991.2 Base/S/GTS Modification & Race Track Prep Thread
#601
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#602
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Base brake help please.
I'm starting to spend more time at a local track and it's time for new pads and rotors all around. Since they need replacing I'm thinking about upgrades. I'd prefer to spend my money on a brake upgrade vs. more HP.
This will always be primarily a street car that can be driven to the track. I will probably do 5-10 track days per year. I don't love loud squeaky metallic pads. I don't have an open checkbook or I would put PCCB's on.
What is better route?
1. stock calipers with Girodisc 350mm rotors - expensive but can run larger rotors with stock 4 piston calipers. These will slotted. Might cause issues with stock pads or if I run metallic pads could be squeaky for street use. Could do front and rear rotors with stock calipers.
2. upgrade to S 6 piston calipers in front. Will look for used S front calipers the will run stock 350mm rotors. Could also upgrade rotors to GT3 specs and do 380mm. Could keep rears the same or upgrade to Girodisk.
Will I get better stopping power from S upgrade vs. 350mm rotors with Base brakes? I assume so but will it be significant? Will there be any issues running slotted rotors on street?
It's always difficult to have a dual purpose vs dedicated track car.
Thanks in advance.
I'm starting to spend more time at a local track and it's time for new pads and rotors all around. Since they need replacing I'm thinking about upgrades. I'd prefer to spend my money on a brake upgrade vs. more HP.
This will always be primarily a street car that can be driven to the track. I will probably do 5-10 track days per year. I don't love loud squeaky metallic pads. I don't have an open checkbook or I would put PCCB's on.
What is better route?
1. stock calipers with Girodisc 350mm rotors - expensive but can run larger rotors with stock 4 piston calipers. These will slotted. Might cause issues with stock pads or if I run metallic pads could be squeaky for street use. Could do front and rear rotors with stock calipers.
2. upgrade to S 6 piston calipers in front. Will look for used S front calipers the will run stock 350mm rotors. Could also upgrade rotors to GT3 specs and do 380mm. Could keep rears the same or upgrade to Girodisk.
Will I get better stopping power from S upgrade vs. 350mm rotors with Base brakes? I assume so but will it be significant? Will there be any issues running slotted rotors on street?
It's always difficult to have a dual purpose vs dedicated track car.
Thanks in advance.
#603
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#604
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Base brake help please.
I'm starting to spend more time at a local track and it's time for new pads and rotors all around. Since they need replacing I'm thinking about upgrades. I'd prefer to spend my money on a brake upgrade vs. more HP.
This will always be primarily a street car that can be driven to the track. I will probably do 5-10 track days per year. I don't love loud squeaky metallic pads. I don't have an open checkbook or I would put PCCB's on.
What is better route?
1. stock calipers with Girodisc 350mm rotors - expensive but can run larger rotors with stock 4 piston calipers. These will slotted. Might cause issues with stock pads or if I run metallic pads could be squeaky for street use. Could do front and rear rotors with stock calipers.
2. upgrade to S 6 piston calipers in front. Will look for used S front calipers the will run stock 350mm rotors. Could also upgrade rotors to GT3 specs and do 380mm. Could keep rears the same or upgrade to Girodisk.
Will I get better stopping power from S upgrade vs. 350mm rotors with Base brakes? I assume so but will it be significant? Will there be any issues running slotted rotors on street?
It's always difficult to have a dual purpose vs dedicated track car.
Thanks in advance.
I'm starting to spend more time at a local track and it's time for new pads and rotors all around. Since they need replacing I'm thinking about upgrades. I'd prefer to spend my money on a brake upgrade vs. more HP.
This will always be primarily a street car that can be driven to the track. I will probably do 5-10 track days per year. I don't love loud squeaky metallic pads. I don't have an open checkbook or I would put PCCB's on.
What is better route?
1. stock calipers with Girodisc 350mm rotors - expensive but can run larger rotors with stock 4 piston calipers. These will slotted. Might cause issues with stock pads or if I run metallic pads could be squeaky for street use. Could do front and rear rotors with stock calipers.
2. upgrade to S 6 piston calipers in front. Will look for used S front calipers the will run stock 350mm rotors. Could also upgrade rotors to GT3 specs and do 380mm. Could keep rears the same or upgrade to Girodisk.
Will I get better stopping power from S upgrade vs. 350mm rotors with Base brakes? I assume so but will it be significant? Will there be any issues running slotted rotors on street?
It's always difficult to have a dual purpose vs dedicated track car.
Thanks in advance.
braking is alway a combination of pads, rotors and tires and technique.
therefore, you may not have a significant difference in brake performance on base caliper vs S.
