will have them just in case
Case:
1) Media tumble, hot tank, R-R oil plugs, clean oil galleys and squirters
2) Inspection/Check align bore
3) Align bore mains as needed
4) Surface case halves as needed
6) Install case savers
7) R&R Oil squirters
8) Oil By-Pass Modification
Not bringing the heads as I am still debating what I am doing. I will be purchasing new pistons, cylinders and camshafts.
Here are the parts boxed up. Will they fit in the trunk of my daily driver?!
Yep, a Porsche motor will fit in the trunk!
Here is what I am asking Ollie's to do:
Connecting Rods:
1) Magna Flux
2) Rebuild with new bushings
3) Balance the set
Crankshaft:
1) Magna Flux
2) Micropolish/Grind rods/mains
3) Balance
Flywheel:
1) Reface
2) Balance
Rocker Arms and Shafts:
1) Regrind
2) Rebush
3) Polish
Cam Towers:
1) Remove and clean oil tube
2) Media tumble, clean and hot tank
Chain Housings and covers:
1) Media tumble, clean and hot tank
2) Should not need fly cut, but they will have them just in case
Case:
1) Media tumble, hot tank, R-R oil plugs, clean oil galleys and squirters
2) Inspection/Check align bore
3) Align bore mains as needed
4) Surface case halves as needed
6) Install case savers
7) R&R Oil squirters
8) Oil By-Pass Modification
Not bringing the heads as I am still debating what I am doing. I will be purchasing new pistons, cylinders and camshafts.
Here are the parts boxed up. Will they fit in the trunk of my daily driver?!
Yep, a Porsche motor will fit in the trunk!
#530
Drifting
Thread Starter
Some more parts arrived.
Steel S front bumper. I decided not to go with Fiberglass on my car, instead preferring Aluminum where I could. Unfortunately I could not find an aluminum front bumper, so steel it is (let me know if anyone knows of a company that makes one in Al). It weighs about 23lbs. I am seriously debating replacing my steel hood with an aluminum one since they make those. This would save almost 20 pounds - but at a steep price.
Found a nice used aluminum license panel. This thing is stupid light. The steel panel weighs about 5.5lbs where this weighs 1.8! I am sure the painter is going to have challenges prepping these aluminum panels as they will be very sensitive to pressure.
I already have the aluminum decklid and am purchasing aluminum rear bumper guards to replace the stock steel guards. This all adds up to nice weight savings off the butt of the car:
- decklid saves ~10lbs
- license panel saves ~4lbs
- bumper guards save ~ 3lbs
Total weight savings = 17lbs off the butt
I will save another ~5lbs off the butt with the muffler..
At this point, I have calculated ~175lbs in weight savings with everything I have done or plan to do. At this rate, my car will be very similar to the '73 RS Lightweight - power to weight will be very close to the same. Should provide a very nice, balanced car with a great period throwback feel to it.
Steel S front bumper. I decided not to go with Fiberglass on my car, instead preferring Aluminum where I could. Unfortunately I could not find an aluminum front bumper, so steel it is (let me know if anyone knows of a company that makes one in Al). It weighs about 23lbs. I am seriously debating replacing my steel hood with an aluminum one since they make those. This would save almost 20 pounds - but at a steep price.
Found a nice used aluminum license panel. This thing is stupid light. The steel panel weighs about 5.5lbs where this weighs 1.8! I am sure the painter is going to have challenges prepping these aluminum panels as they will be very sensitive to pressure.
I already have the aluminum decklid and am purchasing aluminum rear bumper guards to replace the stock steel guards. This all adds up to nice weight savings off the butt of the car:
- decklid saves ~10lbs
- license panel saves ~4lbs
- bumper guards save ~ 3lbs
Total weight savings = 17lbs off the butt
I will save another ~5lbs off the butt with the muffler..
At this point, I have calculated ~175lbs in weight savings with everything I have done or plan to do. At this rate, my car will be very similar to the '73 RS Lightweight - power to weight will be very close to the same. Should provide a very nice, balanced car with a great period throwback feel to it.
Last edited by myflat6; 12-24-2019 at 07:21 PM.
