bwbob

User 52121

Seems like the cutoff is the year then - 2014.

For 2015+ there is no Porsche option. As I have a 2015.... I went to Audi. While I'm 99.99% certain there is no difference between the 2014 and 2015 model years as far as engine hardware goes - it was a "refresh" year (958.1 to 958.2) so I went with Audi.

But good to know for folks here as a future reference, if you have a .2 you can likely find most of what you need from the .1 service manuals.

skiahh

There's some hardware differences. The fix was different between the '14s and '15s, with the '14's requiring some hardware work plus software while the '15s only required software.

lightemup67

@Hacked 987 I know it's been pretty mild around the Chicagoland area the last week or two but any noticeable improvement after the intake and EGR clear-out?

User 52121

It's definitely running better - but humidity has also been low. So hard to know how much is just the humidity.

But yesterday, 87F as I went for a cruise to Downers Grove, it ran much better. But again... no humidity.

hotrod2448

Mine is still only marginally better than it was. With Fix 1 there was zero response at times with Fix 2.0 there is a response it is just laughably weak even at engine speeds where it should be able to make boost. Then it slowly builds power like a bungie cord stretching out. I need to clean out the intake tract again.

I'm really torn on doing the alphabet delete and a tune or selling it and going for a Turbo or GTS but, the way it is in the heat and as long as it stays hot down for around here this is a problem.

User 52121

Yeah I'm kinda in the same boat.

Pre-COVID I commuted a lot. So the fuel mileage of the diesel was a big plus, along with the CPO warranty. Now I no longer commute, and don't plan to in the future. So I've been watching for a Turbo to show up at my favorite local dealer.

Problem with THAT idea is - trade in values on the diesels have tanked. Mine's pretty well loaded (PP+ and Burmester), and I paid a bit of a premium given it was one of the stop-sale vehicles... but it seems that trade in values are following my loan balance all the way down - and I put a decent amount of cash down when I bought it too. I **did** plan on keeping this thing a long time... so I'm starting to think that a tune (and keeping it) is going to be the next step. Unless the right Turbo appears.......

AlfaGTA

Not sure why the trade-in value on diesels has "tanked." I've been looking for one for a few months (just got one), and it seemed that any one I found and called about was sold within a day or two of arrival on the dealers' lots--even before they went through the maintenance inspections to get them ready for sale and possible CPO designation. Will hope there are enough dieselheads out there for the future.

lightemup67

Yeah I agree, Porsche just kills you on trade in price knowing that their customers usually don’t want the hassle of selling the car themselves. The private party price seems much higher.

Also, didn’t they change the tax laws where you no longer save big taxes when you trade in? You pay sales tax on the whole price of the new car (not net of the trade in). Could be wrong though. Or maybe just Illinois?

I think the demand is driven by the towing capacity. People seem to want a lux tow rig these days, which helps us out.

I’m keeping mine for a while and will keep trouble shooting/ consider a tune/ TCM code. Don’t want a gas cayenne, and don’t see anything else on the market I like yet.

User 52121

I'm seeing them for sale up by me for high 20s/low 30s. I can tell you my local dealer is pretty consistent at paying auction value for trade-in.... which is, right now, in the mid-20s.

As for the tax laws - that's just under Governor Toilet's regime (Illinois for those of you who live in a place of actual freedom).

He severely limited the tax trade benefit. Prior to Jan 1, 2020 - you only paid sales tax on the difference between the trade-in value, and the value of the new car. So say you're buying a 2020 GT3 ($180k) and trading in your 2017 GT3 ($140k) you'd only pay taxes on $40k (the difference between the two).

This was done because, in Illinois, you pay the full sales tax on purchase up front. (Other states, like Washington, your sales tax is paid partially every month with your loan payment.) Trading in a new vehicle, you got credit for the value so you weren't taxed twice.

Toilet's new law: the trade in tax credit is max'd at $10k. So now, that same GT3 transaction - you're only given $10k of that $140k trade-in as credit on sales tax. Thus now you're paying sales tax on $170k vs. $40k prior to Jan 1. Congratulations - you've been double taxed!

