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I think you'll need to line up the torque converter with the flex plate to see exactly which holes to line up - with either the torque converter removed from the trans or the flex plate removed from the engine I suppose.
Thanks WolfK. I actually have the two mated (tranny and engine) so taking the TC or the drive plate off to bolt it to one or the other doesn't seem like a good idea. I think trying to pull the tranny over the TC that is bolted to the drive plate might be a bit of a challenge. However I do have access to the screw holes via the window where the starter was removed. I can turn the crankshaft and move the drive plate right to where the screw holes are to bolt it to the torque converter. I need a really long extension but it can work. Here is a vid of the action I did tonight.
Here is another angle
Never mind the TV voices in the background. I was watching the news.
Ideally, before mating engine to trans, you could have removed the drive plate from the engine, matched it up to the torque converter, mark the two, reinstall the drive plate to the engine, then proceed with the mating process by simply lining up the marks.
Removing the drive plate would also allow you access to the rear main seal, and replace it while you are there.
As long as you confident that your drive plate and torque converter holes are now aligned, I guess you are good to go, in your previous post you were unsure which holes to use.
Ideally, before mating engine to trans, you could have removed the drive plate from the engine, matched it up to the torque converter, mark the two, reinstall the drive plate to the engine, then proceed with the mating process by simply lining up the marks.
Removing the drive plate would also allow you access to the rear main seal, and replace it while you are there.
As long as you confident that your drive plate and torque converter holes are now aligned, I guess you are good to go, in your previous post you were unsure which holes to use.
Yeah, there are 3 holes. I see two of them have threads so those are the ones to use.
Well, was able to line up and attache the drive plate to the torque converter through the hole where the starter was. It was a bit easy. My helper put take on the screw so it would not fall into the engine or the tranny and we were able to screw them in slowly. Now I need to tighten them. Anyone know what the torque is on these bolts?
So I am having to wait a week until the rest of my bolts and the water reservoir get here. I also am waiting on the screws for the axles in the rear.
I picked up a bag of bolts and screws today. I am checking to see if they (dealer) sent me the correct parts as they typically don't. I did have to return some items and there was an item I didn't order.
So I have the tranny bolts now. There is a "hook" that I don't know how to install. This is a picture of the hook from my PET: Number #2 is the hook. Anyone know how to install this item. It is not as easy as it looks.
On the tranny housing there is a bolt on the left side of the hook. I haven't found where this item attaches to the car either. Any tips are welcomed. I hope I don't have to take the tranny apart from the engine just to install this.
New updates. I just finished torquing down the bolts to the drive plate. That part is done and the tranny is torqued down too. Now I have to install a new oil tube. However I read in the manual that I have to remove the alternator This is not good. I can get to one screw but the other looks blocked by the long bolt on the alternator. Has anyone replaced this oil funnel tube without removing the alternator? If so a little help. Maybe taking the air intakes off but then I need to get new gaskets and such. Thanks.
The alternator is actually easy to remove. You have to punch out the "nut" on the back side and then the alternator is free. Look for a removal thread or Pelican Parts might have a "how to".
So I got the alternator out. It was about 1.5 hours. I went to get it tested and the guy at Autozone said he couldn't test it because it was a "special" alternator. I looked at it and it looked like any other alternator. Autozone said it was a double something and they couldn't test it. So I'll have to find another way to test the alternator
Why you want to have it tested? I would not worry about it yet. Once your engine is up and running you can measure the output voltage and see if it is bad or not.
Worst case, if bad, it is easy exchange now you know how to do it!
10-23-2016, 08:08 PM
This is not good. I can get to one screw but the other looks blocked by the long bolt on the alternator. Has anyone replaced this oil funnel tube without removing the alternator? If so a little help. Maybe taking the air intakes off but then I need to get new gaskets and such. Thanks.