#605
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![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Awesome, I will let you know if he responds.
That's the setup i ran all along and i find it perfect. I think that Mr. 4.0's tech possibly did not get the correct front drop links because he swears that the 991 GT3 front bar won't work but we have installed it 3 different times on customer cars. I like that setup and don't think it needs anything more.
I have the car pretty slammed because i like the look of it. You really need to set it level and then drive it and then make your ride height changes. Just as your gut is telling you, if it doesn't turn well enough, lower the front and raise the rear. Ultimately it's dictated by your suspension settings and your tire contact patch. If you have too much rear tire and not enough front, you definitely want some rake.
I have the car pretty slammed because i like the look of it. You really need to set it level and then drive it and then make your ride height changes. Just as your gut is telling you, if it doesn't turn well enough, lower the front and raise the rear. Ultimately it's dictated by your suspension settings and your tire contact patch. If you have too much rear tire and not enough front, you definitely want some rake.
After spending $8,000 AUD, you have an expectation that the parts you purchased, that are advertised to fit your car, will bolt straight on. Plug and Play. Let's be very clear, the rear GT3 bar is a completely different shape and does not fit. That was the main determining factor. I wanted front and rear sway bars that were matched to each other. The rear is completely wrong. Then, to add to that, I had stock suspension and height, so Elephant racing send end links to match a stock setup. So those end links were wrong for the GT3 sway bar. Some of the bars arrived with the wrong size ends on them. They were M12 when they should have been M14 and vice versa. So more delays getting that sorted. So I could have even more delay's upon delays to get the correct size end link, or I could just send them back. I was pissed so much never bolted straight on, and sent both bars back.
When you spend $8K on a few spherical bearings, you have an expectation that someone had tried them on your vehicle and approved they fit. The fact that so much had to be returned and the correct sizes sent back, caused weeks of delays. It might be ok in the states were labour is 0.02c per day, but here labour is $200 per millisecond. So you don't want your race mechanic, re-engineering $8K in parts that were supposed to bolt straight on.
So yes, I know the Front one will fit "IF" you get custom end links. But the rear does not. Then I ordered from TPC. I asked does there end links make noise. I offended the delicate little petal and he turned around my shipment. I really hope it burns someones *** every time I write that. Every time someone asks< I'm going to mention it, until I fit the GT2-RS carbon fibre front ones.
I am still learning. I enjoy changing things on one end and seeing how it effects the car. You may very well know what doing all the Aero on the front will do, But I want to experience it. Then stiffen the front bar, and see what that does, Then I can balance it up with the rear. I may build a race car next, cause the track bug has bit very hard. I could buy an old cup car and learn nothing, or I can keep playing.
As far as brakes go, I turned my stock 6 pot calipers brown. Brownbo's. I then destroyed and OEM set of pads in 3 x 20min sessions. So to all those that think the stock brake setup is enough for tracking.
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Even now I have the full Brembo GTS BBK 380 front and rear. I have Endless Me20 on front, which look like they may last about 6 track days. The rear is truely sorted, with MX72+. They have barely worn, and the discs look new. Whereas on the front the discs have heat surface cracks in them. I mentioned this to my mechanic, he just shakes his head and says, "What do you expect, you have a very fast car."
#606
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Base brake help please.
I'm starting to spend more time at a local track and it's time for new pads and rotors all around. Since they need replacing I'm thinking about upgrades. I'd prefer to spend my money on a brake upgrade vs. more HP.
This will always be primarily a street car that can be driven to the track. I will probably do 5-10 track days per year. I don't love loud squeaky metallic pads. I don't have an open checkbook or I would put PCCB's on.
What is better route?
1. stock calipers with Girodisc 350mm rotors - expensive but can run larger rotors with stock 4 piston calipers. These will slotted. Might cause issues with stock pads or if I run metallic pads could be squeaky for street use. Could do front and rear rotors with stock calipers.
2. upgrade to S 6 piston calipers in front. Will look for used S front calipers the will run stock 350mm rotors. Could also upgrade rotors to GT3 specs and do 380mm. Could keep rears the same or upgrade to Girodisk.
Will I get better stopping power from S upgrade vs. 350mm rotors with Base brakes? I assume so but will it be significant? Will there be any issues running slotted rotors on street?
It's always difficult to have a dual purpose vs dedicated track car.
Thanks in advance.
I'm starting to spend more time at a local track and it's time for new pads and rotors all around. Since they need replacing I'm thinking about upgrades. I'd prefer to spend my money on a brake upgrade vs. more HP.
This will always be primarily a street car that can be driven to the track. I will probably do 5-10 track days per year. I don't love loud squeaky metallic pads. I don't have an open checkbook or I would put PCCB's on.
