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Quick update:
I found out the price of the factory Grand-Am/GTC ducts from PMNA, they are 1100 bucks for the pair. I would seriously consider ordering them if they were a direct bolt-on for my application in the interest of saving time, but unfortunately they're not. I would have to fabricate mounting brackets to secure the duct to the OEM plastic frame same as I would for the aftermarket ducts that I already own. The only difference is the factory ducts are pre-molded to accept VW/Audi side marker light. So I am going to pass on this idea.
Here are the part numbers for the factory Grand-Am/GTC ducts for those who might be interested:
997 575 361 9B , Left side
997 575 362 9B , Right side
Shown in image below.
I have decided to put screens on the DRL openings and then "rig-in" turn signals. The screened openings will channel more air flow volume to the two side radiators(in the same way that a 997 Turbo, GT2, and GT3R does) and the increased exiting flow from the side radiators will go to the front brakes. The pics below show how I secured the screens. I could have just used epoxy instead of making brackets, but just in case I change my mind about using the screens or have to replace the screens in the future the bolt-on brackets is the better approach.
These screens were cut, straightened, and repainted from crashed Cup car pieces. These plastic frames are also from the crash pile that are good enough to use for mock-up. The T6 aluminum is a scrap piece from a previous project.
No CNC here. Just old fashioned hand forming.
The lower bracket is two-piece because its easier for me to make this way. And they provide spring tension against the screens.
The factory threaded holes are used so these aluminum brackets can be transferred to other plastic frames. And I can install OEM DRL lamps if I change my mind on using the screens.
Here's how it looks from the outside. Sorry for the optical illusion from the floor tiles.
Been playing around with LED's from off-road, trailer, golf cart, motorcycle, and emergency responder vehicle. Not sold on any one of them yet. The search continues...
I'm thinking get 8 white/amber LED modules like the emergency vehicle one that you have and mount them BEHIND the grille screen. Maybe mount two at the bottom of the upper opening and two at the top of the lower opening so they're more aligned to the body lines.
a la:
I'm thinking get 8 white/amber LED modules like the emergency vehicle one that you have and mount them BEHIND the grille screen. Maybe mount two at the bottom of the upper opening and two at the top of the lower opening so they're more aligned to the body lines.
a la:
Thanks!! Will need the make a carbon fiber plate to hold those lights...
I've been in a bit of slump in getting my car track-ready. Mostly from lack of time, motivation, and did way, way too much "arm chairing" on custom front turn signal/lighting integration. I have boxes and boxes of different LED lights that I bought from various sources that made the slump worst by having too many options(none of which I was truly happy with). My last attempt for custom lighting was using LED bars to mimic the newer cars.
These are universal stick-on flexible LED bars.
They change from white to amber when turn signals are activated. Pretty cool.
I like this look, BUT the installation is not at all track-worthy. To make this look track-worthy and to my satisfaction, I would have to design a LED bar fixture on CAD and then hire a 3D printing shop to make OEM style fixtures. This will of course take more time and money... At this point, I just want to get out of this slump that I am in so I am abandoning the custom LED lighting idea...
...to do what I said I wasn't going to do. Yep, OEM 997.2 turn signals with built in LED DRL. But I didn't buy the entire 997.2 GT3/RS street car front wiring harness and front control module. Instead, I got 997.2 Cup front "short and streamlined" harnesses just to have the OEM connector ends.
Here's an image of the connector end. The numbers and letters molded on the plastic are PBT-GF10 and 968913-1 C. I was unable to find this connector end separately so I chopped up new 997.2 Cup car harnesses for these ends. I bought the last two of these harnesses from PMNA. If anyone can cross-reference these numbers to source these connectors end please post them for others who may be interested on doing this conversion.
The pin out for 997.2 Cup is:
Pin #1 Not Used
Pin #2 DRL , Yellow wire
Pin #3 Ground , Brown wire
Pin #4 Turn Signal , Black/White wire
Even with the connector ends for the DRL/Turn Signal lamps its so not a "plug & play" situation. Have to consolidate the wiring and unused light bulbs. Its not good to just leave the bulbs hanging because some of them get really hot and will melt plastic(or worst..).
Also, referring to the pin out above, the two light functions shares one ground, which may end up troublesome to a 997.1 front control module...we'll find out later.
Thought I was running a quick test here before the actual installation but it turned out to be quick at all. No dice on the turn signals!
I messed with this for like an hour an and a half and was getting very frustrated over I thought to be a simple task. I even took apart the new OEM 997.2 DRL/Turn Signal assembly to see what's going on. The 997.2 amber turn signal bulbs actually aren't LED that thought they were. They're just standard light.bulbs so more reason that it should have worked. I measured the electrical current draw to find that the .2 bulbs are only 0.2 amp different that .1 bulbs, which in my opinion that's insignificant. So what now?!
With very little to no hope I hooked up my Durametric to check for faults in the front control module and see if I can activate the turn signals via software. I then went to the coding page to coding page find that for as long as I've owned this car the front module was coded for "LED Turn Signals" which happened to work fine will the .1 light bulbs. It was a shot in the dark but I re-coded it to "Non-LED" and then the .2 turn signal worked flawlessly right away!!! That was SO BIZZARE!!! Perhaps the software wording is mislabeled but I don't care, just glad that some how its working.
Before I fled from lighting wonderland I installed load resistors in place of the deleted light bulbs. The load resistors prevent getting the fault messages on the dash. I was methodical, with each load resistor installed I tested the circuit for faults multiple times. Moving On!
04-12-2019, 10:02 AM
, and find a race track...