Dynavin head unit
#391
Rennlist Member
No, I get a subtle hiss through the speakers when I shut the car off and in about 10 mins there is a small pop and the hiss stops. It's never given me a battery drain so I don't worry.
Another way to get excessive hiss has to do with the source (in my case my iPhone). If I have the volume on the source (iPhone) down low and have to crank the Dynavin it hisses, sometimes loudly. If I turn up the volume on the source (iPhone again) and the volume down on the Dynavin this takes care of it. This holds true for a direct connection to the unit or A2DP.
Hope that helps.
Another way to get excessive hiss has to do with the source (in my case my iPhone). If I have the volume on the source (iPhone) down low and have to crank the Dynavin it hisses, sometimes loudly. If I turn up the volume on the source (iPhone again) and the volume down on the Dynavin this takes care of it. This holds true for a direct connection to the unit or A2DP.
Hope that helps.
#392
Ok, so I have had this since November and I can say that even with a few small bugs, this is hands down the best upgrade I have done so far.
The issues I have had include:
- occasionally losing all sound (hard reboot solves)
- source goes from sd card to radio and I can't change back to sd card, or if it does, the sound is still from the radio even though it says sd card. If I switch back and forth a few times, it normally goes back to the sd card source eventually
I haven't upgraded to the 1.1.1 firmware, so hopefully that fixes the issues. Otherwise all good and couldn't be happier.
The issues I have had include:
- occasionally losing all sound (hard reboot solves)
- source goes from sd card to radio and I can't change back to sd card, or if it does, the sound is still from the radio even though it says sd card. If I switch back and forth a few times, it normally goes back to the sd card source eventually
I haven't upgraded to the 1.1.1 firmware, so hopefully that fixes the issues. Otherwise all good and couldn't be happier.
#393
I've just installed the Dynavin in my Cayenne 2004. The installation was fully plug and Play (I don't have camera). I used the GPS antenna from the car and this was also plug and play as the antenna input on the Dynavin was the blue Fakra connector. So no need for any extra cable/connector. I routed the microphone to the top of the steering wheel and the USB cable to the glovebox.
So far everything seems to work fine except for that it starts up like every second time without sound. I then need to reboot (push the four corner button at the same time) and the sound is back. Anyone else with the same problem?
My unit came with firmware 1.1.2.
Edit:
After testing it a bit more it seems like the sound is missing every time I start it after I left the car for some time. When I switch off the ignition it still plays as normal. When I open the door it shut down. If I try to start it again immediately it is ok and it starts to play almost immediately. If I have left the car for a while it sometimes start up immediately with the radio screen showing but no sound or with the 30 second boot screen before it goes to the radio screen also without sound.
I've also noticed that the fade function does not work. I guess that is because the front L/R phono cable is connected to the MOST adapter and is the source for all sound.
My original setup:
PCM CD version with Bose (optical) and cd changer.
Dynavin firmware:
OS version: DynOS1.1.2 -EU-VW
MCU version: MCU1.1.2
CAN interface version: PC 1.0.1
So far everything seems to work fine except for that it starts up like every second time without sound. I then need to reboot (push the four corner button at the same time) and the sound is back. Anyone else with the same problem?
My unit came with firmware 1.1.2.
Edit:
After testing it a bit more it seems like the sound is missing every time I start it after I left the car for some time. When I switch off the ignition it still plays as normal. When I open the door it shut down. If I try to start it again immediately it is ok and it starts to play almost immediately. If I have left the car for a while it sometimes start up immediately with the radio screen showing but no sound or with the 30 second boot screen before it goes to the radio screen also without sound.
I've also noticed that the fade function does not work. I guess that is because the front L/R phono cable is connected to the MOST adapter and is the source for all sound.
My original setup:
PCM CD version with Bose (optical) and cd changer.
