997 S Project Coming
#211
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From: Southern California Orange County
Thanks Pete. I am thinking about just that or something custom. i like the long header style. With the IPD plenum I would like a corresponding header muffler setup so am looking around.
#212
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I have a question. I am ready to connect the tiptronic transmission to the engine. However how do I attach the torque converter to the drive plate. This looks kinda impossible. Anyone have a how to on this? My buddy thought you just bolt the two together. However I advised him that may not be the case. The drive plate is connected to the engine with about 6 bolts. The torque converter is inside the tiptronic housing. My understanding is that the drive plate is bolted to the torque converter so they both can turn. Am I on the right track?
#213
I have a question. I am ready to connect the tiptronic transmission to the engine. However how do I attach the torque converter to the drive plate. This looks kinda impossible. Anyone have a how to on this? My buddy thought you just bolt the two together. However I advised him that may not be the case. The drive plate is connected to the engine with about 6 bolts. The torque converter is inside the tiptronic housing. My understanding is that the drive plate is bolted to the torque converter so they both can turn. Am I on the right track?
#216
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From: Southern California Orange County
Engine is out of the car. So is tranny. Trying to mate them. How do I bolt the drive plate to the tranny. Drive plate is currently attached to the engine.
#217
Remove the starter, or an access plate if there is one.
Mate trans to engine and bolt them up.
As you are looking through the starter hole, rotate engine crankshaft to line up drive plate holes with the threaded holes in the torque converter.
Reach through the starter hole or access plate hole with bolts (no.4 in drawing, there are six of them) pass them through the drive plate and thread them into the torque converter.
Now I am just assuming this, if this engine/transmission is like any other.
At this point you really need a shop manual or something of equivalent for torque values and correct procedures.
Mate trans to engine and bolt them up.
As you are looking through the starter hole, rotate engine crankshaft to line up drive plate holes with the threaded holes in the torque converter.
Reach through the starter hole or access plate hole with bolts (no.4 in drawing, there are six of them) pass them through the drive plate and thread them into the torque converter.
Now I am just assuming this, if this engine/transmission is like any other.
At this point you really need a shop manual or something of equivalent for torque values and correct procedures.
#218
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From: Southern California Orange County
Here is a pix I just took of the engine and tranny tonight. I think a few of you said I wasn't up high enough. Well you were correct. I needed about 3 inches more clearance. I went to the Depot and got some 2x12 cut it in 12x12 pieces and got the car up the 3 inches. Now the engine and the cart fit right under with no problem.
The last 3 inches needed for clearance. Up about 38".
The cart with the engine on it fits perfectly underneath.
Once I mate the tranny should have good space to bolt everything up.
Wolfk that process sounds really narly. I also can see me dropping something in something. Here is a pic of the engine and tranny as they currently sit.
These two need to make nice.
I have a Pet pdf. The torque values are in the 63-67 ft/lbs from what the install sheet says for the torque screws. I am waiting on a lot of screws. My dealer's parts database has been down. I am hoping to have 1st crank sometime before Thanksgiving. Will have video footage of that.
The last 3 inches needed for clearance. Up about 38".
The cart with the engine on it fits perfectly underneath.
Once I mate the tranny should have good space to bolt everything up.
Wolfk that process sounds really narly. I also can see me dropping something in something. Here is a pic of the engine and tranny as they currently sit.
These two need to make nice.
I have a Pet pdf. The torque values are in the 63-67 ft/lbs from what the install sheet says for the torque screws. I am waiting on a lot of screws. My dealer's parts database has been down. I am hoping to have 1st crank sometime before Thanksgiving. Will have video footage of that.
#219
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Hard to tell just how flattened that one pipe is from the top angle. If it's significantly "squished" causing internal turbulence, it could have a different flow rate for the exhaust from that one cylinder. I would not use it as is. The design of the header looks similar to that of my Fabspeed versions, except they are mandrel bent and all stainless, whereas these look more pieced together. I would look for a set of second-hand stainless ones from a known manufacturer like Fabspeed, FVD, Tubi, cargraphic, etc. Here are a couple pics of the Fabspeed ones.
PM sent, and I look forward to helping out with the build in any way I can
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Porsche Performance Specialist
John@Fabspeed.com
215-618-9796
Fabspeed Motorsport USA
155 Commerce Drive Fort Washington, PA 19034
www.Fabspeed.com
#220
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From: Southern California Orange County
So this morning was spent removing the starter. Took a few hours but it is out. How can I test it so I don't miss a chance to replace it if needed. However I may want to replace it so I know it's "new". But don't want to go crazy here.
#222
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From: Southern California Orange County
Thanks for the tip. However these headers are really bent not just dented. To bad it's just the one side. I think I'll have to get the whole exhaust setup as I don't have cats either.
#223
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From: Southern California Orange County
#224
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From: Southern California Orange County
Remove the starter, or an access plate if there is one.
Mate trans to engine and bolt them up.
As you are looking through the starter hole, rotate engine crankshaft to line up drive plate holes with the threaded holes in the torque converter.
Reach through the starter hole or access plate hole with bolts (no.4 in drawing, there are six of them) pass them through the drive plate and thread them into the torque converter.
Now I am just assuming this, if this engine/transmission is like any other.
At this point you really need a shop manual or something of equivalent for torque values and correct procedures.
Mate trans to engine and bolt them up.
As you are looking through the starter hole, rotate engine crankshaft to line up drive plate holes with the threaded holes in the torque converter.
Reach through the starter hole or access plate hole with bolts (no.4 in drawing, there are six of them) pass them through the drive plate and thread them into the torque converter.
Now I am just assuming this, if this engine/transmission is like any other.
At this point you really need a shop manual or something of equivalent for torque values and correct procedures.
Removed the starter and now can see where to bolt down TC and drive plate. The Germans could have been a bit smarter on this part I think.
My days work. One of my buddies was in Sacramento and stopped by Qualified German Salvage. Picked up the screws I needed and we mated the two together for a test fit.
Fits nicely
Next up is sourcing for more screws. The axle screws and not sure about the spacer ring, is that a standard part? Also I need one more screw for the transmission and some nuts and bolts. I guess now with the starter out I can replace my broken oil funnel. I also see I may need to replace the water reservoir as there is a crack coming. Hopefully if I get all my screws and bolts I can have a weekend install.
#225
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From: Southern California Orange County