When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
[TLDR: installed RSS LCAs, Eibach rear sway bar, 4-wheel alignment, Coco mats, and footwell net pockets.]
Here's my latest update on the GTS:
RSS lower control arms.
Eibach rear sway bar.
4-wheel alignment.
Coco mats (black and grey).
Footwell net pockets from Amazon.
I recently got a good deal on a used set of RSS lower control arms. These provide a lot more camber adjustability, as well as a more direct feel with solid joints. With stock LCAs, the max camber you can dial in is -0.8*. With the RSS LCAs, I am running -1.5 front and -1.8 rear. In combination with the Eibach rear sway bar, the car feels so much more precise, sharp, rotates better, and more directly connected to the road. It is a noticeable difference over stock. No extra noises from the solid joints and the ride doesn't feel any harsher either, just sharper. This is a killer combination (especially with a DSC) and highly recommended. I believe the Eibach sway bar is 25mm and the same size as the GT3 sway bar. I read in another thread that you also need to order new GT3 bushings, which I did. But I was pleasantly surprised that the bar comes with bigger ID bushings so I returned the ones I ordered. Good thing because the Porsche GT3 bushings are expensive ($90/pair)!!
I enlisted the help and know-how of my local Porsche tech while I did most of the heavy lifting. Saved me some money and also I learned a thing or three. With his help and access to a lift, it made the job a lot easier. Total wrench time was 3.5 hours for the LCAs and rear sway bar install. We removed the old LCAs and installed the new ones without removing the strut housings, which saves a lot of time. Also, if you plan to DIY, you will need a special tool to press the LCAs out. Overall, the RSS LCAs are high quality and look great when installed.
The Eibach bar sticks out like a sore thumb but looks good when in place. I decided to use the middle setting to start and it feels great so far. I will run it this way for a month or so and see if I might want to go softer or stiffer. Pro trick: fully disconnect the end link on the side that connects to the rear arm but keep the end connected to the bar. Then loosen and remove the four 13mm bolts that secure the bar around the bushings. Completely remove the bar from the car and then remove the end link from the bar while it is off the car. It is much easier this way. Transfer the end links (if you are reusing the stock links) to the new bar before installing the new bar onto the car.
Finally, we were able to do a 4-wheel alignment using a fancy new Hunter alignment rack. It was fascinating to watch the tech do his magic and see the process from beginning to end. The car is really dialed in now.
I also upgraded the interior with new Coco Mats in black/grey. I've owned four aircooled 911s and always ran with Coco Mats. They look great and last forever. Probably a net positive gain of 2-3 lbs but it is well worth it. I also installed some generic net pockets in my driver and passenger footwells from Amazon (
). I got the 9" x 4" pockets. They look great and are easy to install with just four screws into the carpet. They are very secure and adds more storage capacity.
Great build thread! I have the same short shifter awaiting spring install. You mention a bit of play in neutral. The washers used in the shifter body to shift lever comnection are a cardboard like material (probably to reduce wear) and don't provide a tight enough fit. Swap them out for metal washers, should help with the play.
Any reason to go with this set up vs the Numeric shifter? Seems like your only a couple hundred bucks away from having to modify the stock unit with bearings and a Chinese stuff. If one buys the numeric and sells the stock one, its probably around the same cost (Im guessing by the looks of this build, that budget isn't the issue).
I had a Numeric shifter and cables in my .2 GT3 and IMO, it is the best shifter out there for a 997, but the feel can be almost too notchy and hardcore for the type of driving I typically do. That said, it was installed prior to my ownership and it required some fine tuning as it would occasionally catch in the 2-3 transition. A good friend of mine is a semi-pro wrench and he has installed a couple Numeric kits in other 997s and 991s. According to him, it takes a lot of tuning to get a Numeric dialed in. Based on his accounts, I didn't want to deal with the hassle. It's probably not as onerous as I think but it is what it is. If I had to do it all over again, I would have got a Sport Shifter kit from Porsche and installed the Function First bearings. I had the Sport shifter in my .1 Carrera S and it felt just right to me.
Originally Posted by rodH
Any reason to go with this set up vs the Numeric shifter? Seems like your only a couple hundred bucks away from having to modify the stock unit with bearings and a Chinese stuff. If one buys the numeric and sells the stock one, its probably around the same cost (Im guessing by the looks of this build, that budget isn't the issue).