What is better route?
1. stock calipers with Girodisc 350mm rotors - expensive but can run larger rotors with stock 4 piston calipers. These will slotted. Might cause issues with stock pads or if I run metallic pads could be squeaky for street use. Could do front and rear rotors with stock calipers.
2. upgrade to S 6 piston calipers in front. Will look for used S front calipers the will run stock 350mm rotors. Could also upgrade rotors to GT3 specs and do 380mm. Could keep rears the same or upgrade to Girodisk.
Will I get better stopping power from S upgrade vs. 350mm rotors with Base brakes? I assume so but will it be significant? Will there be any issues running slotted rotors on street?
It's always difficult to have a dual purpose vs dedicated track car.
Thanks in advance.
Also for pads the Ferodo DS2500 don't squeak on the street and are good on track, but they do wear out quickly.
#607
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GiroDisc is the only brand that have 350 mm rotors for base car. The sweep area is different so make sure you get the correct 350mm. With the GiroDisc upgrade, Spiegler brake lines and Forodo or Pagid pads, you have plenty stopping power. No need to buy S calipers.
braking is alway a combination of pads, rotors and tires and technique.
therefore, you may not have a significant difference in brake performance on base caliper vs S.
braking is alway a combination of pads, rotors and tires and technique.
therefore, you may not have a significant difference in brake performance on base caliper vs S.
Ferodo DS 2500 are very similar to FM1000 that came with my BBK. They are awesome on the street. They are silent. but they did not last on the track at all.
Here's the thing. If you track 5-10 times a year, it will get in your blood. After just 12 months you improve out of sight. Then none of that is any good. If you want to save money, get 380 mm up front. Run Endless MX72+ which are silent on the street. The rear they last if you turn track off or at least half off. Then when you are faster, swap the fronts to ME 20's. They barely have the softest squeal after a few weeks of driving on street when transfer is cleaned off. But the rear MX72+ are silent. its an great all round setup.
It's not that anyone setup pulls you up faster,(except for ME20 they will put you through the windshield lol) its heat. heat is your enemy. 380 will cool better.
#608
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#609
#610
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GiroDisc is the only brand that have 350 mm rotors for base car. The sweep area is different so make sure you get the correct 350mm. With the GiroDisc upgrade, Spiegler brake lines and Forodo or Pagid pads, you have plenty stopping power. No need to buy S calipers.
braking is alway a combination of pads, rotors and tires and technique.
therefore, you may not have a significant difference in brake performance on base caliper vs S.
braking is alway a combination of pads, rotors and tires and technique.
therefore, you may not have a significant difference in brake performance on base caliper vs S.
#612
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Short answer, because I am a stubborn SOB.
(I'm sure that will be fine.)
Awesome, I will let you know if he responds.
Let's take this from the top. I like complete systems. Components that are meant to work together. I looked at what Elephant Racing had, and they had a massive amount of parts that should have worked together.
After spending $8,000 AUD, you have an expectation that the parts you purchased, that are advertised to fit your car, will bolt straight on. Plug and Play. Let's be very clear, the rear GT3 bar is a completely different shape and does not fit. That was the main determining factor. I wanted front and rear sway bars that were matched to each other. The rear is completely wrong. Then, to add to that, I had stock suspension and height, so Elephant racing send end links to match a stock setup. So those end links were wrong for the GT3 sway bar. Some of the bars arrived with the wrong size ends on them. They were M12 when they should have been M14 and vice versa. So more delays getting that sorted. So I could have even more delay's upon delays to get the correct size end link, or I could just send them back. I was pissed so much never bolted straight on, and sent both bars back.
When you spend $8K on a few spherical bearings, you have an expectation that someone had tried them on your vehicle and approved they fit. The fact that so much had to be returned and the correct sizes sent back, caused weeks of delays. It might be ok in the states were labour is 0.02c per day, but here labour is $200 per millisecond. So you don't want your race mechanic, re-engineering $8K in parts that were supposed to bolt straight on.
So yes, I know the Front one will fit "IF" you get custom end links. But the rear does not. Then I ordered from TPC. I asked does there end links make noise. I offended the delicate little petal and he turned around my shipment. I really hope it burns someones *** every time I write that. Every time someone asks< I'm going to mention it, until I fit the GT2-RS carbon fibre front ones.
I am still learning. I enjoy changing things on one end and seeing how it effects the car. You may very well know what doing all the Aero on the front will do, But I want to experience it. Then stiffen the front bar, and see what that does, Then I can balance it up with the rear. I may build a race car next, cause the track bug has bit very hard. I could buy an old cup car and learn nothing, or I can keep playing.
