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The coolant leak resulted from improper jacking of the motor using your 4x4. You spread the load across the water pump/oil scavenger pump casting which most likely cracked it or the coolant casting going to the head.
wait, after doing some research and re-reading your response, I think you have mis judged the picture!
the block of wood did not even touch the coolant housing casting. the floor jack was only in contact with the crank case.
what I believe happened is that when I unbolted the 4 engine brace bolts with out supporting the coolant housing as-well, the housing began to sag, thus cracking the end seals and leaking.
You might be able to with it supported, most likely is easier to pull the motor. The
By possibility did you pull out the bolt #30?
If you are pulling the exhaust all you need to do is undo #6bolts and #19, then unplug the O2 sensors and you can remove it. Some times heat is needed on the turbo nuts to get them free but they do come out.
By the looks of it with you messing around with the engine carrier the engine could have shifted causing the 4x4 to come into contact with the coolant pipe either dislodging it from the water pump housing or even cracking it up by #12 by the block from pressure, this would cause coolant to run down the elbow. I would take all of it apart to check each piece as a coolant leak/failure will destroy this motor in very short time.
You might be able to with it supported, most likely is easier to pull the motor. The
By possibility did you pull out the bolt #30?
If you are pulling the exhaust all you need to do is undo #6bolts and #19, then unplug the O2 sensors and you can remove it. Some times heat is needed on the turbo nuts to get them free but they do come out.
By the looks of it with you messing around with the engine carrier the engine could have shifted causing the 4x4 to come into contact with the coolant pipe either dislodging it from the water pump housing or even cracking it up by #12 by the block from pressure, this would cause coolant to run down the elbow. I would take all of it apart to check each piece as a coolant leak/failure will destroy this motor in very short time.
i did remove bolt #30 there are 4 of them. Also represented as bolt #6 in the engine carrier picture you posted. These bolts, bolt, both the carrier and the housing to the engine. I can with 100% certainty say the block of wood NEVER came into contact with the housing. What i can say is that at the very least the housing has been slightly dislodged. As when i tried to bolt the carrier and housing back to the motor the top 2 bolts would not thread. The housing holes were off center to the engine holes. Not by much but enough for me to realize that there are 2 separate pieces that i didnt realize beforehand. I thought the housing was part of the motor until then. Im just not seeing in what way i would have put any force threw the housing, let alone enough to crack it, when it was unbolted from the motor and carrier all together. It was essentially just left to hang.
i would be more worried about a possible internal leak inside the housing from a port possibly getting slightly dislodged and not sitting properly.
I love this thread and your charge-ahead enthusiasm.
But it does remind me that my uncle is missing most of his middle finger because he did not listen to my father explain how much pressure there is on a rear leaf spring.
I love this thread and your charge-ahead enthusiasm.
But it does remind me that my uncle is missing most of his middle finger because he did not listen to my father explain how much pressure there is on a rear leaf spring.
Check the electric wire/cable coming out of the passenger side rear PASM shock. Looks like it might be damaged where it exits the shock. If those two wires short out or have broken continuity you'll get a PASM error and the car will be in full-stiff mode all the time.
Also, you need to remove the silver center bracket that the rear seat mounts pivot on before you install the GT3 carpet set or you'll have a weird hump there.
Check the electric wire/cable coming out of the passenger side rear PASM shock. Looks like it might be damaged where it exits the shock. If those two wires short out or have broken continuity you'll get a PASM error and the car will be in full-stiff mode all the time.
Also, you need to remove the silver center bracket that the rear seat mounts pivot on before you install the GT3 carpet set or you'll have a weird hump there.
looks like that cable is going to turn into a steel braided line connected to a can and a Ohlin.
and good eye with the bracket!
i got something special planned for these.
Can anyone guess what?
Almost afraid to, does it involve a Sawsall? Gotta give you credit though, a lot of folks on these boards aren't even willing to change their own oil. So what's the end game, GT2 conversion?
02-04-2020 | 03:16 PM
