Spyerx

FBI tracking device. Quick delete those pics.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=354840

utkinpol

What is the actual logic behind running such front sway bar? I run regular gt3 sway bar with gt2 rear bar at middle hole and after trying all combinations find at one from stiff it only leads to car lifting inside turn wheel and sacrificing turn-in grip this way. Best setup i feel is to have front one hole from soft. Why do you do use such a stiff setup in front?

Btw your track photo on page 20 illustrates that precisely, as you stated you were on street tires and you're lifting inside wheel. do you think it improves lap times? I did not get same conclusion after setting my 997.1 gt3 to full stiff, it makes you scrub front tires a lot prior to entering turn and overall, not sure, did not produce faster times or faster feel.

cavlino

Great information, a ton of great info. Thanks!

Cloudspin

Wish I could help but I have no clue.

Tom@TPC Racing

Thanks!

Tom@TPC Racing

See page 4. It comes down to driving style and preference. This approach is less common for lapping days, even in racing it works for some pro drivers but not others. Gotta stick with the setup that feels good to you and optimize it.

Tom@TPC Racing

Whatever this thing is its gone! Can't believe I traced the third wire through the dash and up to the door molding and the a$$hole who installed it drilled 3 hole in the body. The 3rd hole wasn't even necessary(not that any of them are), there's a factory ground right below it! Check out the horrible solder job that peels off by hand. I should be using what little free time I have to install the data system and not be fooling with this. Deep breath. Another day.

Ur20v

You can see the OEM wire wasn't even tinned properly- muppet installer, good job you found it and relegated it to the bin.

Don't complain on the time... it was a free safety upgrade as well as 'free' weight saving.

utkinpol

not sure. only outcome from such over stiffened front bar was a lack of front control in hairpin turns and overall lack of control as soon as you step on the gas when weight balance moves to rear. plus most importantly I did not sense any improvement of mid-corner grip that for my car is the only element that makes me fast and allows me to catch cars with more HP under the hood - max mid corner grip is everything I tune it for.

Also, if it presumes you are not supposed to steer car at all when you are accelerating it may work for some, but it is an odd style of driving, I do not think it would work for me. May be I do not understand something but this TPC approach with a huge front bar was always something difficult for me to understand.

Tom@TPC Racing

Got to finish the Aim Solo DL installation after work today. The installation was a breeze after removing the lo-jack type contraption last night. Wired and soldered the CAN +/- and used a fuse pigtail lead for the power. Put a notch on the trim panel so it doesn't pinch the power wire. Thank goodness it was easy.

Need more time to play with config, don't think I'm getting all the CAN inputs right now.

Tom@TPC Racing

Was working on a 997 Cup today and thought it was neat that the factory put the accelerometer in the race cars in almost the same location we put the DSC accelerometer. I swear we came up with the location without the influence of the factory race car. They too use Velcro to soften vibration for smoother signal. Neat.

I've never replaced on of these but I bet it cost a grand or more.

ilko

That's pretty cool! Where is the factory accelerometer located in the .2 cars?

Spyerx

I installed mine same way, but used a 4 connector locking plug (any good electronics store) so I can remove the entire device + the cable and still have the tapped CAN +/- and the power +/-. Or move to another car and just install with the same plug.

AIM device is a fantastic learning tool...

If you've used it much would love to see some of the views you like to use for data analysis (if you're willing to share some of the secret sauce!)

Tom@TPC Racing

It is also known as a Yaw Rate or Yaw sensor. All 997 and 987 street cars have the sensor located on the transmission tunnel ahead of the shifter. The location of the sensor is not as important as the calibration and the program for the location.

Tom@TPC Racing

Great idea on the connector. Thanks! I'll get a 4-pin deutsch connector and install it later.

I have a lot of customers who use this tool, this will be the first time using it myself so have to learn my way with the functions. I am planning on comparing lateral-g force between stock PASM module and DSC using the same tires and driving the same line.