Mech33

Have you ever heard the cooling fan kick on? Again what is concerning is I never would have known it was over-voltage without the monitors that were hooked up. I suspect others have had this fail state occur but just didn’t know and left 16.5V applied for long periods.

A couple high-quality options look like the Schumacher INC100 (< $550), and the Clore PL6100 (< $450). Both are 100A-capable supplies designed for reflash support with digitally programmable voltages. The Porsche tool spec’d for this is now the VAS5908. It’s a cool $2k though, unfortunately.

siberian

Actually not that I recall. I guess the easiest is to have to an additional meter to the voltage display on the dash and one that's connected to the PowerMax showing voltage (and Amps).

siberian

Mech33

I ended up pulling the trigger on a Victron Energy blue smart IP22 30-amp charger.



Some things I liked about this charger:

- Designed by a professional power technology company
- 5 year warranty (I care less about the warranty and more about what that says about the product quality)
- 30 amps continuous charging
- Supports lithium batteries (so I can use the same charger for both topping up the battery and keeping it steady during programming)
- Fully customizable charging profiles (including a fixed output "power supply" mode, though it's not needed)
- Real-time voltage and current monitoring of the output via Bluetooth in their app
- Well-supported with frequent firmware updates and new features (e.g., the "power supply" mode was added in an update)
- Reasonably priced at under $200

Once the battery was charged, the charger never had to source any more than about 10.5 amps while the ignition was on.

JB911

30 amps is not enough for any of these cars-the 997 alone requires 40 amps-I have the factory service manual and that's what it says.
JB

siberian

x2, it's been mentioned a few times.

Minimum I would recommend is 75A with 100A being now suggested. When coding heavily and connected to the 75A PowerMax, voltage dropped from 13.4v to 12.9 while waiting for a VAL. I wish there was a way to turn off lights etc.; I do turn off the PCM display but still a needless waste of current powering the lights etc.

I ordered a digital LED meter I'm connecting to the PowerMax, alas the PO is backed up and delivery is delayed...maybe today or Monday...

siberian

John Mclane

Which lights do you mean? Not the headlights, those you can turn off. The dashboard actually pulls a lot, but that you can't shut down (at least not willingly).

A tidbit that I also learned on the way is to have the key fob placed on the "learning" spot. On the 992, narrow space just in front of the central armrest. It need to stay open. On the cayenne, inside passenger side cup holder.

siberian

DRLs, rear lights, dash drain power needlessly

What's the "learning spot" supposed to do?

siberian

John Mclane

Allegedly it's supposed to be used for proper coding, the ideal reception point for the fob.
I've forgotten in the past and nothing different happened. I read about it on a TSB, I believe.

siberian

I normally put the FOB in the cup holder; I would assume close enough to the point you mention. Do you happen to still have the TSB?

siberian

Mech33

I understand what folks are saying is recommended, but it seems like most are flying blind without actually measuring the current draw.

Note that a partially discharged battery will also draw whatever your supply will give it as it recharges, so the a fair test of what the car is drawing is to first charge the battery fully until it’s not drawing any significant current at the charging voltage, and then go do the diagnostics work.

Mech33

BTW I found this unit easy to hook up and zip tie permanently to the side of the supply, and accurate within 0.3A or so (the advertised resolution):

bayite DC 5-120V 100A Mini Digital Current Voltage Amp Meter Ammeter Gauge with Hall Effect Sensor Transformer

siberian

It probably depends on your car's configuration (RAS etc.) and number of pending DTCs you have while trying to complete a VAL for example. To my understanding there isn't a defined test you run on PIWIS that will draw this amperage while another one will draw more or less. From all the folks who've been using PIWIS and have done extensive coding with it for lengthier time periods this is what's recommended. If you feel this amperage isn't needed then you should use the tool you think is best.

As to the volt meter, yes, as I mentioned I've ordered one but Amazon deliveries are backed up one week here so who knows when I'll get it.


siberian

Mech33

I suspect the service manual specifications are there for techs to handle whatever comes into their shop in any state, including batteries in vehicles with a low state of charge yet they need to enforce 13.5V-14V at the battery to do the diagnostics / etc. On a low state of charge battery, maintaining that voltage could draw a significant amount of current for a long period of time until the battery is charged.

Bur if the battery is already fully charged, then you should only need to deal with the amount consumed by the vehicle electronics during the work.

siberian

As I mentioned, you should use the tool you feel is right for you. No sense in beating this to death.

siberian

FerdinandAG

Today I programmed the DME and PDK unit in a 2019 Porsche Panamera, 90A required