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I took a 450 mile round trip with the CD last week. It was very hot and quite humid. Car is still driving much, much better than the original fix. Yes, it's definitely laggier in the heat. But nowhere near what it was pre- fix fix. Are we calling that something yet? Fix 2.0?
I took a 450 mile round trip with the CD last week. It was very hot and quite humid. Car is still driving much, much better than the original fix. Yes, it's definitely laggier in the heat. But nowhere near what it was pre- fix fix. Are we calling that something yet? Fix 2.0?
Yes Fix 2.0
I am still not satisfied with this fix. It is lagging alot and losing the fun factor of the car
Just took mine apart. I’m going to stop at the TB’s but I’m very tempted to pull the manifold and clean it along with both heads...
This absolutely will impact performance.
45k miles, 39k of those “fixed” and 39k exclusively on Shell diesel.
1 year, 25000 miles later - performance as referenced in previous posts has been abysmal with the humidity we've had.
I took the intake tubes apart again - and they are easily every bit as bad as these pics from a year ago. Where the tube necks down around the EGR intersection it was almost 1/2 clogged - the corners between the plastic and metal piece were starting to fill in.
I cleaned out the leading edge of the intake manifold, and just pulled chunks after chunks. I tried to slide my bore scope inside and it was useless... if it bumped the wall of the manifold it instantly clogged the camera lens.
Given the performance lately.... I'm back to thinking about tunes, etc.\
Malone tune w/EGR disable, get a little performance out of it and hopefully prolong the life of the motor... at the risk of the unlimited mile warranty?
Or send DME and TCU to the guy in PA to flash this thing back to pre-fix conditions... with a lower warranty risk (he thinks he can re-write the software version number and flash counts) BUT will likely need to de-gunk this thing every year and run the risk of shorter engine life due to so much EGR?
This is my cure from that disastrous buildup, I installed a Mann ProVent 200 filter. I’ve used them on my Japanese diesels, amazing.
I also had the Malone tune done with DPF delete, simply incredible difference a pleasure to drive again.
Even the TCU isn’t to bad, I can manage for now.
I also flushed the two intercoolers out with solvent, firstly draining almost 300 mls of oil out of the passenger side.
I’m also running 5w40 Motul oil, my timing chain tensioner noise is pretty much gone, I’m thinking slightly more viscous oil holds pressure better.
cheers, Murray
Originally Posted by Hacked 987
1 year, 25000 miles later - performance as referenced in previous posts has been abysmal with the humidity we've had.
I took the intake tubes apart again - and they are easily every bit as bad as these pics from a year ago. Where the tube necks down around the EGR intersection it was almost 1/2 clogged - the corners between the plastic and metal piece were starting to fill in.
I cleaned out the leading edge of the intake manifold, and just pulled chunks after chunks. I tried to slide my bore scope inside and it was useless... if it bumped the wall of the manifold it instantly clogged the camera lens.
Given the performance lately.... I'm back to thinking about tunes, etc.\
Malone tune w/EGR disable, get a little performance out of it and hopefully prolong the life of the motor... at the risk of the unlimited mile warranty?
Or send DME and TCU to the guy in PA to flash this thing back to pre-fix conditions... with a lower warranty risk (he thinks he can re-write the software version number and flash counts) BUT will likely need to de-gunk this thing every year and run the risk of shorter engine life due to so much EGR?
Compression Inserts I used. Coalescing filter, I have 2 one always cleaned ready to go. Wash dirty one with Vasol squeeze dry and store until next time. Prefit of parts. Removing Vent hose from Valve outlet. Turbo inlet connection Replacement Vent hose if needed.
This is my cure from that disastrous buildup, I installed a Mann ProVent 200 filter. I’ve used them on my Japanese diesels, amazing.
I also had the Malone tune done with DPF delete, simply incredible difference a pleasure to drive again.
Even the TCU isn’t to bad, I can manage for now.
I also flushed the two intercoolers out with solvent, firstly draining almost 300 mls of oil out of the passenger side.
I’m also running 5w40 Motul oil, my timing chain tensioner noise is pretty much gone, I’m thinking slightly more viscous oil holds pressure better.
cheers, Murray
Thanks for the incredible detail, Murray! I'll definitely put some thought into the catch can idea.
For the rest...
