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Good Morning - Just recently got myPorsche app working and it brought to my attention the tire pressure. App says it's too high by about 3 and 6 PSI front and rear respectively. Checked the owners manual and it states different pressures for partial load and full load. My tires seem to be set up for full load and then some. 80% of times I don't have passengers. It's almost always a 'partial load'.
Wondering what everyone here is running their tires at. I have the 20' rims. Tires seem to be wearing evenly, but I've only had the car for 6 months.
I run mine, 21" Continental Conti Sport S, at 36 PSI front 42 PSI rear. The Continentals give a noticeably softer ride than the Pirelli P Zero NCT I had been using to date and I think they might be a tad quieter as well. At my age of 77, I am now less interested in absolute adhesion.
It's definitely not the turbos. It's coming from the rear of the vehicle, though I've still not been able to record the sound. I can pretty much replicate it at will though. If I'm accelerating from ~50-60 kph to highway speeds of ~120-130 kph, particularly if under load due to an upward incline, it makes a whining sound at each upshift. Basically, upshifts under load with moderate to heavy acceleration in hybrid or sport mode (i.e., when ICE is running), I have the issue. So, one day soon, I'll attempt to properly replicated on an upsloping highway on-ramp a few miles from my house, and record it.
Update: It has been a couple of years, but I think I finally got this resolved. The dealer always said they could not replicate it, but I finally took a tech out with me and he heard it. So, I think they figured it out. They said it was an issue with the "exhaust flap actuator." They said it was installed incorrectly during manufacture, and they disassembled and re-fit it. From what I could tell on the ride home, I think the issue is resolved ... but it was heavy traffic and raining so I could not quite test the conditions that usually trigger it. Hopefully it is now fixed. They said if it is not resolved, they'll need to replace the part.
Wilson, I agree with you for the most part and have never bought extended coverage on anything before.
I too am getting on in years and only drive about 11,000 KM per year. However, after reading about someone on this Forum being quoted $30K USD for a battery replacement, I am concerned about the cost enough to consider "reasonably priced" extended warranty insurance.
Just bought a 2024 Kia Niro EV (to replace a very reliable 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT ) and considered buying an extended warranty (plan cost about $4000) on it that extends the Kia warranty by 5 years on most components, but the "fine print" of the contract specifically caps the battery coverage at $7500- so I am not buying. It was only for battery coverage that I even inquired about it.
The Porsche extended warranty does not cover the battery at all.
The fact that I am having a problem finding a company in the market willing to insure against battery failure (beyond partial coverage and at a reasonable cost) is a bit disconcerting.
Even if you have the warranty, Porsche can’t get the batteries to fix the car in any case. Many of us have been without our cars for months awaiting replacement batteries. Once authorized, the delivery dates keep slipping out. PCNA is no help in resolving the situations.
Update: It has been a couple of years, but I think I finally got this resolved. The dealer always said they could not replicate it, but I finally took a tech out with me and he heard it. So, I think they figured it out. They said it was an issue with the "exhaust flap actuator." They said it was installed incorrectly during manufacture, and they disassembled and re-fit it. From what I could tell on the ride home, I think the issue is resolved ... but it was heavy traffic and raining so I could not quite test the conditions that usually trigger it. Hopefully it is now fixed. They said if it is not resolved, they'll need to replace the part.
Spoke too soon. The original issue seems to have been fixed. However, my Sport Exhaust does not seem to work (no change in exhaust sound when on), and when it is on, slowing down / letting off the gas causes a sound from the back that sounds like a squeaky door w/ rusty hinges opening. So I’m guessing the valves that control the exhaust / sport exhaust will need to be replaced. Back to dealer on Tuesday so they can investigate, then make an appointment to fix it. Ugh.
Time to change the 12v Battery on my 2018 e-H. Dealer is asking $1150 - wow. I'll be changing this my self, and plan to buy the iCarsoft for coding. I've found videos for battery replacement in the standard 971, but not e-hybrid. Looks like they don't share batt. location either. Any one here do this yet? From what I can tell it's prob. located under the left trunk cover over the wheel well. Want to confirm before diving in.
Also looking for a good service manual - any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
I was going to do it myself using a CTEK charger and a CARLY OBD2 reader. In the end I got my dealer to do it, as the thought of spending upwards of £2000 re-programming all the assorted ECU's, with volatile memory, concerned me, if anything went wrong with the changeover, charger clip knocked off etc. I think the cost at a main dealer was around £400. £280 for the battery and £120 labour. The mechanic said it is a job everyone hates, as on the hybrid, you always end up with a sore back, from the awkward angle to lift the very heavy battery out.
Wilson, how in the world did your dealer do this for 400 pounds? My dealer wants $1100 as is the case with most others who have posted here. The OEM battery alone costs $490.00.
