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I have a similar first world quandary....... I bought a completed 4.5L 981 GT4 from Rick in March and I love it. It is bat **** crazy and loads of fun.
I keep a 981 Boxster Spyder at my second home in the Pacific Northwest. Was just up there and drove the Spyder last week, and Holy Cow.... it suddenly feels like a friggin Honda Civic!!!! I need to fall back in love again!!
Enjoy your 4.5L in good health!
Hi Rob.
I'm in Laguna Niguel also and spotted your GT4 at the Chevron (Niguel/Crown Valley) several weeks ago. I was looking around for the owner as I wanted to get your impressions as I'm considering this for my 997.2 C2S. Would love to have a brief chat with you about your car!
Drove a 2021 Cayman GTS with the DeMan 4.5L conversion yesterday.
The owner said: "Rick exceeded every expectation. The process was also done on time." This coming from a person who has done aftermarket and customization work on many many vehicles.
The car drove like a champ. When in regular mode, it is as docile as any other Porsche stock vehicle.
Once it is in Sport/Sport+ and the engine spinning, the car completely transforms and every one in the car can't help but have a big smile. Acceleration and throttle response is immediate. The car cracks off shifts instantaneously (PDK) while pulling hard all the way up.
Very impressive. Stock and docile when the owner wants it to be. Aggressive, loud, and fast when the owner wants it to be. I want one of these as well. lol.
For those needing to complete a drive cycle for emissions, here is the short version of what to do:
Keep RPM under 3,000 for entire process
Stay under 60mph for entire process
Gas between 1/4 and 3/4 tank
Cold Startup (after car has been parked for at least 6 hours). Let idle for 2.5 minutes.
3.5minutes drive between 20-30mph
15min drive between 40-60mph
slow to a stop and idle for 3min
3.5min drive between 20-30mph
15min drive between 40-60min
slow to a stop and idle for 3min
Drive cycle complete.
This is how you turn one of the most exciting vehicles on the road to one of the worst processes. Everyone wondering if the person driving is 98yrs old. Had to wake up super early so I would bother the least amount of people.
Prior to starting the driving cycle ensure your Porsche's fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Also do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph during any portion of the drive cycle. Take extra caution when perform the Porsche drive cycle on public roadways. if you think you will be unable to safely perform the drive cycle please seek assistance from an experienced Porsche mechanic or smog check repair center.
A. Start your Porsche 911 and let it idle for approximately 2 1/2 minutes. This will allow the ECU to diagnose oxygen sensor aging; meaning the computer will be monitoring the oxygen sensor warm-up period and reaction to rising exhaust temperatures. During this period the ECU is also testing the Secondary Air Injection system.
B. Begin driving. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain your speed for 3 1/2 minutes. The ECU will be testing catalytic converter efficiency.
C. Next, accelerate to 40-60 MPH. Once again maintain steady speed, this time for approximately 15 minutes. The EVAP system is now being tested along with adaptation range (2) and the oxygen sensor (switching).
D. Decelerate and come to a complete stop. If equipped with a manual transmission, idle in neutral for 3 minutes. If equipped with an automatic Tiptronic transmission, idle in drive (D) for 3 minutes. Adaptation range (2) is now being tested.
E. Repeat steps B through D. Drive cycle complete.
Maybe I'm the only downer here but I had the conversion done last winter and then religiously followed the 1000 "easy miles" break-in instructions then oil change before taking it to the track. I had the oil changed again after 5 track days and there was metal in the oil and filter and the cylinders were scored. DeMan has the car and has taken the engine apart and had the cylinders redone but today he emailed me that the engine people say the car wasn't broken in properly, even though I did exactly what DeMan told me to do. So DeMan is making me pay for redoing the cylinders and other parts. I don't know what that will cost yet. But I'm concerned that I have a great track car with a fragile engine. Be careful with that car.
"Wasn't broken in properly" - that is an absolutely laughable excuse for a faulty engine. Have you ever heard a manufacturer deny a warranty claim for break in?
I have about 3k miles on my 4.5l conversion, and recently got it back after having a problem. It felt like it was down on power, it ran ok but wasn't 'scary' anymore when you stood on the gas pedal. I had another 4.5l owner drive it and he felt the same, so I called Rick and sent it back to him. He drove it and agreed something was wrong. No CEL or codes were present. The shop pulled the engine, complete disassembly only to find nothing wrong, put it back in and still not making all the power. Pulled it again and tried it in another car and it showed a code for the MAP sensor, with that changed the engine made all the power as advertised. I have about 1k on it since getting it back, and it is running great. Rick and his team went through many hoops to find the issue and make sure the car was properly sorted, all at no cost to me. Still no clue as to why my car didn't show a code for the failed MAP sensor. That would have save much time/expense. Looking back, it seems the car didn't make much torque compared to now, and the throttle was less sensitive so I have put that in my 'memory bank' in case the sensor fails again with no CEL/codes. I have full confidence in Rick and his team to keep his customers happy with a proper build.
08-31-2022, 08:37 PM