Dynavin firmware:
OS version: DynOS1.1.2 -EU-VW
MCU version: MCU1.1.2
CAN interface version: PC 1.0.1
Last edited by psRennlist; 08-18-2015 at 06:10 PM. Reason: New Info
#394
Very very helpful. Still trying to figure out this stupid backup camera thing. I bought this thing like a month ago. First I had to get the fakra adapter. Got the wrong fakra. Bought a 2nd fakra, got it working. Everything looks good but no
I wanna drive this car, but its been sitting in the garage for a month, and its going to probably sit for another month until I can figure out this wiring! I thought it was going to be plug and play.
So I'm still fairly happy with it, just wish there was some place you could easily see what you need to order with it (Male- to male fakra to RCA, NOT the female to female I read on the thread), and this crazy contraption to switch the polarity of the reverse trigger...
I'm wondering what I'll find next, and when we can actually drive this car again! I'm about to put fuel stabilizer in it... haha.
(yeah yeah, I know I could put it in, take it out, put it in, take it out...)
hopefully kool kats directions help, but I'm a little bit intimidated. Lets see if I blow the thing up or something.
I wanna drive this car, but its been sitting in the garage for a month, and its going to probably sit for another month until I can figure out this wiring! I thought it was going to be plug and play.
So I'm still fairly happy with it, just wish there was some place you could easily see what you need to order with it (Male- to male fakra to RCA, NOT the female to female I read on the thread), and this crazy contraption to switch the polarity of the reverse trigger...
I'm wondering what I'll find next, and when we can actually drive this car again! I'm about to put fuel stabilizer in it... haha.
(yeah yeah, I know I could put it in, take it out, put it in, take it out...)
hopefully kool kats directions help, but I'm a little bit intimidated. Lets see if I blow the thing up or something.
Last edited by arachnyd; 10-17-2015 at 06:42 PM.
#395
Track Day
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Roskilde, Denmark
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Very very helpful. Still trying to figure out this stupid backup camera thing. I bought this thing like a month ago. First I had to get the fakra adapter. Got the wrong fakra. Bought a 2nd fakra, got it working. Everything looks good but no
I wanna drive this car, but its been sitting in the garage for a month, and its going to probably sit for another month until I can figure out this wiring! I thought it was going to be plug and play.
So I'm still fairly happy with it, just wish there was some place you could easily see what you need to order with it (Male- to male fakra to RCA, NOT the female to female I read on the thread), and this crazy contraption to switch the polarity of the reverse trigger...
I'm wondering what I'll find next, and when we can actually drive this car again! I'm about to put fuel stabilizer in it... haha.
(yeah yeah, I know I could put it in, take it out, put it in, take it out...)
hopefully kool kats directions help, but I'm a little bit intimidated. Lets see if I blow the thing up or something.
I wanna drive this car, but its been sitting in the garage for a month, and its going to probably sit for another month until I can figure out this wiring! I thought it was going to be plug and play.
So I'm still fairly happy with it, just wish there was some place you could easily see what you need to order with it (Male- to male fakra to RCA, NOT the female to female I read on the thread), and this crazy contraption to switch the polarity of the reverse trigger...
I'm wondering what I'll find next, and when we can actually drive this car again! I'm about to put fuel stabilizer in it... haha.
(yeah yeah, I know I could put it in, take it out, put it in, take it out...)
hopefully kool kats directions help, but I'm a little bit intimidated. Lets see if I blow the thing up or something.
You only need the fakra, if you wish to use the OEM GPS antenna. The GPS antenna that comes with the unit work just fine....
The camera is connected to the Dynavin unit via the brown rca. The camera itself will require some cabling though...
What I feel the unit is missing are (or I did something wrong):
1) According to the Dynavin sales material, the unit should integrate with the onboard computer.
However, I am not able to get any information (such and radio stations etc) in the cluster display or get data (temperatures + voltage) in the OBC screen on the Dynavin unit (even though it is shown in the manual).
2) Parking sensors (PDC) is not displayed on unit - only camera is working
3) USB HDD is limited to 64GB.
4) Only 1 phone can be connected to the unit at a time via bluetooth.
Still the Dynavin is a huge step forward compared to the PCM.