So I wound up diving deep yesterday. I signed up for a single AllData account and bought the shop manual for the Audi Q7 TDI and tore into the intake manifold. It was definitely nasty and full of grime - tho it seemed like it was the worst at the swirl flap end. The port sides were definitely gross but nothing like the rest of the plenum and intake tract. The cylinder head ports themselves actually weren't terrible - they had a very thin, hard carbon layer. I could scratch it with a pick tool but it did take a little effort and was very thin. Since I didn't have an easy way to clean the head (without ensuring none of the chunks got down into the cylinders) I opted to leave the head alone. I bought a "dryer vent brush" from Home Depot - basically a 30" long plastic wire brush. Used a gallon of Purple Power degreaser, soaked and scrubbed the manifold. Made sure to thoroughly rinse it in the slop sink and then set it in front of a fan to be sure it was dry.
While I was in there, I pulled the EGR valve (that thing was PACKED with carbon) and cleaned it up too. I used a couple shots of oven cleaner on the valve (youtube trick) and the carbon came right off. Keep it away from plastic, and don't let it soak very long.
This job sucked, BTW. It only took about an hour to get the intake manifold ready to be removed. Pulling the little "tray" that holds some of the vacuum lines and wiring along the backside of the manifold was tricky.... not a lot of slack in any of the wires or lines, and Porsche taped in these clips to hold the harness down to the tray that are NOT easy to remove. But it probably took me another hour+ to figure out why, with all the bolts removed, the manifold itself wouldn't come out. Not wanting to force it, I took my time... in the end, it took basically brute force and the fact that the manifold, being plastic, can flex a little bit.
The EGR valve removal was the same. AllData said that you just have to "push" some of the vacuum lines out of the way to clear so you can get the valve out... but not a lot of slack. I wound up having to disconnect one of the other fuel rail lines and pull it out of the way to get the EGR out. Given it was PACKED with carbon didn't help.... going back IN, it just slid right in. But removal required a lot of effort (my arms still hurt) and the occasional helpful aid of a rubber mallet. What should've been "2 bolts and pull it out" probably took me another 45 minutes with lots of cursing in-between.
Got it all back together though. It took a very long crank to fire - probably 30 seconds. Understandable since the fuel lines were drained. I fired it, ran it for 30 seconds or so to look for fuel leaks and CEL's, and shut it down. This morning I finished it up (I pulled the underbelly tray because I dropped something down there...argh) and took it for a test drive. Another long crank but this time only 4-5 seconds. My guess is the high pressure side needs to be run a bit and bled. Truck runs WAY better BUT it was only 63F this morning, so I know that played into it. The thing I noticed the most - high RPM performance. That's new, regardless of weather conditions. Deliberately took the highway to grab my morning coffee and 80-100 it still accelerates when the pedal is on the floor. Before, above ~3500 this thing just made noise but otherwise felt flat.
I think I might bite the bullet and order a tune. I don't want to have to do this job every 25k miles to keep it running right. Granted it'll go faster next time but it still sucked... and it's MESSY as hell. You get black carbon goo EVERYWHERE.
I tried to attach pictures but Rennlist keeps giving me an error. I'll revisit later and try again.
Dieselfiltersonline.com is where I’ve been buy the Mann ProVent 200 and spare elements.
I recently bought 2 ProVent 150’s to install In my 2014 Mercedes E550 Cab, the 200 series are to large and fit in the engine compartment.
I’ll try upload some videos on the cleaning of the intercooler’s, might take me a bit to figure it out,
Murray
Originally Posted by Hacked 987
Thanks for the incredible detail, Murray! I'll definitely put some thought into the catch can idea.
For the rest...
So I wound up diving deep yesterday. I signed up for a single AllData account and bought the shop manual for the Audi Q7 TDI and tore into the intake manifold. It was definitely nasty and full of grime - tho it seemed like it was the worst at the swirl flap end. The port sides were definitely gross but nothing like the rest of the plenum and intake tract. The cylinder head ports themselves actually weren't terrible - they had a very thin, hard carbon layer. I could scratch it with a pick tool but it did take a little effort and was very thin. Since I didn't have an easy way to clean the head (without ensuring none of the chunks got down into the cylinders) I opted to leave the head alone. I bought a "dryer vent brush" from Home Depot - basically a 30" long plastic wire brush. Used a gallon of Purple Power degreaser, soaked and scrubbed the manifold. Made sure to thoroughly rinse it in the slop sink and then set it in front of a fan to be sure it was dry.
While I was in there, I pulled the EGR valve (that thing was PACKED with carbon) and cleaned it up too. I used a couple shots of oven cleaner on the valve (youtube trick) and the carbon came right off. Keep it away from plastic, and don't let it soak very long.
