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The distributor for Akrapovic confirmed they're not interested in making any more, even for a group buy, sad!
I'll have something interesting from Cargraphic installed in a few weeks though.
The custom Cargraphic exhaust valve controller override module came in two days before the NCR PCA DE at Club Motorsports in Tamworth, NH (clubmotorsports.com).
It was my first DE since buying the GT4 over five years ago, so long overdue.
There's 250' of elevation change, which didn't seem like much from the car, but I realized was much steeper on the end of day track walk.
Much thanks to my instructor and fellow GT4 owner Nick, who among other things provided great insight into how to best get around the course.
First session I left the module in automatic mode and wasn't black flagged, which I thought odd since I have headers without catalysts.
Second session I was flagged for being `way over' 92dB.
If you see a fellow on a bicycle pointing something at you from the perimeter road, this is the sound man.
I was fine after setting to the third mode of always closed, and didn't have any overheating issues.
Second mode is always open.
It didn't come with instructions, and I didn't take pictures because of limited time.
The 981 valve controller is easily accessible on the top right of the intake manifold (see post 4), where the one for the 781 is hidden under the left side of the intake.
The two cables connecting to the Cargraphic unit are run under the engine bay cover similar to the 781; https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...trol-unit.html
I stuck the unit on the top of the right wheel well above an ECU, and captured it's ground wire under the ECU mounting nut.
The red wire doesn't have a connector on the end to plug into an open slot in the fuse block like the one for the 781.
To the right of the ECU there's a fuse block.
The fifth small fuse from the right, a 15A, has two wires coming off of the back.
Used a T connector left over from a Valentine One kit to tap into the smaller diameter wire.
Top left button (unlock) is always open, top right is automatic, bottom left (lock) is always closed.
It is fiddly because the nose is from the other site.
Just gently lift / wiggle with some plastic wedges and it will eventually come loose.
If it should brake, it will be no drama.
I seem to be stuck here, can't get this damn connector loose. Help please!
Connector at oil tube...
It's almost impossible to unlatch this cable assembly from the clip on the oil fill pipe (post 2, diagram 1, part 21), as the latch is underneath and only accessible from the end facing the pipe.
To remove it I had to chisel off the top end of the connector.
When I installed the new one I left it unlatched.
Originally Posted by DR.S
It is fiddly because the nose is from the other site.
Just gently lift / wiggle with some plastic wedges and it will eventually come loose.
If it should brake, it will be no drama.
Good to know this is possible without breaking anything.
Completed the CS/GT3TB install. I didn't expect the car to be so much faster. I would now call it spooky. Dyno numbers are one thing. Spooky fast is something else.
Oh yeah the trick to getting that clip off the oil tube is, insert a large flat blade screwdriver in the top part of what looks like a square and twist. it pops right off and unbroken.
07-29-2021, 03:26 PM