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Raven 666 (12-24-2019)
#531
Rennlist Member
Saving weight on these things can become an addiction. And it can get very expensive fast. Mine weight just over 2200 but i didn’t do much to it... the front s bumper is glass...
my 964 taking off nearly 400 lbs while adding a welded cage and keeping ac wasn’t easy.
my 964 taking off nearly 400 lbs while adding a welded cage and keeping ac wasn’t easy.
#532
Drifting
Thread Starter
2200 pounds is pretty darn good. The earlier the car, the lighter (for the most part). Your '71 stock weight is close to 70 pounds lighter than my '72 stock weight to start with. From what I have read, taking 200lbs off the early cars is easy, then up to 300 is doable, then after that it is very hard. I am definitely balancing originality and performance as much as I can. Shaving close to 200lbs is the goal. I will post my weight loss summary at a future date.
That is very impressive work on your 964!!
That is very impressive work on your 964!!
#533
it gets hard when no one makes lightwt. parts:
- engine console is very heavy
- tail lights are too (R type is lighter but I don't like that look) - it would be easy to make some plastic surrounds for LEDs and use the original lenses but no one has them
- no Ti mufflers available
- a good trick would be a lexan back glass with a glass coating for scratch resistance - Corvette had or has this but nothing for our old cars
- engine console is very heavy
- tail lights are too (R type is lighter but I don't like that look) - it would be easy to make some plastic surrounds for LEDs and use the original lenses but no one has them
- no Ti mufflers available
- a good trick would be a lexan back glass with a glass coating for scratch resistance - Corvette had or has this but nothing for our old cars
#534
Burning Brakes
Can you further explain "engine console"?
I have a 70T. I swear somewhere I have the corner balancing sheet that shows 2190, and keep thinking about weight, but ....
What would you consider the easy things to change?
I have a 70T. I swear somewhere I have the corner balancing sheet that shows 2190, and keep thinking about weight, but ....
What would you consider the easy things to change?
#535
the engine carrier bar mounts to the console, and the fan belt runs inside it - it is heavy steel; some have drilled it to save 1/2 lb. or os but it really needs to be made of an Al spider or something (IIRC, the 964 or 993 does this)
easy things to do are to replace the deck lid & R. bumper with FG parts; dump the exhaust for SSI; dump MFI for carbs (the pump was originally for a diesel tractor and is way heavy)
easy things to do are to replace the deck lid & R. bumper with FG parts; dump the exhaust for SSI; dump MFI for carbs (the pump was originally for a diesel tractor and is way heavy)
#536
Drifting
Thread Starter
According to Peter Morgan's book, here are 911 weights:
1969-1971 Coupe = 2,249
1972-1973 Coupe = 2,315
Of course, it varies based upon T, E, S and options.
Randy has a pretty good summary of where to loose weight, see attached to see where I am focused. I am still confirming some weights and need to add some weight back on for upgrades, so I wasn't quite ready to share this. I will post the weight of my car once it is complete and taken for corner balancing.
#537
Burning Brakes
Ok
Deck lid and rear bumper would be good and help balance. Tail lights too.
Ive talked to guys removing weight up front (light weight batteries and remove spare tire) and they have mentioned handling suffers. One vintage racer I know has lead strategically added in front bumpers, etc for better balance.
Ive got SSIs, carbs, and GTS Classic seats (fiberglass)....will likely remove rear seats, maybe swap for lightweight carpet. Oh, and remove the stereo. What about doing the proper lightweight door cards and leather pulls?
Deck lid and rear bumper would be good and help balance. Tail lights too.
Ive talked to guys removing weight up front (light weight batteries and remove spare tire) and they have mentioned handling suffers. One vintage racer I know has lead strategically added in front bumpers, etc for better balance.
Ive got SSIs, carbs, and GTS Classic seats (fiberglass)....will likely remove rear seats, maybe swap for lightweight carpet. Oh, and remove the stereo. What about doing the proper lightweight door cards and leather pulls?
#538
Drifting
Thread Starter
^agree. Most of my weight is being removed from mid to back. My sheet shows the weight you loose without those bulky door pulls and pockets. A lot of weight to be saved by removing rear seats, old sound deadening, parcel shelf and other stuff back there. My summary gives an idea. If I can loose close to 200 pounds while keeping my car somewhat original and enjoyable to drive on long drives I'll be happy. I just want a balanced, vintage, analog feel when I drive this car. Not expecting a race car or crazy HP (that will lead to revamp of suspension and flares, etc for balance.)