This job sucked, BTW. It only took about an hour to get the intake manifold ready to be removed. Pulling the little "tray" that holds some of the vacuum lines and wiring along the backside of the manifold was tricky.... not a lot of slack in any of the wires or lines, and Porsche taped in these clips to hold the harness down to the tray that are NOT easy to remove. But it probably took me another hour+ to figure out why, with all the bolts removed, the manifold itself wouldn't come out. Not wanting to force it, I took my time... in the end, it took basically brute force and the fact that the manifold, being plastic, can flex a little bit.
The EGR valve removal was the same. AllData said that you just have to "push" some of the vacuum lines out of the way to clear so you can get the valve out... but not a lot of slack. I wound up having to disconnect one of the other fuel rail lines and pull it out of the way to get the EGR out. Given it was PACKED with carbon didn't help.... going back IN, it just slid right in. But removal required a lot of effort (my arms still hurt) and the occasional helpful aid of a rubber mallet. What should've been "2 bolts and pull it out" probably took me another 45 minutes with lots of cursing in-between.
Got it all back together though. It took a very long crank to fire - probably 30 seconds. Understandable since the fuel lines were drained. I fired it, ran it for 30 seconds or so to look for fuel leaks and CEL's, and shut it down. This morning I finished it up (I pulled the underbelly tray because I dropped something down there...argh) and took it for a test drive. Another long crank but this time only 4-5 seconds. My guess is the high pressure side needs to be run a bit and bled. Truck runs WAY better BUT it was only 63F this morning, so I know that played into it. The thing I noticed the most - high RPM performance. That's new, regardless of weather conditions. Deliberately took the highway to grab my morning coffee and 80-100 it still accelerates when the pedal is on the floor. Before, above ~3500 this thing just made noise but otherwise felt flat.
I think I might bite the bullet and order a tune. I don't want to have to do this job every 25k miles to keep it running right. Granted it'll go faster next time but it still sucked... and it's MESSY as hell. You get black carbon goo EVERYWHERE.
I tried to attach pictures but Rennlist keeps giving me an error. I'll revisit later and try again.
Thanks for the incredible detail, Murray! I'll definitely put some thought into the catch can idea.
For the rest...
So I wound up diving deep yesterday. I signed up for a single AllData account and bought the shop manual for the Audi Q7 TDI and tore into the intake manifold. It was definitely nasty and full of grime - tho it seemed like it was the worst at the swirl flap end. The port sides were definitely gross but nothing like the rest of the plenum and intake tract. The cylinder head ports themselves actually weren't terrible - they had a very thin, hard carbon layer. I could scratch it with a pick tool but it did take a little effort and was very thin. Since I didn't have an easy way to clean the head (without ensuring none of the chunks got down into the cylinders) I opted to leave the head alone. I bought a "dryer vent brush" from Home Depot - basically a 30" long plastic wire brush. Used a gallon of Purple Power degreaser, soaked and scrubbed the manifold. Made sure to thoroughly rinse it in the slop sink and then set it in front of a fan to be sure it was dry.
While I was in there, I pulled the EGR valve (that thing was PACKED with carbon) and cleaned it up too. I used a couple shots of oven cleaner on the valve (youtube trick) and the carbon came right off. Keep it away from plastic, and don't let it soak very long.
This job sucked, BTW. It only took about an hour to get the intake manifold ready to be removed. Pulling the little "tray" that holds some of the vacuum lines and wiring along the backside of the manifold was tricky.... not a lot of slack in any of the wires or lines, and Porsche taped in these clips to hold the harness down to the tray that are NOT easy to remove. But it probably took me another hour+ to figure out why, with all the bolts removed, the manifold itself wouldn't come out. Not wanting to force it, I took my time... in the end, it took basically brute force and the fact that the manifold, being plastic, can flex a little bit.
The EGR valve removal was the same. AllData said that you just have to "push" some of the vacuum lines out of the way to clear so you can get the valve out... but not a lot of slack. I wound up having to disconnect one of the other fuel rail lines and pull it out of the way to get the EGR out. Given it was PACKED with carbon didn't help.... going back IN, it just slid right in. But removal required a lot of effort (my arms still hurt) and the occasional helpful aid of a rubber mallet. What should've been "2 bolts and pull it out" probably took me another 45 minutes with lots of cursing in-between.