As you can imagine, this hits the luxury car market especially hard.

hotrod2448

I did another carbon cleaning on the charge pipe. It's been maybe 15K miles since I last did this and I scraped out what was maybe 1/32 to 1/16 thick in most areas. I didn't seem like enough to make a big difference but, it does seem to run better at low RPMs. I'm honestly wondering if just unplugging the two butterflies doesn't trigger some type of adaptation clearing or relearning in the DME. We'll see how it does on the way home in the heat today.

lightemup67

Right, so why trade it in? Just sell it on the forum or autotrader and collect your extra $5k. Plenty of buyers.

Or just keep it, tune it, and keep helping me diagnose gremlins (preferred method)

User 52121

Generally.... because I hate selling stuff and dealing with most people. The number of stupid questions, requests, accusations I've had just in trying to sell my track toy... multiple "will you part it out" or "do you want to sell just the JRZs/Rims/Stereo/rollbar", one "will you drive it 2.5 hours north just so I can see it in person", it just keeps going and going.... F**K it I'll keep it, don't NEED to sell it anyways. I run out of patience for the general population pretty quickly.

And, at least, prior to January of this year, the difference in taxes saved vs. difference in trade-in-to-private-sale was not big enough to me to warrant the headache of tire kickers.

But yes... now? Why trade? Exactly.

I still shop around and see what's out there but honestly will probably NOT trade until I leave IL (less than 2 years to go...) or get an out-of-state address and can pay taxes to that state instead (likely much sooner than 2 years...) It would have to be a spectacular deal, or a spectacular Cayenne Turbo to convince me to trade it before leaving.


LOL!

skiahh

I dunno about that. Back in December I was offered $26K on a trade for a Wrangler (I'm interested in the diesel Wrangler, but this was a nice gasser and thought maybe I might get a screaming deal on 12/29 but nope). I just did a Carvana thing and they offered $30.5K. Not including the tax value they add on to their quotes. I've been seeing that used car values are up a bit this spring/summer. It's still not going to cancel the luxury car hit that we all take when buying lifestyle vehicles like Porsche, but better than it has been.

Like you, though, I'm waiting for the right deal to swap for a diesel Wrangler, like 0% for at least 60 months. Or price drops because the new Bronco has a whole lot of winning going on. But sadly, no diesel, though the Ecoboost 2.7 has almost as much torque....

No, here in WA you pay full sales tax up front on a purchase. Your monthly loan payment is between you and your lender and the state's greedy little paws don't reach into that transaction. Now if you lease a vehicle, you pay the sales tax monthly, but I think that applies everywhere. I suppose you could roll the sales tax into your loan, but other than being dumb (paying interest on a tax??, the government doesn't get paid monthly on that because they've been paid in full already.

And out here you also get the full trade value as offset to the sales - correction use - tax on the new vehicle. But you pay it at the time of sale or of registration.

And Use Tax is important, because let's say you moved here from OR or NH which have no sales tax and went to register your vehicle. You'd be on the hook for the "use" tax when you registered, based on the vehicles current value (KBB, I think). Or if you moved from a state with a sales tax, you'd be on the hook for the difference between what you paid and what you'd owe if you bought it now, based on the current value (less any trade in credit). Typically that means you don't owe any extra, but in places like Seattle, maybe with a 10%+ sales tax rate, you might.

But you pay it all up front. Herr Inslee isn't going to wait for you to dribble it in every month; they want their cut up front and in full.

User 52121

One thing I won't buy is a Chrysler product. But good to know Carvana is offering decent money.

I had a friend who bought his CD the same time as I bought my current one try to trade it on a new Q7 and they offered him like $23k on it. Similar CD to mine (nearly identical but mine has Burmester), 2015, Premium Plus, his only had 45k miles on it. This isn't out of line with what's being sold at Mannheim - 20s.

AH

Yes, you are right - I leased the last car I bought in WA (I left WA in January of 2009). I assumed purchases were the same. In Illinois - lease or buy - you pay the full tax bill.

I got absolutely CLOBBERED when I moved back here - because in addition to the pro-rated tax, IL charged me the full difference in sales tax had I purchased the car here vs. in WA, due to the different tax rates.