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Finally had a chance to make some progress on my GT headlights.
Took a deep breath and cut up the buckets, and mounted the Hella projector modules:
Still waiting on the backordered wiring pigtails so I can build the harness and fire them up, but I'm pleased that I didn't **** up the mounting. Making that first cut is always stressful!
Edit: dang, I really need to replace that coolant overflow tank!
Great job! Looks awesome!! While waiting for my transaxle to be installed I was updating my headlights. Here is a pic of my headlights that I finished 2 months ago!
Finished installing new Koni struts, Hawk pads, SS brake lines on the driver's side front. Got the strut, pads and SS lines in on the passenger side yesterday but haven't finished bolting the strut to the steering knuckle.
I made a horrible mistake a couple weeks ago and I'll mention it here just in case anyone else runs into this bear trap.
When I took the old struts out to cut them down, the manual very clearly says to mark the orientation of the eccentric bolt (top bolt) so you can preserve the alignment when re-installing it. I went out and got myself an indelible white marker and I also scribed it before I took it out.
Then I went through the whole procedure of cutting and drilling the strut for the new Koni inserts. I should mention this was on the '89 944S2. Everything went great. I used the pipe cutter method for cutting down the original strut and aside from slicing a finger while checking the cut before deburring it, it was a smooth and rewarding experience. I highly recommend it over the hacksaw method, I got a perfect fit and a professional finish.
Then, I painted the whole thing school bus yellow. Mind you, this is not a concourse car, it's destined for the track. But I thought I'd make it look nice like the pictures Paragon has on their web site.
Needless to say, I painted right over the alignment marks. Sigh. Honestly, I was going to have it aligned anyway.
Next I'll be setting up an engine support, removing the power rack, dropping the cross member and replacing it with the 3 piece Lindsey Racing part. I should have done that last year before installing new SuperMount engine mounts but hadn't really planned far enough ahead to know I'd need the 3 piece. Then it's installing my "de-powered" rack, removing all the power steering stuff, installing my new M030 front sway bar and I'll be very close to buttoning up what has turned into a two year restoration of this car.
I've already finished the new dampers on the rear, new SS brake lines & Hawk pads, Spec Stage 4+ clutch, Only944 Short Shift kit, rebuilt gearbox with ZF LSD, short 5th gear, Supermount transmission mount, new CV joints all around, M030 rear sway bar w/Racer's Edge adjustable drop links, Black Sea Research Torque Tube bearings in a restored "non split" TT I got from a local salvage yard, and a new fuel filter.
It's hard for me to believe this is actually all going to work when I fire it up, but I think I'm only a couple weeks from being finished with phase one. After this, I start on the engine...
But I figured I was having the car aligned anyway so it wasn't much of a big deal. I still feel sort of stupid. I think I got the eccentrics back close to where I remember them being, probably close enough to get to the alignment shop without a lot of tire damage. But be warned; here be dragons...
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 03-26-2017 at 12:02 AM.
Man those bolts for the speed & ref sensors are a pain
Make sure you do the the the bell housing mod before putting it back together. It's a whole lot easier to set the sensors during re-assembly after the bell housing has been cut, and you'll never have to deal with that problem again. All it takes is a angle cutting wheel and a little time.
Make sure you do the the the bell housing mod before putting it back together. It's a whole lot easier to set the sensors during re-assembly after the bell housing has been cut, and you'll never have to deal with that problem again. All it takes is a angle cutting wheel and a little time.
The previous owner must have modded the bellhousing while doing the clutch. I've since installed the updated bracket and sleeve and am just about to gap the sensors. Fingers crossed this solves it.
In summary, I'd recommend against notching the bellhousing. It helps for a clutch job but you may end up having to replace the bracket and re-gap the sensors anyway.
The previous owner must have modded the bellhousing while doing the clutch. I've since installed the updated bracket and sleeve and am just about to gap the sensors. Fingers crossed this solves it.
In summary, I'd recommend against notching the bellhousing. It helps for a clutch job but you may end up having to replace the bracket and re-gap the sensors anyway.
That's good info, but I have an '83 and an early starter. I wonder if that makes a difference?
In summary, I'd recommend against notching the bellhousing. It helps for a clutch job but you may end up having to replace the bracket and re-gap the sensors anyway.
Yes, you may need to shield the lead (which has already been done on the S2 and the parts are available for retrofit) but you do that once.
I'll contend if you own a 944 and are under the age of 40, you should notch the housing. Much older than that and it likely doesn't matter unless you're willing the car to your kids.
Finished belt/ water pump replacement, only to find I removed what look like brand new belts, and an updated water pump (52k on car, but sat for over 6 years ) All the rollers had bad bearings, the timing belt tensioner was ready to destruct, roller was washed out where the bearing is pressed in.
It seems to me that whoever changed belts and pump, did not change rollers.
3 bottles of Pentosin, and motor is happy again!
Finished belt/ water pump replacement, only to find I removed what look like brand new belts, and an updated water pump (52k on car, but sat for over 6 years ) All the rollers had bad bearings, the timing belt tensioner was ready to destruct, roller was washed out where the bearing is pressed in.
It seems to me that whoever changed belts and pump, did not change rollers.
3 bottles of Pentosin, and motor is happy again!
Pretty much had the same situation. 7K on the old belt, but roller where not changed and starting to dry out. Now you have peace of mind. Nice job!
Finished the passenger side brakes, SS lines and strut. Replaced all the tires and put her back on all four feet for the first time in almost half a year (not that it was hard, I broke my back last September and that slowed me down).
Engine support crossmember comes out next along with steering rack.
Started my clutch replacement. Man those bolts for the speed & ref sensors are a pain with the early HCV in the way. The sensors are still in the car, too. Dropped the exhaust, pulled the starter and clutch slave. Unhooked the shifter inside the car. That's about as far as I got today.
You're almost there! Just another 85% of the job to go!
I really should have slotted the bellhousing when we changed the clutch last, I hate those reference sensors.
03-25-2017, 08:43 AM
