Choice of engine oil
12-15-2011, 11:33 PM
#46
Rennlist Member
12-15-2011, 11:40 PM
#47
Drifting
Was it over tightened or did you not get a good grip on it using a filter socket?
12-17-2011, 07:02 PM
#52
12-17-2011, 09:22 PM
#53
Rennlist Member
BP is not a synthetic oil, but rather has a (very) small % synthetic component. It is not designed for an extended change interval, but rather should be changed within a range similar to that of a conventional dino oil. 8,000 miles is probably at least twice as far as you'd want to run it (although oil analysis is the only definitive arbiter). Sounds like your oil analysis supports this.
BTW - I recently switched to BP myself. Rationale was that at $6 a quart for a top quality, high ZDDP mostly-dino oil, I can afforrd to flush it at or before 3K miles with the 12-18 track hours I have mixed in on my dual-use car each season.
As always, intended usage is very relevant in making these decisions. If I was racing or on track exclusively, 300V would be a better choice, if expensive. I have run it before, but I does not hold up to the miles you may put on a street car.
Best,
Matt
12-18-2011, 12:53 PM
#55
Race Director
12-18-2011, 09:36 PM
#59
Not sure this is helpful, just a thought to consider:
BP is not a synthetic oil, but rather has a (very) small % synthetic component. It is not designed for an extended change interval, but rather should be changed within a range similar to that of a conventional dino oil. 8,000 miles is probably at least twice as far as you'd want to run it (although oil analysis is the only definitive arbiter). Sounds like your oil analysis supports this.
BTW - I recently switched to BP myself. Rationale was that at $6 a quart for a top quality, high ZDDP mostly-dino oil, I can afforrd to flush it at or before 3K miles with the 12-18 track hours I have mixed in on my dual-use car each season.
As always, intended usage is very relevant in making these decisions. If I was racing or on track exclusively, 300V would be a better choice, if expensive. I have run it before, but I does not hold up to the miles you may put on a street car.
Best,
Matt
BP is not a synthetic oil, but rather has a (very) small % synthetic component. It is not designed for an extended change interval, but rather should be changed within a range similar to that of a conventional dino oil. 8,000 miles is probably at least twice as far as you'd want to run it (although oil analysis is the only definitive arbiter). Sounds like your oil analysis supports this.
BTW - I recently switched to BP myself. Rationale was that at $6 a quart for a top quality, high ZDDP mostly-dino oil, I can afforrd to flush it at or before 3K miles with the 12-18 track hours I have mixed in on my dual-use car each season.
As always, intended usage is very relevant in making these decisions. If I was racing or on track exclusively, 300V would be a better choice, if expensive. I have run it before, but I does not hold up to the miles you may put on a street car.
Best,
Matt
Excellent point on the change interval Matt--That is the main reason I am not using the Motul 300v. I usually run 6k miles between oil changes. Perhaps I should look back to Motul 8100 or Mobil SuperSyn?
12-18-2011, 10:08 PM
#60
Rennlist Member
I hear ya. My old mechanic used 300V on a few oil changes. It was only upon doing some research that I learned that while it is one of the top oils available, it has a shorter change interval than I need.
I don't have any input on the alternatives you posted, but if I wasn't doing track events, I too would be looking for a good synthetic that would go 6K miles or once a year, whichever came first.
Good luck!
Matt
I don't have any input on the alternatives you posted, but if I wasn't doing track events, I too would be looking for a good synthetic that would go 6K miles or once a year, whichever came first.
Good luck!
Matt