An Updated Guide To Installing Lowering Springs or Coilovers For Your 997.1
#151
Yes, just sits on the pocket... and behind it is the axle nut. Impact it off and tap it inward to unseat it.
I didn't understand your question about the strut top nut though. You don't need to remove it at that point unless you don't have a spring compressor.
After doing this, it's actually pretty easy job. Waiting for my Powerflex rear top mount now. I cleaned out the radiators and installed the grill mesh as well.. since the cari is already on jack stands.
I didn't understand your question about the strut top nut though. You don't need to remove it at that point unless you don't have a spring compressor.
After doing this, it's actually pretty easy job. Waiting for my Powerflex rear top mount now. I cleaned out the radiators and installed the grill mesh as well.. since the cari is already on jack stands.
#152
I’m about to tackle this on my 997.1 with a B12 prokit (Bilsteins and Eibachs).
this video makes things look relatively simple, no spring compressors at all!
i know it’s not simple and am trying to study up and prepare things in advance.
this video makes things look relatively simple, no spring compressors at all!
i know it’s not simple and am trying to study up and prepare things in advance.
#153
I'm doing this on my 997.1 manual right now too. B12 pro kit. Also doing all the control arms, drop links and tie rods. The spring/strut will be way easier going in once it is all pulled apart. Since I have all the control arms out/off is there any reason I cannot start with mounting the new Bilsteins to the wheel carrier off the car and then get the three top bolts installed to avoid spring compressors and hassle with the control arms? I can then put all the control arms back on. Seems like an easier order since I have all the arms off... anyone have objections or concerns?
#154
I’m in the middle of installing a B12 setup. I am having trouble getting the rear toe control arm ball joint separated. I’ve loosened the nut, used a pickle fork to apply leverage I do not want to smack the pickle in horizontally (except when not working on cars ) out of fear of damaging the ball joint boot. I also simultaneously hit the top of the loosened nut with a hammer but still not coming loose. Sounds like I need the leverage type ball joint separator.
ive Also unbolted the wheel carrier side upper rear control arms to see if I could articulate the wheel carrier enough to get the shock bolt out but I’m short by a few mm.
Any thoughts?
ive Also unbolted the wheel carrier side upper rear control arms to see if I could articulate the wheel carrier enough to get the shock bolt out but I’m short by a few mm.
Any thoughts?
#156
Three Wheelin'
I’m in the middle of installing a B12 setup. I am having trouble getting the rear toe control arm ball joint separated. I’ve loosened the nut, used a pickle fork to apply leverage I do not want to smack the pickle in horizontally (except when not working on cars ) out of fear of damaging the ball joint boot. I also simultaneously hit the top of the loosened nut with a hammer but still not coming loose. Sounds like I need the leverage type ball joint separator.
ive Also unbolted the wheel carrier side upper rear control arms to see if I could articulate the wheel carrier enough to get the shock bolt out but I’m short by a few mm.
Any thoughts?
ive Also unbolted the wheel carrier side upper rear control arms to see if I could articulate the wheel carrier enough to get the shock bolt out but I’m short by a few mm.
Any thoughts?
#157
I'm sure someone else has posted this previously in this long thread, but for the front on a 4, I found it far easier to remove the calipers/rotor, undo the tie rod and upper strut nuts, swaybar links, axle nut, disconnect the thrust arm from the LCA, and then remove the LCA bolt and pull the whole thing out as one assembly.
Yeah its a bit of a challenge putting it back in and getting the LCA bolt back in place but not too bad especially with a helper. The front axle on the 4 really increases the difficulty of pulling the strut using other methods.
Yeah its a bit of a challenge putting it back in and getting the LCA bolt back in place but not too bad especially with a helper. The front axle on the 4 really increases the difficulty of pulling the strut using other methods.
#158
Racer
I'm sure someone else has posted this previously in this long thread, but for the front on a 4, I found it far easier to remove the calipers/rotor, undo the tie rod and upper strut nuts, swaybar links, axle nut, disconnect the thrust arm from the LCA, and then remove the LCA bolt and pull the whole thing out as one assembly.
Yeah its a bit of a challenge putting it back in and getting the LCA bolt back in place but not too bad especially with a helper. The front axle on the 4 really increases the difficulty of pulling the strut using other methods.
Yeah its a bit of a challenge putting it back in and getting the LCA bolt back in place but not too bad especially with a helper. The front axle on the 4 really increases the difficulty of pulling the strut using other methods.
#159
When I installed coilovers on my C4 I didn't have to go to any of these lengths to get the front struts out. In fact, all I had to do was loosen the lower control arm bolt (not remove it) in order to articulate the wheel carrier enough to clear the strut top from the fender arch. Spring compressors will make clearance much easier. I always subscribed to the philosophy of disassemble as little as possible and I didn't need to break any of the ball joints, front or rear, nor did I have to monkey with the brakes at all.
#160
I’m in the middle of installing a B12 setup. I am having trouble getting the rear toe control arm ball joint separated. I’ve loosened the nut, used a pickle fork to apply leverage I do not want to smack the pickle in horizontally (except when not working on cars ) out of fear of damaging the ball joint boot. I also simultaneously hit the top of the loosened nut with a hammer but still not coming loose. Sounds like I need the leverage type ball joint separator.
ive Also unbolted the wheel carrier side upper rear control arms to see if I could articulate the wheel carrier enough to get the shock bolt out but I’m short by a few mm.
Any thoughts?
ive Also unbolted the wheel carrier side upper rear control arms to see if I could articulate the wheel carrier enough to get the shock bolt out but I’m short by a few mm.
Any thoughts?
My steps; Though mines is a Turbo, rears are the same.
Rear:
Disconnect sway from suspension arm
Remove top 2 bolts as shown.
Loosen lower shock bolt
Support suspension arm lightly with a jack
Work on upper section and remove strut hat bolts,
Lower the jack and arm will follow.
Use pry bar as needed to remove shock assembly.
#161
Probably too late but you don't need to separate at the ball joint.
My steps; Though mines is a Turbo, rears are the same.
Rear:
Disconnect sway from suspension arm
Remove top 2 bolts as shown.
Loosen lower shock bolt
Support suspension arm lightly with a jack
Work on upper section and remove strut hat bolts,
Lower the jack and arm will follow.
Use pry bar as needed to remove shock assembly.
My steps; Though mines is a Turbo, rears are the same.
Rear:
Disconnect sway from suspension arm
Remove top 2 bolts as shown.
Loosen lower shock bolt
Support suspension arm lightly with a jack
Work on upper section and remove strut hat bolts,
Lower the jack and arm will follow.
Use pry bar as needed to remove shock assembly.
Soooo close but so far!!!!!
#162
Three Wheelin'
It’s fiddly. I benefited from putting a jack and lifting the wheel/arm//carrier or whatever it’s called. I can’t remember whether the bolt liked everything up or down or what but it comes out (or goes in, as I recall going in was worse). it does have a Goldilocks tendency.