Last edited by cnb88; 10-19-2015 at 07:15 PM.
#396
All about that bass...
I've had the Dynavin head unit for a year and a half now. I've been happy with the unit and excited about what new features are in the works for dyn os 1.2. However, what has been bugging me since I installed this unit is the sudden disappearance of the rear subwoofer. I took a look at the sub and it turns on, but no low end sound was coming out of it. At least with the PCM, the sub was active and giving some sort of low end frequencies. With the dynavin, all I hear is mid bass. I sort of expected this because the MOST adapter only accepts the Front R&L outputs from the headunit.
So, I decided to do something about it today. First I tried directly hooking up the sub outs from the Dynavin into the bose sub amp by using this:
This effort resulted in the same muted bass as before...so I decided to bypass the sub amp by directly powering the rear subwoofer with this:
AND this Amp power kit:
A little bit of searching on the net led me to a post on another forum on the best way to install an aftermarket sub amp. The connecter to the BOSE sub amp is all that is needed for the aftermarket amp. Power, ground, and remote turn on is all there!
Just in case I needed to go back to stock, I used Posi-Taps to tap in to those wires:
Here is a picture with the taps in place. I have not experienced any problems with powering the amp this way. Notice my failed attempt to connect the sub out RCA to the speaker input of the BOSE (green and white wires):
I connected the speaker wires from the Rockford amp directly into the small 1 ohm 5 1/4" sub. I didnt take a picture of the sub but here is the small size of the the opening of the enclosure!
I tucked the wires out of the way and ran them behind the air ride canister and into the rear passenger compartment.
I will mount the amp somehow onto the existing bracket in that compartment. But for now, here is the small amp hiding in its temporary place:
All cleaned up and tucked away!
After installing the amp, there is a big difference in sound. The bass is more enveloping and stronger. I can now control sub volume through the dynavin HU. The amp also has a low pass crossover so i can fine tune the sound much better! I realize this amp is overkill for the BOSE sub, but I did it thinking I was going to end up replacing the puny 5 1/4" sub to a 6 inch kicker or jl 6w3v3 if it fits in the stock subwoofer enclosure. I guess I'll keep it this way until I yearn for more! I have 4 zone ac, so the stealth boxes are a no go for me.
I'm am now happy with the sound..it's more money spent on top of the Dynavin, but it's well worth it!
So, I decided to do something about it today. First I tried directly hooking up the sub outs from the Dynavin into the bose sub amp by using this:
This effort resulted in the same muted bass as before...so I decided to bypass the sub amp by directly powering the rear subwoofer with this:
AND this Amp power kit:
A little bit of searching on the net led me to a post on another forum on the best way to install an aftermarket sub amp. The connecter to the BOSE sub amp is all that is needed for the aftermarket amp. Power, ground, and remote turn on is all there!
Just in case I needed to go back to stock, I used Posi-Taps to tap in to those wires:
Here is a picture with the taps in place. I have not experienced any problems with powering the amp this way. Notice my failed attempt to connect the sub out RCA to the speaker input of the BOSE (green and white wires):
I connected the speaker wires from the Rockford amp directly into the small 1 ohm 5 1/4" sub. I didnt take a picture of the sub but here is the small size of the the opening of the enclosure!
I tucked the wires out of the way and ran them behind the air ride canister and into the rear passenger compartment.
I will mount the amp somehow onto the existing bracket in that compartment. But for now, here is the small amp hiding in its temporary place:
All cleaned up and tucked away!
After installing the amp, there is a big difference in sound. The bass is more enveloping and stronger. I can now control sub volume through the dynavin HU. The amp also has a low pass crossover so i can fine tune the sound much better! I realize this amp is overkill for the BOSE sub, but I did it thinking I was going to end up replacing the puny 5 1/4" sub to a 6 inch kicker or jl 6w3v3 if it fits in the stock subwoofer enclosure. I guess I'll keep it this way until I yearn for more! I have 4 zone ac, so the stealth boxes are a no go for me.