Got it all back together though. It took a very long crank to fire - probably 30 seconds. Understandable since the fuel lines were drained. I fired it, ran it for 30 seconds or so to look for fuel leaks and CEL's, and shut it down. This morning I finished it up (I pulled the underbelly tray because I dropped something down there...argh) and took it for a test drive. Another long crank but this time only 4-5 seconds. My guess is the high pressure side needs to be run a bit and bled. Truck runs WAY better BUT it was only 63F this morning, so I know that played into it. The thing I noticed the most - high RPM performance. That's new, regardless of weather conditions. Deliberately took the highway to grab my morning coffee and 80-100 it still accelerates when the pedal is on the floor. Before, above ~3500 this thing just made noise but otherwise felt flat.
I think I might bite the bullet and order a tune. I don't want to have to do this job every 25k miles to keep it running right. Granted it'll go faster next time but it still sucked... and it's MESSY as hell. You get black carbon goo EVERYWHERE.
I tried to attach pictures but Rennlist keeps giving me an error. I'll revisit later and try again.
Would LOVE to see those pictures of the intake and EGR. I attempted the intake and EGR removal/clean a few months ago and gave up when I couldn't get the intake freed. Did you find Alldata to have helpful directions? I was super afraid to break something and the wiring "tray" was a pain in the ***.
Also would love to hear your reports on how it runs on hot days!
I try and upload a video of the Intercooler oil draining.
Originally Posted by lightemup67
Would LOVE to see those pictures of the intake and EGR. I attempted the intake and EGR removal/clean a few months ago and gave up when I couldn't get the intake freed. Did you find Alldata to have helpful directions? I was super afraid to break something and the wiring "tray" was a pain in the ***.
Also would love to hear your reports on how it runs on hot days!
Ok here's a couple that I took. Manifold before/after. Or more "before-ish" because I started immediately cleaning then realized I hadn't taken pics. These aren't the worst runners as I started attacking the worst ones first.
I don't have any of the EGR "before". It was a disaster and after 45+ minutes cursing at it while trying to get it out, I wanted to just clean it and start putting the car back together . Once I got it clean I relaxed a little. But it was really caked with thick black hard soot.
Manifold port before Manifold port before Manifold port after Manifold inlet after EGR after EGR after Dryer vent brush
Would LOVE to see those pictures of the intake and EGR. I attempted the intake and EGR removal/clean a few months ago and gave up when I couldn't get the intake freed. Did you find Alldata to have helpful directions? I was super afraid to break something and the wiring "tray" was a pain in the ***.
Also would love to hear your reports on how it runs on hot days!
Oh and yes - I think AllData was helpful.
I was paranoid of breaking something too and almost stopped several times. It was usually "okay, ONE last time..." and I'd be able to move forward.
It would figure tho that after spending the weekend fixing a car that behaves poorly in hot/humid weather, the forecast has a couple days of 70F highs...
Excellent job, you can see how this blockage can really affect fuel to air mixtures very detrimental long term.
Many Japanese diesels suffer this problem and have done for many yrs.
It’s common Down Under to go through this cleaning on al makes, installing a Mann ProVent 200 will really help.
Originally Posted by Hacked 987
Ok here's a couple that I took. Manifold before/after. Or more "before-ish" because I started immediately cleaning then realized I hadn't taken pics. These aren't the worst runners as I started attacking the worst ones first.
I don't have any of the EGR "before". It was a disaster and after 45+ minutes cursing at it while trying to get it out, I wanted to just clean it and start putting the car back together . Once I got it clean I relaxed a little. But it was really caked with thick black hard soot.
Manifold port before Manifold port before Manifold port after Manifold inlet after EGR after EGR after Dryer vent brush
So I wound up diving deep yesterday. I signed up for a single AllData account and bought the shop manual for the Audi Q7 TDI and tore into the intake manifold.
I tried to attach pictures but Rennlist keeps giving me an error. I'll revisit later and try again.
I was thinking of signing up for AllData as well, just curious as to why you picked the Audi Q7 TDI manual ? the signup page shows a 92A Porsche diesel option ?
I was thinking of signing up for AllData as well, just curious as to why you picked the Audi Q7 TDI manual ? the signup page shows a 92A Porsche diesel option ?
I didn't see anything Porsche available.... so I chose Audi. Choice goes in alphabetical order and jumps from Nissan to Scion.
07-02-2020, 10:53 AM
. Once I got it clean I relaxed a little. But it was really caked with thick black hard soot.
