Clark-ApexPerformance

Joe,
Thanks for your imput. The initial bite being not as much is the same thing I have heard from everybody that has purchased them...but you are the first to offer a direct comparison.

ExMB

I know you have driven the PFC11s as well. How is their initial bite compared to the RE10s. I know you said back then that the Ferrodo initial bite was better than the PFCs.

Thanx

orthojoe

It's been over a year since I last drove a car with pfc11. From what I remember, the initial bite is similar to ds1.11, but max torque required less pedal effort for ds1.11. If you are the type that hits the brake pedal as hard as you can, the pfc11 might suit your style better because if you do that with the ds1.11 it will lock the brakes and it will feel like it is not stopping well because of abs. Conversely, if you don't hit the brake pedal with all your might, the pfc11 will seem like it requires too much effort to stop the car.

Manifold

I've been using the ds1.11 on the GT3 for a while, and have liked them. But based on the good reviews of the RE10, including the reports of them lasting substantially longer than other pads, I'm going to give them a try on the GT3, and likely the GT4 also.

I used to favor a lot of initial bite, but as my braking technique has improved, I've come to prefer a moderate initial bite, so that I can modulate more precisely.

Beantown Kman

+1. I feel the same as Manifold. A more aggressive compound, with more initial bite, will stop the car in a shorter distance. But they are likely to result in more chassis/platform unbalance as you get on and off the brake. And it is harder not to overslow the car. As Manifold said, learning to modulate the brake precisely is easier with a less aggressive compound.

GrantG

I love them too. I sold my GT4 and have a set (for all 4 wheels) of barely used RE-10's left over available for sale. PM me if interested...

Manifold

I think that having more initial bite can give the *impression* of more slowing/stopping power, but less bite can be compensated by more pressure to slow the car as desired, and in my experience better modulation is the key to deeper braking points.

Less initial bite also has benefits in terms of better modulation when braking more softly (below threshold).

A further benefit of less initial bite (and better modulation) is being able to stay closer to threshold without activating ABS, resulting in less heat in the brake system.

Macca

Let's not forget the RE10 are much kinder to the rotors going by the amount of use Trakcar had been getting from his OEM rotors after running a few sets of RE10 in Europe and USA.

To me this is a big plus as after tires OEM rotors are the biggest running cost on the GT3....

Macca

Grant - have sent you PM...

4carl

bigger bite does mean less heat because the pad makes contact for a shorter period of time ..

orthojoe

Much kinder to rotors compared to oem?

I had 30 days on my ap rotors using ds1.11 before they accidentally were destroyed by running the pad down to the backing plate. The rotors would have lasted 40 days.

I'm currently on 12 days with oem rotors on my gt4. They probably have another 2-3 days left in them

DC640

but joe, you drive so fast, of course rotors will melt =)

orthojoe

They melt when you scrape backing pad straight onto the rotor! Lol

Macca

Yip. OeM pads. Best I can get is 9 days from front rotors. Hoping to double that with the RT RE10 pad. AP j hook rotors obviously go twice the distance again...

Macca

That sounds about right for the GT4 OEM front rotors. Guys here getting roughly 15 days from them on OEM pads. Generally they run thickness limits before they do the big cracks like the GT3. I'm guessing different weight distribution, lower vmax, good front down force and less weight helps them last longer on the GT4