mooty

I did follow the torque, loosen, re-torque procedure
===> christ, the race would be OVER by the time ur wheels are on.

mooty

no.
the $10k i added up was BEFORE rotors. the entire upright needs to be changed. trust me. i hated it so much that i was going to burn some serious money to fix the issue.

johnr265

I use the pedal depressor and can usually apply enough pressure on it with my hands alone (no, I'm not super strong). Occasionally, if it still slips, I can lightly engage with my hand, than depress the pedal hard with my foot while tightening the mechanism on the depressor with my hands. Have always been able to get it done.

I initially found the CL to be a pain but now can get a wheel change done in 20 minutes, about the same as it took me with 5 lugs. I recheck torque at least once per day during a track weekend.

stujelly

Crap, mine is making the same exact noise from the same place and a vibration at high speeds. I even had an instructor tell me the tire had spun on the rim.

Thats direct from the dealership too, and we discussed the updated torque spec. I smell a problem.

amaist

I recommend everyone with CL have a way to check and reapply torque at the track. The same has always applied to guys with conventional 4/5 lug setups. Why shouldn't that be so for CL?

It is expensive but then you are running a new high spec 911 at the track. If you want to run cheap get a 944

The reason why street Porsches don't have the same CL mechanism as Cup cars is to make it more weatherproof. With a race car the wheels come off at least once per track day and everything is supposed to be checked and cleaned/greased if necessary. A street GT3 may not see the wheels come off for months and be driven in all sorts of weather. Can't have the same exposed system.

Now the actual implementation does seem to have some bugs. AFAIK that is the first attempt to do CL on a "non-exotic" car that will see daily use. Other supercars had CL but it was a more conventional race setup. The problem for track rats is that the GT3 CL setup seems to be intended not to be touched for months when in reality a racing CL system would be more appropriate.

That brings a question. Would it make sense to look to convert to a Cup car CL system instead of looking to go back to 5-lug?

911rox

The main reason they couldn't use the race car setup is the secondary locking system! The race cars use a pin to secure the nut. If you parked on the street and someone removed your pins or you plain didn't bother putting them on after a wheel change, there is no fail safe. If the wheel nut then came loose and flew off killing someone, Porsche would be liable.

It had to be a fail safe, self securing system- thus those splined internal locks... Race care drivers and their teams know the importance of the pins and would never leave them off. Your average lay customer may not thus making the manufacturer liable...

24Chromium

I've got the exact same tool. The way I use it is to push the stick end against the brake pedal and then pull the extension out and rest the hat section against the wheel. Once I've got the thing relatively in place, I use both hands to pull the ends as far apart as possible.

Is there a more effective way to apply this tool? Should I place the hat section against something else (like the seat)?

malmasri

That may be the weakist link in the procedure " the flush locking" I have found it not in the lock position after track set up by Porsche dealer on more than one vehicle and more than one occasion.

24Chromium

Holy crap! It takes me twice as long to do a wheel swap!!!

I decided I'm going to invest in a second set of nuts. That way, they can be cleaned and greased ahead of time and ready to go during the swap. The other ah-ha moment was realizing how much time I was spending swapping the nut socket between the breaker bar and the torque wrench. I'm going to buy a 2nd nut socket so that I don't have to do that next time.

Sometimes, I find the pedal depressor rotates the steering wheel, thus reducing the pedal pressure. What are you using as the fixed point in your car?

rlips

24 Chromium,

I also noticed how many times I was swapping the socket between the breaker bar and the torque wrench and got a second one. I makes a big difference.

ron_dargenio

I asked my tech this morning the very same question (why so complex). His answer in one word: liability. These cars are definitely a worry on a road trip in unpopulated areas. If that stupid tire-goo can't fix a flat, you're screwed.

Targa Tim

that's why my torque wrench is always in the front trunk, I don't expect a regular tire shop to have this.

IRguy

I use it against the seat. Sit in, push the brake with my left foot but using only the upper portion of the pedal meanwhile the lower edge is already engaged with the depressor rubbery end. Extend the depressor and fix it to the seat as hard as you can.
I do the re-tightening protocol, but do not always take the nuts apart. Just apply some grease to the exposed parts. I don't see any issue not to disassamble the whole not if you did it a week ago.

mikymu

WTF Lar ... when will you be able to find some after market CL wheel w/o issue?? I might as welll give you one of my Cup car BBS wheel and see if that works. Cup car has a security pin to prevent the wheel nut from coming out completly

Todd B

I've been using the hat section against the seat and not the wheel. I have the GT2 seats, so there's a nice solid edge for the hat to sit against.