Probably not for the reason you're thinking. It's because some fasteners are actually threaded "backwards".

 

Over here there is a reputable tire shop that recommends doing this after any wheel swap (for 4/5 lug cars). They offer a free torque check to all the customers.

For track used CL wheels I would recheck torque after 5-6 laps and after a full session after. That's after installed brand new. After that they should hook up better.

Thanks for letting us know.

 

Anyone have suggestions on how to take apart the wheel nuts (to lube)?
TIA

 

wack it against a board. it will pop apart.

 

Probably a bad suggestion, but just drop it on the ground, ideally on a towel.

 

O.K., today I spent all day making love to Gisele. That girl made me sweat!

I had originally theorized at the beginning of this thread that maybe I had lost a washer in the CL nut assembly. That was not the case. I found it was still on there some time ago. Sorry for not posting that sooner. I did note that nearly every red nipple now has gauling, so next time I change rotors, I'll have to change that hardware. So, the root cause of my problem was the fact that the new wheels had paint where they shouldn't (all the mating surfaces to the hub).

The interesting thing I learned today that I want to share with you all is in regards to the locking mechanism. I had ample time to put everything back together, so I futzed with the locking mechanism for a long while. Porsche documentation tells you that the mechanism needs to come out flush with the outer portion of the splines. I'd only rarely had mine come out all that way. I started to carry a 1/2" socket extension in my track tool bag to jiggle the mechanism. Well, today I didn't give up jiggling and trying until all 4 CL locking mechanisms came out flush exactly as specified. All of them took a good 30 or 40 seconds to get them right. I don't even know what exactly I did to get them to pop out all the way, other than to simply not give up.

I hope someone else can provide a better explanation of what's the story with getting them to pop all the way out.

 

Lar,

I use a bolt that fits into the locking mechanism thread.
Turn it in all the way and just because it is tight it will pop the mecanism out when you turn it counter clockwise again. Not always on the first or second try, but quick anyways. Some jiggle helps.

My red nubbies have some scratches on them but nothing that would lead me to believe they need replacing. Orbit agrees.

10K miles 30 track days numerous wheel changes..

 

Yeah, Gisele's nipples are all gauled because I had all my wheels come loose. I bought GMG wheels for the track. Seems they chose to have some moron paint them, and didn't bother to mask off any of the mounting surfaces. Besides having all the wheels come loose the first couple of days, several of the wheels still stick to the hub when I remove the CL nut - despite the fact that I sanded the paint off. I have to get a huge rubber mallet to whack the inside of the tire in order to free the damn thing!

 

I'm sure the wheel seller will clean up the wheels real good and give you all new red nubbies if ytou ask politely. I would.

 

I'm just advising folks to buy BBS wheels instead. As for the nipples, I've already got a complete set, still in the bags, since I didn't see any reason to swap them out the last time I replaced the rotors.

Oh, yeah... one other weird thing happened today. I have a 3R breaker bar. The socket didn't want to stay on as I loosened the wheels during the torque procedure as I bolted the wheels back on the car. I noted that the spring loaded ball wasn't protruding as it should. Upon closer inspection, I found that the entire square "head" was twisted - a lot! The damn thing is about to break. I suppose the mfg didn't use an appropriate high-grade steel and the new, higher torque spec that Porsche now requires is simply too much for the product.

For those of you who might have this breaker bar, please take a good look at it next time before you use it. I've already written the mfg to alert them and ask for a replacement part.

 

This. Critical piece of my trackside toolkit. Insert in centerlock, squeeze, twist and voila.



http://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en#sc...w=1332&bih=673

 

Ah, yes... this (as well as TRAKCARs) does have the advantage of being able to PULL on the mechanism. I'm going to look into TRAKCARs idea, as I'm a pack rat and have tons of metric fasteners in bins above the workbench. One of those damn screws has got to fit! LOL

 

+1 on BBS. I'm looking for another set.

 

FWIW, I have had no issues with my Forgeline CL wheels and when the tire guys mangled one of them, I had parts within a week. That's a real plus compared to other brands I have used.

 

Seven pages and going strong! Wishing I had center locks.