blown engine
#466
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I made the following flange to lock the pipe and used a 12oz hammer to lightly tap the clip in. It works. Tap, tap, tap, "Ping". You can hear the clip went in. The tool was locked solidly and nothing moves. The principle is correct. HOWEVER, I would recommend building it ONLY if you can find a pipe and plunger with even closer dimensions to the the factory tool.
The 3/4" electrical conduit is the closest I can find but it still has a slightly smaller diameter and thicker wall than the factory tool. The 15mm craftsman socket I use fits snugly into the 3/4" pipe but it's slightly skinnier than the wrist pin (the factory tool plunger has the same size as the wrist pin). There are 2 issues because of the OFF dimensions:
1) the smaller diameter requires the clip to be compressed more than necessary. That tend to destroy the tension of the clip if you repeatedly install the same clip over and over.
2) the 15mm socket may jam (caught by the fully seated clip) if you slam it very hard. No big deal as you can wiggle the socket out after you retrieve the pipe, at least on the 3.6L engine where there's more room to access from the adjacent cylinder.
So in conclusion the factory tool has the best dimensions, it won't over-compress the clip and the plunger won't jam. The only thing I don't like is the tool is not locked to the engine case and you have to keep pressure on the pipe consciously the whole time after it's fully seated and until you drive the clip in, while in the meantime you want to check with a borescope. I'll probably just make do with the factory tool though.
![Name: 0302162106_HDR (Small).jpg
Views: 1197
Size: 58.8 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/996-forum/1026818d1457025114-blown-engine-0302162106_hdr-small-.jpg)
![Name: 0302162118a_HDR (Small).jpg
Views: 1109
Size: 79.6 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/996-forum/1026819d1457025114-blown-engine-0302162118a_hdr-small-.jpg)
![Name: 0302162118b_HDR (Small).jpg
Views: 1109
Size: 83.2 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/996-forum/1026820d1457025114-blown-engine-0302162118b_hdr-small-.jpg)
The 3/4" electrical conduit is the closest I can find but it still has a slightly smaller diameter and thicker wall than the factory tool. The 15mm craftsman socket I use fits snugly into the 3/4" pipe but it's slightly skinnier than the wrist pin (the factory tool plunger has the same size as the wrist pin). There are 2 issues because of the OFF dimensions:
1) the smaller diameter requires the clip to be compressed more than necessary. That tend to destroy the tension of the clip if you repeatedly install the same clip over and over.
2) the 15mm socket may jam (caught by the fully seated clip) if you slam it very hard. No big deal as you can wiggle the socket out after you retrieve the pipe, at least on the 3.6L engine where there's more room to access from the adjacent cylinder.
So in conclusion the factory tool has the best dimensions, it won't over-compress the clip and the plunger won't jam. The only thing I don't like is the tool is not locked to the engine case and you have to keep pressure on the pipe consciously the whole time after it's fully seated and until you drive the clip in, while in the meantime you want to check with a borescope. I'll probably just make do with the factory tool though.
![Name: 0302162106_HDR (Small).jpg
Views: 1197
Size: 58.8 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/996-forum/1026818d1457025114-blown-engine-0302162106_hdr-small-.jpg)
![Name: 0302162118a_HDR (Small).jpg
Views: 1109
Size: 79.6 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/996-forum/1026819d1457025114-blown-engine-0302162118a_hdr-small-.jpg)
![Name: 0302162118b_HDR (Small).jpg
Views: 1109
Size: 83.2 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/996-forum/1026820d1457025114-blown-engine-0302162118b_hdr-small-.jpg)
![Name: 0302162135_HDR (Small).jpg
Views: 1144
Size: 37.5 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/996-forum/1026821d1457025114-blown-engine-0302162135_hdr-small-.jpg)
#469
Racer
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ahsai,
Glad to see how things are coming along. Totally impressed with what you've been doing to my (not really that) old 996. Definitely want to see/hear it when you're done.
When you're done, you should thing about putting all your posts together is a single document so others can see how it's done.
Glad to see how things are coming along. Totally impressed with what you've been doing to my (not really that) old 996. Definitely want to see/hear it when you're done.
When you're done, you should thing about putting all your posts together is a single document so others can see how it's done.
#472
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Haha, no no, you first. Kinda like lining up for a sky diving try out.
I think if one can rebuild an engine, one can probably be able to design and fab these tools easily anyway ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks! You'll be the first to hear from me once it's running. My posts are just for entertainment. For the real stuff, people should wait for and use Jake's book.
Indeed, we do have quite a few SoCal folks here. A few of my fellow classmates in Jake's class immediately offered help once they saw my rebuild msg. One lives like 60 miles away! Thank you so much, folks!
I think the optimum will be Jake's faultless tool
but you're right that if we can somehow lock the stock tool tube onto a flange at different lengths (for different cylinders) that would be a BIG improvement over the stock tool.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Ahsai,
Glad to see how things are coming along. Totally impressed with what you've been doing to my (not really that) old 996. Definitely want to see/hear it when you're done.
When you're done, you should thing about putting all your posts together is a single document so others can see how it's done.
Glad to see how things are coming along. Totally impressed with what you've been doing to my (not really that) old 996. Definitely want to see/hear it when you're done.
When you're done, you should thing about putting all your posts together is a single document so others can see how it's done.
Indeed, we do have quite a few SoCal folks here. A few of my fellow classmates in Jake's class immediately offered help once they saw my rebuild msg. One lives like 60 miles away! Thank you so much, folks!
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#478
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's still a long way to go. Should be sending the block to LNE this week then will have to wait for 8 wks for it to turn around.
#479
Racer
#480
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In Jake's class, he taught us we should have a combat mentality with engine rebuilding....treat the engine as an enemy trying to kill you (or your wallet). So you want to stay alive by being very careful and address as many issues as we need to bullet prove the engine. Only one shot to get it right.
I interpreted that as attention to details is required and every single part and correct fitment counts![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Weighing the engine case was just natural as I need to get a shipping quote haha
I interpreted that as attention to details is required and every single part and correct fitment counts
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Weighing the engine case was just natural as I need to get a shipping quote haha