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What a difference beginning and end of week can make . Dropped the car off on Monday, picked it up today.
Done:
- polished paint
- front bumper Euro Turbo swap
- replaced orange turn signals with white
- added Turbo scoops
- added new center caps in color
- replaced old yellowish headlight lenses with new ones.
What a difference beginning and end of week can make . Dropped the car off on Monday, picked it up today.
Done:
- polished paint
- front bumper Euro Turbo swap
- replaced orange turn signals with white
- added Turbo scoops
- added new center caps in color
- replaced old yellowish headlight lenses with new ones.
Replaced dead fog light bulbs yesterday. (they double as daytime running lights in Canada)
Took an early drive north of Vancouver this morning to make sure they worked.
Last edited by max911; 05-02-2021 at 09:34 PM.
Reason: spelling
yup, Rubystone. Original color is arctic silver. The rubystone is not permanent paint, its a Water-borne based peelable paint. You can wet stand, compound, polish, clearbra, ceramic coat etc like OEM paint.
When I bought my car a few months back, one of the things I looked at was the door check mounts and both seemed good and not cracked/cobbled up. Doors operated quietly, still, lubricated the checks when the door panels were off for paint correction and door handle gasket replacement.
Of course, less than a thousand miles in I open the drivers door and hear click clack! Noooooooooo! Don't do me like that!
So, I take a look and the lower weld is cracked (can barely see it but certainly cracked). Remove clip, drive out pin and the mount is still solid so seems like it really just failed at the weld at the jamb. Inside of the body feels solid. (and can hardly get any movement out of lower weld but it's clearly cracked)
I took a very small carbide burr and ground back the original weld. Cleaned with lacquer thinner and rolled the tig welder over.
Rather awkward position to hold the torch upside down in my right hand (I'm a lefty) and bend up a piece of filler rod for my left hand all while squatting nearly to the ground with my left foot on the pedal. Certainly not as beautiful as I could accomplish on a bench but still, seems like a solid result. I was able to manipulate the torch to direct most of the heat towards the mount and pull the filler rod down towards the thinner sheetmetal. Not sure how you could get any good/directed penetration doing this with a mig welder. Not to mention the weld spatter (of which there is none with tig).
Touched up paint, lubed everything again and all is working nicely with no noises.
I’m back from a 4700km / 3000 mile road trip from Sydney down to Melbourne and across Bass Strait to join the Porsche Targa Tasmania tour. Awesome fun, very quick and challenging. Car has full all over film cover plus second layer in exposed to front areas.
Heading over the NSW snowy ranges That’s ice Ready for the next stage. Getting down and dirty Dirtier Finished. Porsche does it so well. Ship home The return to concourse Use it or loose it It comes off
I’ve been chasing a weird stalling issue for the patient few weeks and I think I finally found the culprit. It all started with a misfire code and weird stumble that developed in hard acceleration after a long weekend of maintenance including a new fan and fan hub, belts, plugs, caps, rotors, air/fuel filter, PS and trans fluid flushes. I thought the misfire was maybe related to using the Continental belts vs OEM so I swapped those, cleaned the ISV, cleaned the MAF, and replaced a torn upper air duct but the problem persisted and on top of that, developed an intermittent stalling issue with the clutch pedal pressed when the car would get up to temp and throwing a p0103 MAF code.
Fast forward to yesterday and I decided to go through again, make sure all my plugs were tapped, boot connections were secure, vacuum lines connected, etc… and found that part of the little electronics board that hangs down in the MAF was broken. I’m hoping that this has been what my issue is, as the car wouldn’t be able to adjust fuel ratios as the car and air temps warmed up.
New MAF is ordered but will be a few days until I get it and can get it installed.
Had a suspension refresh with Koni Sport and Eibach springs, brake rotors, pads, sensors, hoses and flush, clear turn signals, and new headlight lenses. And a new plate.
Next up new Lloyds mats, and elastics for the top.
I took on the task of cleaning the engine bay and installing new clubsport motormounts today. Cleaning is really satisfying as the old grime and dirt just washes off with some light scrub and chemicals.
Now the enginebay is ready to mate with its new engine.
Finally managed to replace the noisy bearing in the rear spoiler transmission as well as horn rubber bushings. Bearing was from Tore's collection of useful bits whilst the horn rubbers from FVD
I took on the task of cleaning the engine bay and installing new clubsport motormounts today. Cleaning is really satisfying as the old grime and dirt just washes off with some light scrub and chemicals.
Now the enginebay is ready to mate with its new engine.
Have you used the FVD mounts before? I’ve been eyeing them up for mine but reviews hard to come by.
05-01-2021, 09:08 PM
. Dropped the car off on Monday, picked it up today.