I'm am now happy with the sound..it's more money spent on top of the Dynavin, but it's well worth it!
Last edited by bdtzmaru; 11-22-2015 at 01:44 PM.
#398
The sub is used by the the dynavin unit. As I mentioned in my post, I checked to see if it even puts out sound.... it does but not loud enough for me. There is bass you get with the 8 inch woofers up front, but I missed the bass coming out from the back. Also, the bass that you do get from the front speakers does not go as low as the stock PCM.
I think the problem is the bose amp does not receive the low end frequencies like you would if directly connected to the sub outs of the head unit. So what comes out of of the subwoofer is more a mid bass sound or muted bass. Or maybe the crossover frequencies were handled by the PCM and not the BOSE amps? I don't think there exist a MOST adapter that accepts all 6 channels, including the sub outs. The Nav-tv MOST-HUR unit is the same way. A thought of mine was maybe I could set the bass louder with the PCM and the BOSE amp somehow memorizes this volume? I never tried this because I didn't want to disconnect everything again....but it may be worth a shot...
Regardless of the problem, I was not happy about the sub not being used at it's full potential. The aftermarket amp solves this problem by dialing in the frequency that passes through the subwoofer and amplifying that sound. The sound is now complete for me! Since they are BOSE speakers, it is not earth shattering, facial muscle moving sound and bass.....but that is how I like the sound now. I'm too old to wake up the neighbors and **** em off!
I think the problem is the bose amp does not receive the low end frequencies like you would if directly connected to the sub outs of the head unit. So what comes out of of the subwoofer is more a mid bass sound or muted bass. Or maybe the crossover frequencies were handled by the PCM and not the BOSE amps? I don't think there exist a MOST adapter that accepts all 6 channels, including the sub outs. The Nav-tv MOST-HUR unit is the same way. A thought of mine was maybe I could set the bass louder with the PCM and the BOSE amp somehow memorizes this volume? I never tried this because I didn't want to disconnect everything again....but it may be worth a shot...
Regardless of the problem, I was not happy about the sub not being used at it's full potential. The aftermarket amp solves this problem by dialing in the frequency that passes through the subwoofer and amplifying that sound. The sound is now complete for me! Since they are BOSE speakers, it is not earth shattering, facial muscle moving sound and bass.....but that is how I like the sound now. I'm too old to wake up the neighbors and **** em off!
Last edited by bdtzmaru; 11-22-2015 at 02:06 PM.
#400
http://handcraftedcaraudio.com/porsc...-sound-system/
https://www.pacificstereo.com/garage...-speakers.html
http://www.carstereochick.com/2012/0...rmarket-sound/
Last edited by colowhisper; 11-22-2015 at 09:22 PM.
#401
I thought about doing a full replacement also. Even with the headaches and multiple adapters to make this work, it ends up being approximately more than half the cost. The MOST-HUR is pricey as heck! Then the cost of the speakers? But you will end up with a nicer sound system...
Edit:
A full rewire will not need the MOST-HUR.
Edit:
A full rewire will not need the MOST-HUR.
#402
Intermediate
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 45
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My unit is showing a white screen randomly at times now. A reset of the system fixes it but it has happening more and more often and getting annoying
Going to try to figure out why this is happening.
Also separately I upgraded my firmware to 1.2.0 (the white screen issue happened before this already). Hopefully the new software will make it more stable.
The new feature it looks like is the Voice button. Paired up with my iPhone pressing the right ****, the voice button, or phone triggers Siri. On my android it triggers google now. The other change looks like more options for backup lines.
EDIT: I talked to Jeff from J&T Distributing and he said Dynavin redesigned the ribbon cable because there was issues related to it on the old Dynavin N6 units, so I'm going to try to get a new one to fix this issue.
Going to try to figure out why this is happening.
Also separately I upgraded my firmware to 1.2.0 (the white screen issue happened before this already). Hopefully the new software will make it more stable.
