`Dock, you're turning into a Troll on the site. Opinions are like asses, everybody has one.

 

If you have something substantive to offer counter to what I have posted, have at it.

This is a discussion forum, and not everyone has to have the same opinion or offer the same information.

 

I went and grabbed a coolant fitting that I removed "recently" This particular coolant fitting has not failed. When removing this fitting it took around a minute or so of heating before I was able to pull it out.




I have circled a few things of interest.

The RED circle shows a void. And voids all around this fitting. It is in these voids or debonding between the glue and voids that will erode and begin the coolant seeping.
These voids or non contact are all around this fitting. BTW, I have seen worse fitting with less glue.

The YELLOW circle shows the gassing of the glue. I show this because one might say that I ripped the fitting out of the casting and left a chunk inside the housing.
Connect the dots (voids) How long before the coolant breaches this fitting. Two other fitting were leaking on this engine (non tracked)
Enlarge this picture.. Look at how transparent the old glue is.

When you drill and then tap and then fasten a screw into these fittings you will put stress on the old glue.

In closing. If you are paying good money to repair and/or prep your car for DE events.. Take the extra step and follow the video showing the cleaning, abrasive scuffing and then epoxy/glue, drill tap and pin.
Ask yourself if you want to pay monies to have a fitting like that pinned and waiting to leak. Would you pay 5K extra on a car with a fitting that looks like that? Some folks have.. Sad but true..
More importantly, if you are in the market for a 996 Turbo.. If the car you are looking at has been pinned>>make sure to verify that they have been pulled out and re-glued.

 

And if you are preemptively pinning the fittings prior to any seepage/leaks and with no intention of tracking the car?

 

You induce risk to your wallet. And open it the second time. You will HAVE to Epoxy the coolant fitting. You will spend more monies to fix the leaking fitting.

It's a old wives tale, that tracked cars only have failing coolant fittings. The above picture is from a car with no tracking history.

 

that's my story and i'm sticking to it!

you should talk to @Tom_W ... in his thread of leaking coolant pipes he had the pipes all welded for a very reasonable price... it's all the 'while you are in there' stuff that adds up... i am also tracking similar to you in terms of when i will need a new clutch. gives me time to save up my pennies to just do a major overhaul at the same time... and maybe some new turbos from @Kevin at the same time

 

how do you find out if it has been pulled out and re glued other than taking a shops word for it? Pictures of said engine out and of fittings?

 

And prevent a coolant fitting from blowing out.

BTW, I'm sure my shop owner would like to come on the forum and discuss this with you (and everyone), but I can understand why he doesn't. And it's not because what he does is risky or bogus or dangerous.

I brought up tracking because I was quoting you. I also mentioned tracking because pinning/welding is normally required if you track the car, so that exception needs to be mentioned. That leaves non-tracked cars where the decision to pin the fittings is made by the owner, and if the fittings are not leaking would fall in the discretionary arena. I didn't opine in my reply to you that only tracked cars have coolant pipes blow out.

 

Considering this is what you sent me a few months ago when I disagreed with something you had said, it is wise to remember that those who live in glass houses, should not cast stones...

 

Pancing, when you look at the top of the coolant fitting that I posted>>you can see the amber ring going around the fitting. You can usually tell with the generous JB weld epoxy that oozes out. When cured it usually is 4 or 5 times larger than the factory ring.

 

Not totally sure why, but I'm proud that we made a 70+ post thread about pinning without ever getting into welding vs. pinning.

 

 

Here's another take. From Shark Werks.

From the article (see link below):

"Won't the Coolant Still Leak from the Fitting if it's Pinned?"

"No, because the coolant does not leak through the original sealant. The fittings simply do not have enough adhesion to prevent them from ejecting. Pinning fixes this. Coolant won't flow through the original sealant. In our experience it has not leaked out and it won't disintegrate. We have seen plenty of coolant lines that were pinned nearly 100,000 miles ago, after years of track use, that were still not leaking.

But if this is a concern for you, there are additional steps you can take. If a line is loose fitting or the adhesive seems less consistent, we will heat and remove the tube, clean it with gasket remover / paint stripper, and reseal it with green loctite and activator. Then it's pinned in place. Some people even apply JB Weld over the outer connection (which seems unnecesary or overkill).

If a tiny leak ever does develop in the sealant in the future, you could drain the coolant, remove the pin, eject the line, and re-seal it. That would likely fix it for another 20 years. This is a non catastrophic failure and not much case for alarm."

Link--> https://www.sharkwerks.com/tech-arti...gt2-turbo-cars

 

don't know about anyone else. but if this debate continues to keep dock off the streets of ATL? i'm all for it lol

 

I go nowhere NEAR any of the problem areas in ATL. I did get out Sunday, but it was a straight shot North to the mountains.