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When I adjusted my rear PSS9 the other week i didn't have time to get tot he fronts to check to see if they were out of specs as well and it was nagging in the back of my head. I finally got in new wheel bolts and had time this morning to pull the wheels and check. While the fronts looked good ascetically, they were way high as well. The blue lines on the paper are the top and bottom height limits for the PSS9s measured from the center of the mounting bolt to the top of the spring perch. Could this be the reason I have had creaking in my front suspension? I'll have to wait until the weather warms up to see if the noise is still there. Now to see who can do a four corner balance near me.
While taking off one wheel one of the wheel bolts came out leaving the ball seat stuck in the wheel. What the heck!?! I didn't know that was possible. After much consternation and debating on how to proceed I finally settled on using a socket head to try to tap it out from the back. I found a 10mm socket which the fit nicely in the wheel bolt hole but too big to go in the ball seat. a very light tap from a 3 lb hammer popped it right out. As it turns out I spent exponentially more time trying to decide what to do than actually doing what fixed it. If all car problems could be that easy!
Bilstin PSS9/10's come with very specific instructions for where to set the ride height. Spoiler alert, it's not that low, like 3/4" lower than factory USA specs. At the low setting my fender lip to the ground measurement is 25.75", any lower is lower than Bilstein recommends.
Definitely not the source of your creaking. Check the swaybar endlinks first and then the strut top bushings/bearing next.
Bilstin PSS9/10's come with very specific instructions for where to set the ride height. Spoiler alert, it's not that low, like 3/4" lower than factory USA specs. At the low setting my fender lip to the ground measurement is 25.75", any lower is lower than Bilstein recommends.
Definitely not the source of your creaking. Check the swaybar endlinks first and then the strut top bushings/bearing next.
So, what would be the point of having a helper springs if they are completely compressed? Why not just move he perch accordingly?
The helper springs are only there to maintain constant force upward when the shock is extended for what ever reason under load they remain compressed.. I have to assume some engineer determined it was necessary.
So, what would be the point of having a helper springs if they are completely compressed? Why not just move he perch accordingly?
Those are flat coiled helpers which are meant to sit fully compressed. They're there only to keep the main spring seated on its perch when the shock is at full extension.
The helper springs are only there to maintain constant force upward when the shock is extended for what ever reason under load they remain compressed.. I have to assume some engineer determined it was necessary.
Engineers... always doing over complicated things for relatively simple solutions...
Originally Posted by SOS
Those are flat coiled helpers which are meant to sit fully compressed. They're there only to keep the main spring seated on its perch when the shock is at full extension.
Pretty sure an engineer came up with that ...
That makes sense, but the car would pretty much have to be airborne at that point.
12-31-2020, 04:20 PM
