997 S Project Coming
#196
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So the Engine is on the 500 lbs hydraulic cart now. It is also supported by the shop crane as well. Now I can get to parts on the engine like the headers, thermostat, water pump, plugs etc. I will do an oil change before I put the motor in. Now since it's out and now up where I can work on it, what would you all suggest as the first order of business? Thanks
#197
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I took the engine off the engine hoist. I am still not sure it can go onto the engine stand. However I took off the thermostat and it looked new. I took the header off and looked within the chambers. Looked OK. No unusual caked up carbon.
Some bent headers. Maybe from delivery
testing the tranny fit. Was able to clear the rear and push this in place.
Just took the engine off the hoist and put on the hydraulic table. Holds fine
Nice and tucked away for the night
Some bad head..
Some bent headers. Maybe from delivery
testing the tranny fit. Was able to clear the rear and push this in place.
Just took the engine off the hoist and put on the hydraulic table. Holds fine
Nice and tucked away for the night
Some bad head..
#198
Well, you have some aftermarket headers there, are you going to try to use them?
You can always install the engine first, then install the headers after engine is in the car, access is easy.
Not sure why you want to install the engine on the stand, just to service it? Looks like you can do most of your service with the engine on the cart.
You can always install the engine first, then install the headers after engine is in the car, access is easy.
Not sure why you want to install the engine on the stand, just to service it? Looks like you can do most of your service with the engine on the cart.
#200
Drifting
Looks like some nasty clearance issues with those headers. Wacked something hard!
#201
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, you have some aftermarket headers there, are you going to try to use them?
You can always install the engine first, then install the headers after engine is in the car, access is easy.
Not sure why you want to install the engine on the stand, just to service it? Looks like you can do most of your service with the engine on the cart.
You can always install the engine first, then install the headers after engine is in the car, access is easy.
Not sure why you want to install the engine on the stand, just to service it? Looks like you can do most of your service with the engine on the cart.
Yes the cart seems like it will do fine for servicing. I am going to do some basics (plugs, thermo, belt, water pump, oil change (can't do this with it on the cart), tranny filter change. The tranny only has about 25k on it though.
Last edited by ocmacman; 10-16-2016 at 03:04 PM.
#202
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Saaboteur, interesting setup that guy has but don't think I would do that kinda lift though. I have plenty of clearance for the tranny and the engine. Planning on rolling the cart with the engine on it under the car. The only thing that's holding me back is getting the bolts and screws. I ordered from my dealer weeks ago and they never came. Once I get all the bolts (tranny and housing bolts I can connect the tranny and engine and do my install. Quick question, i have two change over valves on the engine. Should there be two? If so one is attached but the other is not. Where would it go on the engine?
Where does this one go??
This one is mounted
Bit of rust on the valve. Will replace both of them.
Where does this one go??
This one is mounted
Bit of rust on the valve. Will replace both of them.
#203
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for following Vern1. Yeah it was either the forklift and the deliver guy or what looks like scraping or running over something. Well I think I am looking for another header or some new headers. I like the style that are on the car and would like to have another set like them, except much more shiny. Looks like the tranny will be an easy job. Not much to connect. The engine actually doesn't have much to connect either. One of the things I have learned working on the 911 is that if you have the correct parts these cars are well made and snap right together. Trying to force anything won't work. I ran into that with the coolant system. I have a 30 day warranty so I am trying to get the engine in and started. If I get all my bolts then hopefully by the end of the month. (or before my wife returns from vacation)
#204
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok, I think I just found out where the other change over valve goes. I was getting ready for Meet The Press (because its Sunday...) and was watching a vid on removing your 997.1 air filter. Well in that vid there was an air hose connected to a change over valve. I think that is what the stray valve is for. However that valve looks like toast so will be getting another.
I think this is the wayward change over valve.
I think this is the wayward change over valve.
#205
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
can this be repaired? I have a muffler shop that says they can do it for about 180.00 or so. They don't do mandrel bent and said that the steel may not be steel they have. Should I buy some new ones or stick with these?
#206
They probably can be repaired fairly easy, looks like you need a short straight section and a 90 deg bend. You can buy mandrel bends in stainless steel from in your desired diameter from Jegs or Summitt.
Besides just looking bad, they will not cause you any issues.
Besides just looking bad, they will not cause you any issues.
Last edited by Wolfk; 10-18-2016 at 09:41 AM.
#207
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Hard to tell just how flattened that one pipe is from the top angle. If it's significantly "squished" causing internal turbulence, it could have a different flow rate for the exhaust from that one cylinder. I would not use it as is. The design of the header looks similar to that of my Fabspeed versions, except they are mandrel bent and all stainless, whereas these look more pieced together. I would look for a set of second-hand stainless ones from a known manufacturer like Fabspeed, FVD, Tubi, cargraphic, etc. Here are a couple pics of the Fabspeed ones.
#208
Burning Brakes
Old dirt biker's trick for dented header pipe, block one end, fill with water, freeze. As the water turns to ice it expands and pushes the dent out. Sometimes it takes more than one try to get the dent out completely.
It's free and worth a try if the wife will let you.
It's free and worth a try if the wife will let you.
#209
Drifting
Great project! I think one of your earlier posts about engine stand and engine placement.
I have used an ATV Hydro Jack for removing my 930 motor several times and works great. Jack rear of car you 1ft and roll motor under and jack up to motor mounts.
I have used an ATV Hydro Jack for removing my 930 motor several times and works great. Jack rear of car you 1ft and roll motor under and jack up to motor mounts.
#210
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you end up going to a Rent-A-Lift place, I've dropped the engine from my 914 by using a regular jack and some stands to support the motor, then lifting the car away from the engine with the lift. I'm not sure how wide a 997 motor is though compared to the space between the lift ramps.