WrngCLD

OK I can't believe it took me this long to realize that you don't need to remove the entire bolt in order to swing the whole spring assembly down. As long as the hex portion clears it's head, that portion of the spring can be pulled out. With the clutch pedal depressed, there is an opening kind of like a C. I thought it was completely isolated within the black bracket. Go figure.

Pedal modulation is muuuuuch smoother. Not sure if my spring is damaged or just old, but there's no more sticky pedal feel. I didn't notice it being any heavier than with the spring on so maybe it was damaged.

808Bill

Glad you figured it out.
I went out last night to check mine in an attempt to help you and wound up pinching a muscle and then cramped up. At 6'1" with wide shoulders I'm going to pull my seat next time before trying to get under there! I think I have a broken spring but everything is still functioning.

WrngCLD

Lol definitely do your stretches before getting in there. Once I figured it out it took less than a minute start to finish

808Bill

Also, if you have aluminum pedals, put a sock or two over them!

ssgunny

My CC was not working although the light would illuminate on the dash. I saw that the clutch pedal was not returning far enough to engage the switch. I bought the Home Depot (SKU 684838) spring that I saw suggested in another post to have on hand while I investigated. I removed the cylinder and noticed the much beefier stock spring had broke in half. I replaced it with the new spring and the pedal returns to activate the switch now so assume the CC will work now.

blacksquid

Yeah, I've got the squeak. It's annoying and now I know how to correct it.

I also had the Clutch Delay Valve on my 2007 MCoupe! That was a bad piece of engineering.

arscottp

Bumping this thread.
Just found about about this and removed the spring from my turbo. 10x better. Everyone should know about this

Johnny DB

Same! I wonder though if the upper pivot point will be affected/wear prematurely because it's the only support now and has more side to side play...

TexSquirrel

I just replaced mine. (It had been broken since I bought the car)
I'm going to have to get used to the lighter clutch, especially before I hit stop and go traffic.
I like the clutch feel with the helper spring.
It's going to be much better for my aging knee.
No more thoughts about a tiptronic swap.

brontosaurus

So I realize this is probably blasphemy, but I'm thinking about adding the spring back into my car as it's a GT3 and I also am plagued with a slight knee issue. I'm trying to use my glute to push the clutch more these days, but I'm thinking this would be helpful as well.

Anyone have a spare assembly they don't want that they'd like to sell me?

edit: nevermind.. these are cheap, I'm just going to buy a new one. I see PN 996-423-081-18-OEM. Is this the same for all 996, or does the Turbo have a different PN?

Johnny DB

why not order the GT3 part? If you order the Turbo you’ll be in the same boat/pedal effort as before

brontosaurus

My understanding is that neither of the 996 GT cars had the spring present. I should actually look under there

theprf

The Turbo uses a different much softer clutch power spring - don't use the Turbo clutch power spring! It's designed for the power-assisted clutch on the Turbo.
The GT3, GT2, normally aspirated M96 powered cars, and even the Boxster use the same clutch power spring and that's the one you want.
Yes the 996-423-081-18 is the current part#. BTW, pelican is selling these at higher than dealer cost....

brontosaurus

Ahh, ok, thank you for the clarification! Much appreciated

Johnny DB

Agree with this...use 2 hands and you'll be fine