jdrake

I have a trickle charger for my 992.1 but have been told it is not adequate to maintain proper battery charge for coding. I have tried to find recommendations through search but come up empty. What battery charger should I purchase for my Lithium battery on my 992.1?

siberian

Trickle chargers are NOT to be used as power supplement when coding. Please use SEARCH tool as to what options you have as this has been covered umpteen times. TY

siberian

jdrake

I know trickle chargers are not acceptable. I also stated I have tried to search but have not gotten the results you have said have been covered umpteem times. Jeez.

siberian

Sorry but so many of us have spent countless hours researching and posting tips etc. yet folks are just not interested in spending a couple of minutes to search what's already been posted. We then end up with oodles of the same questions being asked.

But here you go: PowerMax 75 or 100A

siberian

jdrake

Thank you! I am first to admit my search skills are not the best, especially through the Rennlist searches. Prior to this email, I tried Google instead and got better results but not exactly what I was looking for.

I assume the PowerMax 75A works on lithium/ion batteries ...

siberian

Yes

siberian

TheOtherDave

You don't want a "charger" as much as a "supply".

I use a 100A 12V (nominal) bench power supply. I set it to 13.8 to match what the output of the alternator would be with the engine running
and charging the battery. Note I have an Lead Acid AGM and NOT a Lithium. Lithium probably needs to be set differently.

What you need to remember is that during coding the whole car is powered up (ignition in on position)....so headlights, steering motors, actuators and all the computers.
The draw can be quite high. In my testing I have seen 40+ amps and very few "chargers" can do that level of current.

40 amps wouldn't be a problem for the battery if coding sessions didn't last so long. My last one trying to code the temp display to display actual water temp rather
than the limited 194deg F value took over 2 hours (The effort was a failure as well.....I should have spent the time cleaning up the garage).

If you are running on just the battery and it shuts off (goes below min voltage) while you are writing data to a particular computer module (LRU for my fellow military types)
it has a high possibility of bricking the unit because of corrupted data being in the firmware section of the box.

siberian

Agree, also note that the interface plays a crucial role.

The old VAS is extremely slow resulting in hit or miss, so to pull a VAL took over 30 minutes and several tries due to time-outs. I would look into the T6PTG3 and depending on your car year to get the most appropriate PIWIS version. Meaning if you don't have an EV you don't need the absolute latest PIWIS version.

Also as covered, turn off the lights, A/C and PCM display, run your emergency lights and fasten the seat belt (behind you) to avoid time outs (not so critical on the T6PT3G and beyond). VALs have been pulled in under 4 minutes.

75A should be fine but if extra cautious go for the 100A, use appropriate cables and install an inline volt meter to measure what's been drawn from the unit vs what's displayed on PIWIS and the vehicle.



GL

siberian

Earle

Here is the Porsche 992 power supply I built. I put it in a repurposed Pelican case.
The parts list include:

1. Pelican im2450 case
2. RecPro RV Converter | Multiple Capacities | RV Power Converter | RV Battery Charger | 120VAC to 12VDC | 13V to 16.5V Operating Range (100-Amp), Amazon: ~$164
3. bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt. Amazon ~$17
4. 300Pcs 12 10 8 6 4 2 1/0 2/0 Wire Ferrule Tinned Copper Crimp Connector Electrical Cable Pin Cord End Terminal 8 Sizes Assortment Kit. Amazon ~$15
5. TKDMR 10pcs 2/0 AWG-3/8" Wire Lugs Ring Terminal Connectors,Heavy Duty Battery Cable Lug Wire Electrical Eyelets with 10pcs 3:1 Dual Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink. Amazon ~$14
6. Linkstyle 2 PCS 1000A Pure Copper Battery Jumper Cable Clamp,Replacement Jumper Cables Boost Clamp,Car Battery Charger Clamps, Crocodile Alligator Clamps Suitable for Cars Auto Boat 12V 24V 36V Input. Amazon ~$15
7. Surplus 2/0 multi strand black and red copper cable. A good heavy duty set of jumper cables would work.
8. Two sheets of .092 aluminum for mounting the power supply and power meter. These were cut to fit the Pelican case
9. miscellaneous 3/8, 1/4-20, 8-32 and 6-24 hardware bits.
10. 3D Printed cover and case for Volt/Amp meter
11. 3D Printed cover and mount for Power shunt.

This was a fun little project. I think I am into this for ~$225. I know I saved a bunch on this project do the surplus wire and Pelican case I had on hand.

I did several versions of the 3D shunt mounting bracket and cover to get it just right. The whole kit fits nicely inside the Pelican case for transport. The power meter is clearly visible (it's backlit ) when I am connected to the car. My DC cables are long and have a neoprene cover so they don't scratch the paint.

The voltage and current meter may not be the most accurate (I have no expectations they are traceable to a NIST standard) but they are not that far off. I have used this setup multiple times and noticed the 992 has pulled over 50A in one instance.
If anyone is interested in the 3D models I use I will be happy to share.

I am just getting started with PIWIS, thanks @rnlst_log ! I am finding the learning curve a little steep. I have watched some YouTube videos, but found the usable content somewhat sparse. I did have some success last night in collecting data and seeing some module errors on my 1600 mile 992. My ultimate goal is to reprogram the headlights to their full functionality. I feel I am a ways off from this goal.

Shogunade

Awesome post. Thanks for the write-up. I'm also getting everything together with the same goals as you. Matrix unlock and spoiler lock. Study group? Haha

John Mclane

[quote=sitetech]John, please tell how to code it? Thank youI thought I left pictures of that one, early in the thread. No longer have the car,so I can't assist much now.

jlegelis

@John Mclane on my '21 I've been able to enable the display, but it never shows any data. Seems like something from the DME or other area of needs to be enable to 'transmit' the data to the Kombi. Any recollection?

John Mclane

Sorry, not really.maybe others were successful and chime in.

jlegelis

@sitetech using PIWIS, in Kombi, enable (I think):Werkseinstellung Menükonfiguration Performance
and
Weitere Kodierungen III Performance Monitor Einheit Leistung

It will then appear as menu option in PCM which you can enable to show on the right screen of the dashboard. Unfortunately no data is displayed, and I've not been able to find a DME (or other controller) setting that 'produces' the data. @John Mclane was successful on his '20, but I've never seen it done successfully enabled on other non-GT 992. Please share any discoveries you may unlock.

Zoomnbyu

https://www.thedrive.com/news/the-po...-safety-is-why

How to allow for the Eco Spoiler. Why? Because that's why.