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Enough with the daily grind. I just wanted to post some photos that makes me smile.
Car has been running brilliantly. Haven't made any changes, just the routine motor oil, gear oil, and brake fluids. The differential is completely shot, so that's the next mod. Until then, the suspension and setup is working so well that I don't even notice the open diff effect.
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TPC Racing stats:
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup Am Champion
2023 Porsche Sprint Challenge GT4 Pro-Am Team Champion
2022 Porsche Sprint Challenge 992 Cup & 991 Cup Champion
2020 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2018 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge 2nd Championship
2016 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2013 IMSA GT3 Cup Challenge Champion
2006 Rolex-24 @ Daytona GT Champion
2004 Grand-Am SGS Class Champion
Speaking of VarioCam bolts.
Can someone post a quick how to guide on physically checking that the etch marks are still aligned?
I assume that the variocam cover is the only thing that need to be taken off?
Will I need a new gasket? Will oil spill out?
It would help me sleep better at night knowing that the marks are aligned.
Speaking of VarioCam bolts.
Can someone post a quick how to guide on physically checking that the etch marks are still aligned?
I assume that the variocam cover is the only thing that need to be taken off?
Will I need a new gasket? Will oil spill out?
It would help me sleep better at night knowing that the marks are aligned.
With the engine in the car, the etch marks are difficult to see, you will need a mirror to see. We typically check the torque while the engine is out for coolant pipe welding or other services. Since these are dry sump engines, removing the cam actuator covers will only lose about a spoon of motor oil. 997.1 GT3 only have actuators, they are on the two intake cams. 997.2 GT3 have actuators on all four cams, there's a vacuum pump and oil lines obstructing the exhaust cam actuator covers.
***Disclaimer: Applying torque to these fasteners is not factory approved. We elect to do so at our own risk. Some versions have aluminum fasteners which should not be torque'd.***
Understand about the torque, didn't plan on checking the torque, just want to check the etched marks with a mirror.
A few more Q.
Is the gasket on the covers re-usable or will I need a new one?
If I need a new one, would you happen to have the P/N?
What is the torque for the cover bolts?
Thanks a bunch. Great thread, I have been learning a lot.
With the engine in the car, the etch marks are difficult to see, you will need a mirror to see. We typically check the torque while the engine is out for coolant pipe welding or other services. Since these are dry sump engines, removing the cam actuator covers will only lose about a spoon of motor oil. 997.1 GT3 only have actuators, they are on the two intake cams. 997.2 GT3 have actuators on all four cams, there's a vacuum pump and oil lines obstructing the exhaust cam actuator covers.
***Disclaimer: Applying torque to these fasteners is not factory approved. We elect to do so at our own risk. Some versions have aluminum fasteners which should not be torque'd.***
Hi Tom
Out of interest, How many bolts are you finding that are either very loose (no torque required to rotate) or just off recommended torque?
I didnt think 997.1's had much of an issue with inlet cam actuator bolts, unlike 997.2 exhaust cam actuator bolts that I am all too familiar with
All the best and keep posting you are always informative for the group
Is the gasket on the covers re-usable or will I need a new one?
The covers use o-rings. As do the vaccum pump and oil line on .2 engines. The official answer is all o-rings should be replaced. Unofficially if o-ring aren't flattened and have no splits then some times mechanics use their discretion. If you have to ask, then you should just replace them.
Originally Posted by DriftKr6l
would you happen to have the P/N?
No...use PET. PET is your friend. Or make friends with your local parts guy.
Originally Posted by DriftKr6l
What is the torque for the cover bolts?
They're M6 fasteners so nominal torque for M6 is 7-10 ft-lbs. I don't use torque on external fasteners though. I just go by what feels appropriate to me.
Originally Posted by DriftKr6l
Thanks a bunch. Great thread, I have been learning a lot.
Out of interest, How many bolts are you finding that are either very loose (no torque required to rotate) or just off recommended torque?
I didnt think 997.1's had much of an issue with inlet cam actuator bolts, unlike 997.2 exhaust cam actuator bolts that I am all too familiar with
All the best and keep posting you are always informative for the group
Hi Mike,
Since torque spec for cam actuators isn't published by the factory, I came up with 9.5-10 ft-lbs of torque using "reverse-torque" method. With this non-factory spec I have came across a number of actuators that move up to ~3 degrees per bolt. The pattern for me has been if one bolt moves, they all move consistently on that engine. My guess is before the 3 degrees of rotation from being torqued it was holding at ~9 ft-lbs. Which is still nominal torque value for the size of the fastener. Perhaps my reverse torque method to determine torque value was slightly over. I have not had anyone bring in a car with a bolts fully loose...yet.
.1 does for sure have less harmonic-related issues reported.
Hope you current engine is running stellar and for many years to come!
Shop i use did some testing on these on the .2 cars and i believe they found the bolts were torqued to yield. I don't recall the value, i think they measured based on stretch.
Since the bolts have etched marks relative to the actuator body, and you guys still physically check the torque, when you have some bolts that move the extra 3 deg, did it mean that the marks re-aligned, or bolts rotated past the alignment? Sorry for all the questions , I'm an engineer, this is intriguing.
Originally Posted by Tom-TPC Racing
Hi Mike,
Since torque spec for cam actuators isn't published by the factory, I came up with 9.5-10 ft-lbs of torque using "reverse-torque" method. With this non-factory spec I have came across a number of actuators that move up to ~3 degrees per bolt. The pattern for me has been if one bolt moves, they all move consistently on that engine. My guess is before the 3 degrees of rotation from being torqued it was holding at ~9 ft-lbs. Which is still nominal torque value for the size of the fastener. Perhaps my reverse torque method to determine torque value was slightly over. I have not had anyone bring in a car with a bolts fully loose...yet.
.1 does for sure have less harmonic-related issues reported.
Hope you current engine is running stellar and for many years to come!
Since the bolts have etched marks relative to the actuator body, and you guys still physically check the torque, when you have some bolts that move the extra 3 deg, did it mean that the marks re-aligned, or bolts rotated past the alignment? Sorry for all the questions , I'm an engineer, this is intriguing.
Its hard to tell the difference of 1-3 degrees of movement since the etch lines don't actually go across all planes of the bolt head. Depending on at which angle you are looking from some etch lines look more line up than others even on an untampered with actuator. Also the curve of the etch lines are not centric to the actuator body making a ultra-precise visual-only inspection difficult.
Here's an example of an untampered with actuator.
Of course everyone forms their own opinion. My opinion is, for a visual-only inspection, if I take a quick glance and the lines look to be 1/32 of the turn off, which is 11.25 degrees, then a course of action is required. That's all the questions on this topic please.
Last edited by Tom@TPC Racing; 09-16-2016 at 07:16 PM.
07-01-2016, 06:09 PM
