Eric5280

Agreed, I feel like I burned them up off the bat due to ignorance. They really weren't a bad tire.

GrantG

Thanks! Looks much more even than Dunlops!

DeerHunter

Just to clarify: Is this 29 psi hot all around (no delta front to rear)? My replacement tires, currently sitting in my basement, are Dunlop take-offs, so I would prefer to nail it first time out.

GrantG

I usually aim for 28 or 29psi Front and 30 or 31psi rear (Hot) on the Dunlops. Rears are looking great - fronts not so much...

Eric5280

Yes, my best results were 29/31 hot Front/Rear, and like 22/24 initial cold. A bit loose on the out lap until temps come up, haha.

Eric5280

Beat me to it, Grant is super-quick and helped me with this.

DeerHunter

Thanks all. First track day of the season is this Friday. Putting Castrol SRF in this afternoon and will switch tires left to right.

R.e. Cup 2s: There are several threads (I've read through them all) but what's the latest and greatest thinking about tire pressures? It all seems to be a trade-off between center and edge wear.

MileHigh911

Joe,
Maybe you need a DSC with one programmed for the GT4, one programmed for the GT3. Help DSC develop this even further!

ML///

Did you notice any dropoff in times as you approached this level of wear?

katmeho

Depends on the track but anything over 34 hot will have the tire getting greasy on you. I start warm days at TH at 26 cold and adjust from there, usually a pound higher on the left side. My thread has some outside/middle/inside temps from multiple sessions along with pressures.

orthojoe

Only if DSC helps get me one! LOL

great question.

orthojoe

Small updates since I don't have an opportunity to return to the track until 5/28.

1) Changed the original oil after 2 track days. Switched to 5w-50 since it's factory approved, has worked fine on my 987 spyder and 991 GT3, and it doesn't get cold enough here to need 0w-40.



2) This car doesn't burn oil like the 991 GT3 does

3) Swapped brake fluid to RBF600.



4) Swapped OEM brake pads to project mu club racer pads




Immediately I can notice the brake pedal is firmer and the travel is shorter. I'm going to guess that these pads will work better than OEM, but last no longer than OEM. These pads have been known to crumble. I'll find out after doing 4 track days 4 weeks in a row starting 5/28. 2 of those days will be at laguna, so the brakes will be punished more.

5) An issue with the Tarett front tie rods. On full lock, one of the adjustment nuts will hit the upright. Not an ideal design or situation. I talked to my shop and Tarett about it, and they both think it is ok to leave alone. Otherwise, you'll have to add a spacer and that will affect bump steer....

Yargk

Hi Joe, I had a couple questions about your rear toe links while I wait for my car.

1. (this might be obvious) It looks like the rear toe link attaches directly to the wheel carrier (is that what it's called?), so would I be correct in saying that interference between the toe link end and a 19 inch wheel should NOT be camber dependent, because they move together with different camber settings?

2. Do you think there is any more room with the Tarett link? It looks slightly rounder and lower profile. 1 mm would be important to me, since I'm OCD about offsets.

Thanks!

(keep us posted about the front tie-rods too!)

orthojoe

Unfortunately, I don't know. I wasn't the one doing the link install and alignment, so I can't say. Maybe someone else can chime in?

The tarett link still looks pretty close to the wheel. I'm not sure how close it will look on 19" whels

usctrojanGT3

Not too much difference from the first HC to the last HC other than the tires getting a little greasier faster with a bit of sliding 15-20 minutes into the session.