The new feature it looks like is the Voice button. Paired up with my iPhone pressing the right ****, the voice button, or phone triggers Siri. On my android it triggers google now. The other change looks like more options for backup lines.
EDIT: I talked to Jeff from J&T Distributing and he said Dynavin redesigned the ribbon cable because there was issues related to it on the old Dynavin N6 units, so I'm going to try to get a new one to fix this issue.
Last edited by hanlong; 12-10-2015 at 07:29 PM. Reason: more information added
#403
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Spring Lake, NJ, US of A
Posts: 10,085
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The sub is used by the the dynavin unit. As I mentioned in my post, I checked to see if it even puts out sound.... it does but not loud enough for me. There is bass you get with the 8 inch woofers up front, but I missed the bass coming out from the back. Also, the bass that you do get from the front speakers does not go as low as the stock PCM.
I think the problem is the bose amp does not receive the low end frequencies like you would if directly connected to the sub outs of the head unit. So what comes out of of the subwoofer is more a mid bass sound or muted bass. Or maybe the crossover frequencies were handled by the PCM and not the BOSE amps? I don't think there exist a MOST adapter that accepts all 6 channels, including the sub outs. The Nav-tv MOST-HUR unit is the same way. A thought of mine was maybe I could set the bass louder with the PCM and the BOSE amp somehow memorizes this volume? I never tried this because I didn't want to disconnect everything again....but it may be worth a shot...
Regardless of the problem, I was not happy about the sub not being used at it's full potential. The aftermarket amp solves this problem by dialing in the frequency that passes through the subwoofer and amplifying that sound. The sound is now complete for me! Since they are BOSE speakers, it is not earth shattering, facial muscle moving sound and bass.....but that is how I like the sound now. I'm too old to wake up the neighbors and **** em off!
I think the problem is the bose amp does not receive the low end frequencies like you would if directly connected to the sub outs of the head unit. So what comes out of of the subwoofer is more a mid bass sound or muted bass. Or maybe the crossover frequencies were handled by the PCM and not the BOSE amps? I don't think there exist a MOST adapter that accepts all 6 channels, including the sub outs. The Nav-tv MOST-HUR unit is the same way. A thought of mine was maybe I could set the bass louder with the PCM and the BOSE amp somehow memorizes this volume? I never tried this because I didn't want to disconnect everything again....but it may be worth a shot...
Regardless of the problem, I was not happy about the sub not being used at it's full potential. The aftermarket amp solves this problem by dialing in the frequency that passes through the subwoofer and amplifying that sound. The sound is now complete for me! Since they are BOSE speakers, it is not earth shattering, facial muscle moving sound and bass.....but that is how I like the sound now. I'm too old to wake up the neighbors and **** em off!
Sort of makes sense since the speaker in the housing in the rear isn't particularly large, and size does make a difference if you're really looking to move some air below ~100Hz.
Read your owners manual - it's described there.
#404
Intermediate
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Palo Alto, CA
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Update on the issue with my unit.
Apparently you should not leave the update files on your SD card, it will cause instability. After I removed them my unit has been much more stable.
I also got a new ribbon which I will attempt to replace although it looks like my issue was most likely the SD card.
Apparently you should not leave the update files on your SD card, it will cause instability. After I removed them my unit has been much more stable.
I also got a new ribbon which I will attempt to replace although it looks like my issue was most likely the SD card.
#405
Burning Brakes
While everyone calls the speaker in the rear spare tire well a "sub" - Porsche doesn't. It's called a woofer - and the two front door lower (big) speakers are referred to as subwoofers.
Sort of makes sense since the speaker in the housing in the rear isn't particularly large, and size does make a difference if you're really looking to move some air below ~100Hz.
Read your owners manual - it's described there.
Sort of makes sense since the speaker in the housing in the rear isn't particularly large, and size does make a difference if you're really looking to move some air below ~100Hz.
Read your owners manual - it's described there.
It's in a ported enclosure
It has its own amplifier
It receives the lowest frequencies
The MANUAL refers to it as a SUBWOOFER (page 304 of my manual)