When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bought mine today! I'm pretty excited! Cosmetically it looks pretty worn but it runs great and made the 200 mile trip home at 75mph with the air blowing cold.
Congrats, harrismi! Always a great day when you bring it home. How about a few pictures.
I just added some photos to my post. Previous owner bought it in 1999 and the title says it had 5100 miles on it back then. He said he bought it when it was 3 months old. CARFAX says it’s one owner. It’s at 99.4k miles so I’ll be the one to drive it over 100k. It’s always been a South Carolina car as far as I can tell. Kind of basic except for the dual power seats with driver’s memory.
Good news: I got the lip spoiler installed that I wanted to try for track performance
Bad news: The part is now installed, is raw plastic and needs to be painted while on the car
Question: Any advice to getting this part primed and painted flat black on the car in my garage?
Thanks in advance!
Good news: I got the lip spoiler installed that I wanted to try for track performance
Bad news: The part is now installed, is raw plastic and needs to be painted while on the car
Question: Any advice to getting this part primed and painted flat black on the car in my garage?
Thanks in advance
From the photo, it looks like it came with primer on it already. I don't think flat black needs much primer (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) anyway. It seems like you could just shoot it with flat black plastic paint yourself. It's impossible to screw up (or excel) at flat black unless you put so much on that it runs.
I'm confused why you can't just remove it and paint it rather than needing to paint it on the car. If it's due to time limitations, maybe track it as is and then paint it after (you will probably get chips on the track anyway).
From the photo, it looks like it came with primer on it already. I don't think flat black needs much primer (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) anyway. It seems like you could just shoot it with flat black plastic paint yourself. It's impossible to screw up (or excel) at flat black unless you put so much on that it runs.
I'm confused why you can't just remove it and paint it rather than needing to paint it on the car. If it's due to time limitations, maybe track it as is and then paint it after (you will probably get chips on the track anyway).
Thanks for the response. I think it is just gray plastic, it doesn’t fee like it has primer on it. Ok, so then mask everything off and rattle can it? Is there a brand or type that is best?
Difficult to remove now, the Indy put it on (per my instructions) with about 9 fasteners and double sided tape.
I like SEM for plastic trim but the Krylon stuff I'm sure would be fine and it's cheaper and easier to find.
I don't have experience with either one, but from what I've heard about SEM and given that SEM is made for flexible plastic, it's probably worth getting the SEM. Krylon seems more like regular paint that is for hard surfaces.
Dropped the sump plate over the weekend and am satisfied with what I found--just a few small bits of plastic. Not unreasonable for a 115k mile car. I only wish I knew if the plate had ever been removed prior...
I changed my oil last weekend and had this surprise. Freaked me out for a minute but Jake talked me down off the roof and pointed out to me that the grade of bolt it was pretty much meant it was from the sump. As soon as he told me that, I knew what it was and knew that I had done a dumb thing but got away with it.
The last time I took the sump plate off, I removed the baffle to keep from getting gasket remover on it. When I packaged the car up to send it to FSI for them to replace the timing chains (because I found a roller in the sump), I just hand-tightened the 3 bolts that hold the baffle in because I didn't know what to torque them to. I let FSI know that, but ultimately, it was my responsibility to properly mark that these were loose, or to torque them. Having taken the Knowledge Gruppe's M96 hands-on rebuild class I now know (and I kind of knew before) that if the bolts are in, they should be torqued, otherwise they should not be installed. Worst case, mark them as "loose" on a piece of bright masking tape.
Take aways:
The LN magnetic plug paid for itself
If it's in, torque it and mark it
The M96 hands-on class taught me a lot of useful techniques and now doing something like dropping the sump cover is "no biggie"
If you are going to change your own oil, you may end up dropping the sump cover so go ahead and order a tube of Drei Bond now--I've been waiting 9 days for mine
If you live in Atlanta and need Drei Bond, get it from Hennessy because they can get it in a couple of days.
Even though Drei Bond is used on BMWs, the BMW dealer treats it like a controlled substance, doesn't have it in stock, and won't order it for you.
06-28-2019, 10:27 AM
