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He recommended another Amsoil made for European cars, but he sells car parts and is no oil expert. He actually said that it is yet to be proven to him that using one oil is the reason why An engine blew up and not the other!! Lol Ok Mike (He knows my history of blowing up engines) Nobody never asked for that oil before to track their car, he said it was an old formula. That's it
Mike at no limits?
He doesnt know porsches liek Jake does so I would take Jake's recommendation over Mike's everyday. Mike's a really great guy but he doesnt know pcars like Jake does.
He told me the exact same thing when I went there to pick up my joe gibbs break in oil. "Why are you running this in your porsche?"
He doesnt know porsches liek Jake does so I would take Jake's recommendation over Mike's everyday. Mike's a really great guy but he doesnt know pcars like Jake does.
He told me the exact same thing when I went there to pick up my joe gibbs break in oil. "Why are you running this in your porsche?"
OK, here's my latest Blackstone report. Next one will be through RND but I already had these sample kits. 3 different columns. Far right is when I bought the car and took a sample of the oil while changing to XP9. Middle column is XP9 after 1 AutoX. The high silicon is from dropping the sump to clean and check for debris. I also changed the filter to the spin on adapter at this time (changed filter only, not oil).
The left most column is after 2.5 hours of track time at Motorsports Ranch on a 97F degree day. I expected the oil to hold up well but was still pretty impressed with the results. I also thought it was interesting that the iron content dropped after switching to the spin on filter.
Last two UOA's. I have a decent amount XP9 stocked up so I will continue to use Blackstone until it's gone since RND Euro won't sell the UOA without buying oil from them.
I'm not sure the mileage is correct but there was 6 hours on the first and 7.5 hours on the second. The engine was running hotter on the first one due to the tire wall causing issues with the radiator ducting and the oil temps were running around 240. This seemed to wear through the additives quicker.
The 2nd analysis had the ducting fixed. I'm running water with water wetter and the oil temp typically doesn't show over 215.
Last two UOA's. I have a decent amount XP9 stocked up so I will continue to use Blackstone until it's gone since RND Euro won't sell the UOA without buying oil from them.
I'm not sure the mileage is correct but there was 6 hours on the first and 7.5 hours on the second. The engine was running hotter on the first one due to the tire wall causing issues with the radiator ducting and the oil temps were running around 240. This seemed to wear through the additives quicker.
The 2nd analysis had the ducting fixed. I'm running water with water wetter and the oil temp typically doesn't show over 215.
That one is sucking up the additive package badly, but with the TBN off the chart too, it looks like our friends at Blacksto e may have their calibration set up from a prior version of XP9.
i have never seen XP9 with that low of TBN, or such low anti- wear package. If the calibration is correct, this engine has something sucking the life out of the oil.
Oil temp of 215 on track? Don't believe it! Where is the sensor located and what instrument are you using?
I thought the TBN looked low. The first test was from what came in it. July and October tests were all on the same oil and then it was changed.
Oil temp is as reported by my AIM dash which is tapped into the stock sensor. I've verified it with the Durametric but I know there is debate as to it's accuracy....
Ok, went back and reviewed the data. Oil temp low 240s late October, 230s mid November, high 220's late November. Water temp went from high 190s with air flow issue to 170s when fixed. Running center radiator and no condenser or fans. When letting the engine cool down, after cool down lap, I let it sit until oil temp is the same as water temp, usually around 200F. Not sure if this is right but don't really want the water getting much hotter.
Interesting. The original 5 silicone had an Evoms kit on it. The 23 was shortly after dropping the sump. But I would have expected the last one to have gone down as the oil had been changed once since dropping the sump and the oil filter 4 times.
This is is my first UOA. It was included with the case of DT40 from RND Euro. ALS Tribology performed the UOA. My car had about 74,500 miles on her when I sent in this sample. The oil was 9 months old and had 5257 miles on it.
63k miles on my 02 C4S. I bought the car 7 months ago and have logged over 16k miles. Original IMS bearing. Going to update my IMS when I do the clutch or before another year and a half. Any comments on my UOA would be appreciated.
USNA1970, looks great. Way to drive it. Nice. Keep enjoying. Notice how the wear metals dropped like a rock under your care, driving style, and maintenance regiment. That's what you want to see.
When I got the car, I had no idea when the last oil change was. The car had a carfax with 47 entries and showed that the clutch was done at 38k miles. The dealer said that the IMSB was fine and didn't not change it. Looks like maintenance was maintained pretty well by the PO. However, it looks like oil changes were done closer to the Porsche recommended interval.
From my report you can see that I changed the oil 5 times in 7 months. I think I will start doing 3 oil changes a year and continue to get UOAs. That will put me at about 6-7k miles per oil change. However, I am adding about 1 qt of oil every 1200 miles. Although I am not happy that I use that much oil, it does keep the oil a little fresher. I also make sure that the oil is at the top of the fill line at all times. I check it every few days manually. I always check the dash meter before starting.
I used Mobil 1 0w40 for first two oil changes, then I went to redline 0w-40 for one change and now I am settled on Motul 5w40 for last two oil changes. I will probably stay with Motul for a while as it is almost half the price of Redline. Plus, my UOA reports might be easier to follow if I don't keep changing oil brands etc. lol
As far as driving. I keep the revs under 3500 for first 5-10 minutes of driving. I usually accelerate pretty hard on highway on ramps, although all my high revs are usually no more than 5500 rpm. Much of my driving is on the highway and I use 5th gear more than 6th gear depending on traffic. Basically I like to keep RPMs around 3k while cruising. When I am done driving I usually let the car idle for about 30-40 seconds before I shutdown.
Lastly, I always inspect the oil filter and magnetic drain plug. I know that my IMSB could be perfect today and explode tomorrow. I guess I am just hopeful that what I am doing will allow it to last until time to replace clutch. That could be a long time as I am easy on the clutch.
Feel free to comment on my driving style with respect to prolonging the life of the engine. I appreciate any advice.
Lol Ok Mike (He knows my history of blowing up engines) Nobody never asked for that oil before to track their car, he said it was an old formula. That's it