I had a Numeric shifter and cables in my .2 GT3 and IMO, it is the best shifter out there for a 997, but the feel can be almost too notchy and hardcore for the type of driving I typically do. That said, it was installed prior to my ownership and it required some fine tuning as it would occasionally catch in the 2-3 transition. A good friend of mine is a semi-pro wrench and he has installed a couple Numeric kits in other 997s and 991s. According to him, it takes a lot of tuning to get a Numeric dialed in. Based on his accounts, I didn't want to deal with the hassle. It's probably not as onerous as I think but it is what it is. If I had to do it all over again, I would have got a Sport Shifter kit from Porsche and installed the Function First bearings. I had the Sport shifter in my .1 Carrera S and it felt just right to me.
Interesting, mine did require a slight adjustment, but not really too hard to figure out. Maybe my experience of working at a bike shop, or adjusting my race kart or MX bike cables comes into play here. Sounds like you came up with a good solution, car looks great!!
Some exciting news. My custom Augment wheels are inbound and should arrive in a week or so. I'll post more info, pics of them mounted, and some other updates then. In the meantime, here is a preview. They turned out looking pretty amazing. Happy Friday.
I don't know how they achieved the bronze color. I suspect it is a tinted clear coat since you can see the brushed finish underneath. Yes, I believe the center caps are laser etched. It is a cool look for sure.
Originally Posted by Petza914
Those are awesome. Did they paint the center caps then laser etch the paint out in the shape of the crest? That's really cool.
Some exciting news. My custom Augment wheels are inbound and should arrive in a week or so. I'll post more info, pics of them mounted, and some other updates then. In the meantime, here is a preview. They turned out looking pretty amazing. Happy Friday.
I got my wheels mounted with new tires and installed today. First, the execution and packaging by Augment Wheels is top notch. They were boxed with top and bottom cardboard caps and the front and rear lips were tightly wrapped in styrofoam to minimize in-transit damage. To recap, I ordered their Fuch-ish flat wheels with brushed bronze centers and brushed clear lips. I'm running GT2-spec wheels:
9x19 et47 245/35
12x19 et48 325/30
I normally run Michelin PS4s but decided to switch things up and went with Continental Extreme Contact Sport tires. My local shop said the PS4s were backordered for a month+ and I didn't want to wait. Plus, I have mixed feelings about them as they are loud and at the extreme, I occasionally didn't have the confidence I would expect from these tires. Others have stated the same. I've only driven a few miles on the Contis but so far, they seem quieter on the road and feel very planted. Perhaps some of that is due to the bigger contact patches.
First we weighed each wheel: front = 26.1 lb, rear = 29.2 lb. I forgot to weigh my factory Carrera Sports while they were off. These are heavier than expected but some of this is due to the bigger wheels vs factory spec.
After mounting the wheels, the front wheels stuck out more than expected and I was initially concerned they wouldn't fit right. But once the car was lowered, they settled in and the wheels fill the fenders perfectly. Going with the GT2 spec allowed me to run with no spacers, whereas with the stock wheels I had 10mm front and 15mm rear. I'm stoked about the fitment and stance. Today was overcast so the wheels look darker and richer than when they were photographed under brighter lighting at Augment. The color basically changes depending on the lighting, which is cool. If you are considering new wheels, give Augment a try. These are forged custom wheels to whatever spec, finish, and design you want. Total cost was about $4,600 USD plus shipping from Canada (about $300). The only downside is the wait. It took about 3 months to get these made.
First we weighed each wheel: front = 26.1 lb, rear = 29.2 lb. I forgot to weigh my factory Carrera Sports while they were off. These are heavier than expected but some of this is due to the bigger wheels vs factory spec.
Very cool wheels. Look great on your car. I'm with you on the weight though. If correct I have to think they must be cast. If forged, maybe try a different scale to see if you get the same result. I say this since my Forgelines which are the same size as yours (9x19 and 12x19) only weigh a little over 21 lbs. each with the rears obviously being a bit heavier than the fronts.
You say you forgot to weigh the Carrerra Sports. If memory serves, just about all OEM 997 19" wheels weigh in the upper 20 lb. range.
Mine are forged though so if yours are cast it would explain the difference in weight. Whatever the case, no big deal and congrats on a badass looking car