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Attempted to level my steering wheel (off a few degrees due to installation of Delrin steering rack bushings). One of the springs on the back of the horn pad popped off. Worn tabs that retain the spring are too worn to hold it so super glued the spring in place and held it in compression for 24 hours with a big zip tie wrapped around the horn pad. Probably won't hold up...fingers crossed. Difficult to keep the wheel centered while removing the 27 mm nut, so my first attempt made the position of the wheel a few degrees worse. Using a string to help return to centered I diialed it in with a few more attempts before putting the horn pad back on. OH...and I used Stan's favorite...DC 111 O-ring sealant/lubricant on the horn pad sockets so it will go on and off easier.
Last edited by Captain_Slow; 05-29-2017 at 10:38 AM.
Reason: add photo
Finished up the front-end alignment after a two-plus week interruption. I was enjoying the Houston heat and humidity. Now back up in the hills where it's cooler -- should make it to 70 today after high 80's yesterday.
I took a few pictures, and will update the DIY Alignment thread with how to measure and adjust caster.
Did get a bit of a thrill when I noticed a lake of fluid growing under the LF of the engine. Turns out that pushing and pulling on the wheels left and right during DIY alignment causes PS fluid to puke out of the reservoir. First time for that. I was sure an oil cooler hose or some part of the OPG/mm project from last fall had failed.
Car gets cleaned today so it will be ready for summer duty. Town is full of crazy tourists for the next few weeks as the ski area swaps from winter to summer sports and the bike trails fill up. Call someplace paradise, kiss it goodbye.
Town is full of crazy tourists for the next few weeks as the ski area swaps from winter to summer sports and the bike trails fill up. Call someplace paradise, kiss it goodbye.
I've been reading this about Bend a lot lately. Secret is out.
Lengthened the ball linkage behind the accelerator pedal to get all the pedal potential. I guess years of wear limited my throttle body throw.
Wondered about the spring loaded pedal stop. Is it just for a bit of cushion?
Two benefits of the adjustment.
First the throw is now 100% and secondly the car acts a noticeable amount quicker when I decide to accelerate. This is because when the pedal begins to move so does the throttle body instead of the pedal moving to take up slack. I did leave a slight amount of pedal slack for a bit a safety.
Sorry no pics for this simple but nice enhancement. Just pull the pedal back while grasping the linkage to unplug the ball from the back of the pedal. Then just lengthen the linkage. I did unbolt the pedal to get a better view but it is not necessary. Discovered there are two positions for the base of the pedal. It does not change the full throttle but just tilts the pedal more or less.
Cheers, Steve
A good day for the 1980. It now has the new oil pressure sending unit that arrived today installed; it turned out that I had to remove the recently installed alternator to change the oil pressure sending unit. The oil pressure gauge now works properly again! The alternator first installed last week also works properly now. It seems that the yellow exciter wire hanging off the new alternator is surplus - not needed. The black or blue wire that connects from the harness to the small bolt on the alternator must also act as an exciter circuit connection. With the extra wire that hangs off the alternator connected, the red lights on the dash and the console flashed on and off continuously. Now, with that wire disconnected, the system charges at about 14.2 amps and the red lights no longer flash. Oh, and the hood got new supports; it now stays open as it should when raised. Like I said, a good day for the 928, and I feel better too. Now that all the gauges and exterior lights work properly, I would like to figure out why the windshield wipers and dash lights don't work.
Last time it worked George W. ("How do ya like me now!?!") Bush was President.
Removed crumbling insert and replaced it with a new one from Roger. The insert alone helped, but it took several pulls before it popped. Put the spacer washers back in and it works great!
The rear speaker grills were pushed in and loose, so removed them and pressed the grills into their frames. Cleaned off a lot of failed gluing attempts. I have an idea for a permanent fix...
Last edited by Captain_Slow; 05-27-2017 at 11:51 PM.
Saw something like this on another site titled Simple (and cheap) flappy bearing removal. That used a 10 mm masonry anchor bolt. I could not find a 10mm one, so I made my own tool using 10mm SS shafting from work and a 5mm bolt. The through holes are just over 10mm so it keeps the shaft nicely aligned while removing. Have to admit, it works really well on both instances of bearings that need replacing. couple of whacks with a hammer and they are out. Just didn't want to nick the bearing seats with the Dremel tool.
Car has a mushy pedal. Looks like PO NEVER flushed the fluid. Bought new rotors and pads but they looked ok. Bought stainless lines and replaced the front lines but I couldn't quite figure out how to change the rears. Poor access. Power flushed a quart thru all 6 bleed screws and the clutch as well. Still have a mushy pedal....maybe worse. Will reflush tomorrow but I think I may need a master cylinder. Hope I can get it done before I have to drive 11 hrs to SITM.
Cooling fan amp is bad. Activating the shutters at random times. Pulled the plug to the shutter motor for now as I can't get the unit rebuilt in time for trip.
Per MrMerlin post I removed the old K and N air filter and placed a proper paper Mahle element.
Replaced hatch struts as they are barely adequate and found the new one are even worse. Car has an aftermarket FRP GTS style wing which must be heavier?
Scoped out what it will take to replace the power steering rack. Trying to decide if I'm up for it.
05-23-2017, 11:51 PM
