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I dont think u can without going into the dme or an aftrermarket dme. Easiest thing to do is cut the pill out of the key and epoxy it to the column. Then u can use a start button or just a cheap key blade to start
Window switch wiring moved up to din where switches will be mounted in my CF delete plate.
I've been planning on getting my son to create a 3D model of one of these and then he/I can print them for those that want them.
Obviously this one is not the nicest looking piece.
I've been tackling some of the most fiddly jobs I can imagine.
The A/C compressor rear bolt was hard because of visibility but once I positioned my cheapo amazon borescope and removed the air temperature sensor and grommet from between cylinders 4/5 it went ok. Although it was still tough to keep the socket (+extensions) fully aligned with the bolt head. Once removed, I thought about ordering new bolts as I slipped more than once but it seems you cannot remove the bolt from the compressor? Either that or the way the a/c lines are connected to my compressor makes it impossible to get this bolt off the compressor without draining the system...
The AOS top hose was a major pain to remove. As the transmission was already out, I also lowered the two front engine mounts by 3-4 inches, but I feel I still needed a lot more space. The plastic clips were hard to get enough force on them, there is a knack to removal and I found it as the second plastic connector was much easier to remove. I imagine the Porsche technician who fitted the AOS had a good laugh over his Bratwurst sandwich at the way he managed to hide the top circlip underneath the hose inlet to the AOS... But eventually I managed to rotate it just enough with a small lever to attach a small pair of locking pliers onto it. I will order pneumatic hose clamp pliers soon.. The condition of the old AOS looked very good though... Is there a way to test this off the car? (I have a manometer)
I guess it is all part of the learning process. I'm sure if I did these jobs again it would take a fraction of the time. (well maybe not the AOS hence the UAOS solution, which I probably should have ordered but I want to keep the car close to oem for now)
TRLBRAKER your post was especially timely and you inspired me to take a trip to my local HF on the way home from work last night to pickup a bore scope for todays activities...
Goodbye god damn AC compressor and lines in the engine bay - so much room for activities... In all seriousness, with it out of the way regular servicing and inspection of the engine bay will be a lot easier than it was.
PS - the thing is a bit of a MF'er to get out...
And goodbye AC condensers blocking ANY air from getting to the rads, grabbed the accessible piping while I was in the area.
When all was done for the day I was left with this glorious pile - if anyone wants the AC compressor and wants to pay for shipping - it's yours. Worked fine last time I used it. That said, I haven't touched my AC in a year, my test to make sure I could live with it after removal was to not use AC in the car all summer, it was easy, so for the weight reduction, additional real estate when servicing and making repairs - off she went. I'll pull all the rest of the lines when I switch to electric PS - this will do for now.
Pro actively Replaced a 21 year old OEM water pump and thermostat. The Bearing felt great, all fins intact and looked perfect . Hardest part of the whole job was getting the rubber hoses off the pump and thermostat housing . They became glued on over the years. While I was in there I replaced the 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley. Next project is plugs and coils
pro tip: LN engineering has a great deal on the water pump package only $350 for the oem pump, belt, thermostat, thermostat tool, new bolts ,gaskets and driven coolant additive.
I imagined without the hydraulic fluid circulating due to pump removal there could be hotspots if driven hard thru twisty roads?
No fluid in AC lines. When I swap to electric power steering the entirety of both systems will come out so no worries there.
The electric setup mounts the pump/reservoir in the frunk with lines running direct to the rack. Pretty slick setup and can be hooked up to a switch to turn on and off. For instance, while maneuvering around the paddock it can be on and when headed out on track can be shut off...
01-13-2021, 09:04 PM