Anyhow, from what I've read, it's really not a big job. I'm however struggling to find any service manual for this car. I would love to buy one to take on these easy DIY projects. Any help would be appreciated.
Build starts next week
will be in US by August
delivery may be held up till January by EPA
frustrating
hopefully epa thing gets cleared up and car gets delivered much sooner instead of being held at port
Wilson, how in the world did your dealer do this for 400 pounds? My dealer wants $1100 as is the case with most others who have posted here. The OEM battery alone costs $490.00.
Anyhow, from what I've read, it's really not a big job. I'm however struggling to find any service manual for this car. I would love to buy one to take on these easy DIY projects. Any help would be appreciated.
The price of the battery was £290 in the UK a couple of years ago and they then charged me 1/2 an hour labour. Nowadays Porsche workshop manuals seem to be heavily restricted to dealers. The last workshop manual I had was for 1975-77 911's but I sold my 1977 RSR four weeks ago, as due to age and health problems, I had barely used it over the last three years.
I have been told you can in some countries subscribe to a Porsche online service to access their manuals but have no idea how to do this. I believe the service is called Porsche TIS.
The price of the battery was £290 in the UK a couple of years ago and they then charged me 1/2 an hour labour. Nowadays Porsche workshop manuals seem to be heavily restricted to dealers. The last workshop manual I had was for 1975-77 911's but I sold my 1977 RSR four weeks ago, as due to age and health problems, I had barely used it over the last three years.
I have been told you can in some countries subscribe to a Porsche online service to access their manuals but have no idea how to do this. I believe the service is called Porsche TIS.
Wilson
you have a very honest dealer Wilson. My dealer is quoting two hours labor at $250 an hour. Ouch !
Time to change the 12v Battery on my 2018 e-H. Dealer is asking $1150 - wow. I'll be changing this my self, and plan to buy the iCarsoft for coding. I've found videos for battery replacement in the standard 971, but not e-hybrid. Looks like they don't share batt. location either. Any one here do this yet? From what I can tell it's prob. located under the left trunk cover over the wheel well. Want to confirm before diving in.
Also looking for a good service manual - any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
T
The battery is behind a removable panel on the right side of the trunk as you’re looking at it from the rear hatch. I just put in a quick disconnect for my trickle charger the other day.
Search indicates that there is something in this thread about Carplay. I had my 2018 system updated to have full-screen display and in the process I received a USB to Blue Tooth dongle that allows me to connect my iphone without plugging it into the USB port in the center console. That wasn't working because there is no location to place the phone except in the console, and that caused the phone to overheat.
So the dongle works. On start-up I get a message on the display asking if I want to connect Carplay. I select it and Carplay appears on the display.. Sometimes it functions correctly giving me access to my phone and apps on the phone such as Waze, Pandora, etc. The problem I am having is that some unknown thing causes the Carplay display to disappear. If I stop the car and my wife exits (without me turning off the ignition) I get a black screen with all the functions shown in print (car, source, media, etc. This happens on other occasions, but I can't find a common thread or even guess at what causes it. The vertical list of functions on the left side of the display still contains "Carplay", but selecting it doesn't restore the visual Carplay display. If I was playing music at the time this occurs, the music continues to play, but the Carplay display (with the ability to make selections or view Waze, for example) is gone. Since the music (Pandora for example) continues to plan, logic says that the phone is still connected to the car. I have no clue what causes this. One minute I'm driving with Carplay displayed. Then I look at the display and see the black screen. Has anyone experienced this? Know the cause? Guess at the cause? Thanks in advance for any ideas.
I had a 2018 E-hybrid 4 (i.e., base, 6cyl, not many options). I wanted the fast one, with the panorama camera, insulated glass, 4 wheel steering, etc., so I know have a 2018 Turbo S E-hybrid with all the options except the distance keeping cruise control and related. My soul is now at peace.
The 6 cyl had terrible, interior-vibrating cooling-fan noise after sitting in hot weather for the initial 1-3 minutes after start-up (in both "E" and hybrid drive modes). It's been discussed on this thread and other threads in the forum. Dealership found nothing, said all was normal.
Interestingly, the Turbo with the 8 cyl makes no such noise, rather it makes the same cooling-fan noises on hot days as it does on mild days, which is nothing excessive at all, no interior-vibrations or other such unseemly conduct. Carfax does show the radiator was replaced sometime in the life of the car, but I have no insight into the conditions around that other then "radiator replaced".
I don't recall if those complaining of excessive cooling / hot weather noise were all 6 cylinder owners or included 8 cylinder owners.
But, based on my anecdotal, but first-hand experience: if you have 8 cylinders and the car is excessively noisy in trying to cool itself on hot days, I would say there is indeed a problem - b/c mine does not. If you have 6 cylinders and the car is excessively noisy in trying to cool itself on hot days, maybe that's typical for the 6's, or maybe not. But mine did.
05-02-2024, 01:42 PM
