When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Nice!! That plating bug bit me as well. This was my first haul:
I had all my pulleys and cogs dropped off as well, but they had to re-do them and I haven't been back to collect them. I have 2 boxes of more parts waiting to drop off... all the steel coolant pipes, all the heat shields, more brackets, suspension components, strut brace, some seat rails, and some of the weird unique fasteners. Looking into having the flexible oil lines plated (the ones with the braided steel around teflon or rubber for the turbo). I read that the process is fine for the rubber but I want to be sure.
Nice!! That plating bug bit me as well. This was my first haul:
I had all my pulleys and cogs dropped off as well, but they had to re-do them and I haven't been back to collect them. I have 2 boxes of more parts waiting to drop off... all the steel coolant pipes, all the heat shields, more brackets, suspension components, strut brace, some seat rails, and some of the weird unique fasteners. Looking into having the flexible oil lines plated (the ones with the braided steel around teflon or rubber for the turbo). I read that the process is fine for the rubber but I want to be sure.
I think rubber parts can survive the electro-plating, but if they do an acid dip beforehand then all bets are off. I had some nylon lock nuts mixed in with a previous batch and they came back as regular nuts.
I paid $165 CDN for all this to get plated - I spent about the same last year as well. It's such a joy dealing with clean, freshly clad bolts during reassembly.
It's also very obvious which parts weren't re-clad in time - the ones with rust don't magically become pretty again. My header heat shields were rust colored - so I had those ceramic coated instead (almost visible in background of this pic). While not perfect, I think the ceramic will hold up better in that location.
Replaced rear brake rotors and pads, rear wheel bearings, put in new instrument cluster lights as a few had burned out, and changed out the air filter.
The squeaking of a deformed rotor and groaning of a tired bearing are now things of the past. The car feels much healthier for those changes.
Had a stripped oil pump bolt on my project 951 engine, at 6 ft-lb or whatever the spec is. Actually managed to not **** it up when helicoiling, first time ever using one. I wish every tapped hole on these silly putty blocks was helicoiled from the factory.
2.7 uses 2.5L crank, it doesn't come that close. My setup is only possible with aftermarket rods, if I'd use stock rods, block & griddle would have to be machined..
But it works like this, others have ran it. This is similar setup (3l crank+2.5 block=2.8L iirc) from user Ski:
03-01-2017 | 12:24 PM