As far as brakes go, I turned my stock 6 pot calipers brown. Brownbo's. I then destroyed and OEM set of pads in 3 x 20min sessions. So to all those that think the stock brake setup is enough for tracking.
Not even close.
Even now I have the full Brembo GTS BBK 380 front and rear. I have Endless Me20 on front, which look like they may last about 6 track days. The rear is truely sorted, with MX72+. They have barely worn, and the discs look new. Whereas on the front the discs have heat surface cracks in them. I mentioned this to my mechanic, he just shakes his head and says, "What do you expect, you have a very fast car."
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Awesome, I will let you know if he responds.
Let's take this from the top. I like complete systems. Components that are meant to work together. I looked at what Elephant Racing had, and they had a massive amount of parts that should have worked together.
After spending $8,000 AUD, you have an expectation that the parts you purchased, that are advertised to fit your car, will bolt straight on. Plug and Play. Let's be very clear, the rear GT3 bar is a completely different shape and does not fit. That was the main determining factor. I wanted front and rear sway bars that were matched to each other. The rear is completely wrong. Then, to add to that, I had stock suspension and height, so Elephant racing send end links to match a stock setup. So those end links were wrong for the GT3 sway bar. Some of the bars arrived with the wrong size ends on them. They were M12 when they should have been M14 and vice versa. So more delays getting that sorted. So I could have even more delay's upon delays to get the correct size end link, or I could just send them back. I was pissed so much never bolted straight on, and sent both bars back.
When you spend $8K on a few spherical bearings, you have an expectation that someone had tried them on your vehicle and approved they fit. The fact that so much had to be returned and the correct sizes sent back, caused weeks of delays. It might be ok in the states were labour is 0.02c per day, but here labour is $200 per millisecond. So you don't want your race mechanic, re-engineering $8K in parts that were supposed to bolt straight on.
So yes, I know the Front one will fit "IF" you get custom end links. But the rear does not. Then I ordered from TPC. I asked does there end links make noise. I offended the delicate little petal and he turned around my shipment. I really hope it burns someones *** every time I write that. Every time someone asks< I'm going to mention it, until I fit the GT2-RS carbon fibre front ones.
I am still learning. I enjoy changing things on one end and seeing how it effects the car. You may very well know what doing all the Aero on the front will do, But I want to experience it. Then stiffen the front bar, and see what that does, Then I can balance it up with the rear. I may build a race car next, cause the track bug has bit very hard. I could buy an old cup car and learn nothing, or I can keep playing.
As far as brakes go, I turned my stock 6 pot calipers brown. Brownbo's. I then destroyed and OEM set of pads in 3 x 20min sessions. So to all those that think the stock brake setup is enough for tracking.
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Even now I have the full Brembo GTS BBK 380 front and rear. I have Endless Me20 on front, which look like they may last about 6 track days. The rear is truely sorted, with MX72+. They have barely worn, and the discs look new. Whereas on the front the discs have heat surface cracks in them. I mentioned this to my mechanic, he just shakes his head and says, "What do you expect, you have a very fast car."
#613
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Having done this for decades that's pretty much what you sign up for when being a pioneer on a platform that no one has developed for track work. GT3s are the aftermarket darlings for aftermarket track parts due to margins that can be made from that crowd.. Ive done similar pioneering work on 986, 987 , Nissan 370Z back in 2010, and now 991.2. The amount of custom fabbing I did on those past platforms goes into tens of thousands of dollars. You may have totally unrealistic expectations of the hodgepodge of aftermarket companies who really don't do much in way of R&D on platforms that aren't popular on track. Its really up to you to figure it out the "system" Doubtful anyone anytime soon is going to spend R&D money on a market that may or may not emerge with 991.2 Carrera owners. Most of 991.2 Carrera owners keep their cars pretty street focused. One thing that does amaze me is that often I know more about these neglected platforms than so called experts. I start talking to guys at some of companies you have mentioned and they are clueless as they really haven't touched a 991.2 . Funny story when I got the 991.2 started asking about front adjustable lower control arms and some very well known aftermarket vendors said no arms out yet. only took me crawling under car to realize it wasn't anything special and shared same design as 991 and 981. LOL!
#614
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There is a huge air box on the GT3 that vents air to the top instead of the bottom with GTS. The box slides over a heap of locating pins on the chassis. Guess what. All of those locating pins are on the car waiting to have that GT3 box slid on. They are all 911's at heart. Just with different bits bolted onto them. They are interchangeable. It's just some parts require extra parts to make it all work. Like GT3 A/C hard lines that are re-routed so that box can sit flush against the body.