AltVelo

Yes, just sits on the pocket... and behind it is the axle nut. Impact it off and tap it inward to unseat it.

I didn't understand your question about the strut top nut though. You don't need to remove it at that point unless you don't have a spring compressor.

After doing this, it's actually pretty easy job. Waiting for my Powerflex rear top mount now. I cleaned out the radiators and installed the grill mesh as well.. since the cari is already on jack stands.

F1 Kevin M

I’m about to tackle this on my 997.1 with a B12 prokit (Bilsteins and Eibachs).

this video makes things look relatively simple, no spring compressors at all!
i know it’s not simple and am trying to study up and prepare things in advance.

thermite6

I'm doing this on my 997.1 manual right now too. B12 pro kit. Also doing all the control arms, drop links and tie rods. The spring/strut will be way easier going in once it is all pulled apart. Since I have all the control arms out/off is there any reason I cannot start with mounting the new Bilsteins to the wheel carrier off the car and then get the three top bolts installed to avoid spring compressors and hassle with the control arms? I can then put all the control arms back on. Seems like an easier order since I have all the arms off... anyone have objections or concerns?

F1 Kevin M

I’m in the middle of installing a B12 setup. I am having trouble getting the rear toe control arm ball joint separated. I’ve loosened the nut, used a pickle fork to apply leverage I do not want to smack the pickle in horizontally (except when not working on cars ) out of fear of damaging the ball joint boot. I also simultaneously hit the top of the loosened nut with a hammer but still not coming loose. Sounds like I need the leverage type ball joint separator.

ive Also unbolted the wheel carrier side upper rear control arms to see if I could articulate the wheel carrier enough to get the shock bolt out but I’m short by a few mm.

Any thoughts?

BillB128

I used this type of separator, though I picked it up at Harbor Freight. No issues with removing the ball joint.

PV997

I put spring compressors on the spring after dropping it down from the shock tower. This allowed it to compress enough that I was able to rotate it out without separating the ball joint.

prestonj67

I'm sure someone else has posted this previously in this long thread, but for the front on a 4, I found it far easier to remove the calipers/rotor, undo the tie rod and upper strut nuts, swaybar links, axle nut, disconnect the thrust arm from the LCA, and then remove the LCA bolt and pull the whole thing out as one assembly.
Yeah its a bit of a challenge putting it back in and getting the LCA bolt back in place but not too bad especially with a helper. The front axle on the 4 really increases the difficulty of pulling the strut using other methods.

TheMurse

When I installed coilovers on my C4 I didn't have to go to any of these lengths to get the front struts out. In fact, all I had to do was loosen the lower control arm bolt (not remove it) in order to articulate the wheel carrier enough to clear the strut top from the fender arch. Spring compressors will make clearance much easier. I always subscribed to the philosophy of disassemble as little as possible and I didn't need to break any of the ball joints, front or rear, nor did I have to monkey with the brakes at all.

F1 Kevin M

I got the front struts out piece of cake. Used a jack under wheel carrier as my spring compressor. Rears wouldn’t be so hard if I could get the shock bolt out!!

AltVelo

Probably too late but you don't need to separate at the ball joint.

My steps; Though mines is a Turbo, rears are the same.

Rear:
Disconnect sway from suspension arm
Remove top 2 bolts as shown.
Loosen lower shock bolt
Support suspension arm lightly with a jack
Work on upper section and remove strut hat bolts,
Lower the jack and arm will follow.
Use pry bar as needed to remove shock assembly.

F1 Kevin M

Not too late. I did all of these steps and still can't get the lower shock bolt past the toe control arm. I'm going to try to remove the center top shock nut (will compress spring w jack) as I think that will give me more clearance to pull the shock down to try to articulate the shock to see if I can get the bolt out. Right now I can't pull the shock down far enough to get the shock mount studs below the shock tower.

Soooo close but so far!!!!!

workhurts

It’s fiddly. I benefited from putting a jack and lifting the wheel/arm//carrier or whatever it’s called. I can’t remember whether the bolt liked everything up or down or what but it comes out (or goes in, as I recall going in was worse). it does have a Goldilocks tendency.