Truble10

I'm not usually a fan of yellow but that looks bad to the bone! What suspension are you running the stance looks great?

BGB Motorsports

The car really pops when it's clean OR dirty. I decided to go with the H&R kit that turns the PASM shocks into coilovers so i could re-map the PASM via the DSC control unit. The car is headed north. Long live Big Bird!

4 Point 0

Long live Bigbird

Do you know of any up graded spark plugs we could run that are one step colder? For higher boost applications? If I can't get colder ones, I'll just gap down a fresh set.

Ecosse911

FYI it looks like the shipping brace on the inter cooler scoops was not removed. I guess it doesn’t need to be removed but you will be losing out on some air flow to the inter coolers. Here is a pic of mine with the shipping brace removed.

BGB Motorsports

We went back and forth about it. Aesthetically it appealed to my OCD and the body shop made it look seamless so we left it. I figured with the larger AMS intercoolers we had the breathing room to do it.

Danny Olmstead

This thread is totally helpful, and recognize the blue GTS from Laguna...

I'm going to Laguna next month and am aligning my car after installing Tarett GT3 lower control arms. Can you guys recommend a caster and front and rear toe setting? I plan to run -2.5 and -2 camber front/rear. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Danny

4 Point 0

I’ve been running -3.2 front and -2.8 rear. Now that I am getting a lot more serious on the track, i may go to -4.0 front and -3.8 rear maybe.

I put 265/35/20 on the stock 9 inch GTS wheel. And it rubbed on the inner guard on lock. So we dialled in an extra 3 degrees of castor to push the wheel forward so it no longer fouls.

So pretty much Used the extra caster To centre the wheel.

I have now upgraded front springs to 100nm and rear are 150n/m. So pretty much 3RS spec but with Tractive dampeners.

Looking forward to Tom’s from TPC track amp for that spring rate.

The extra front spring rate restored loat drive out of the corners. I was lifting thr rear inside wheel and lighting it up constantly. Its much nicer now lifting a front inside wheel and driving hard out of the corner with grip.

BGB Motorsports

And John has been double checking my suspension upgrades and every time I do something like get the front bar actually mounted correctly or add spring rate John tells me how the car is gonna improve and just how he says, it does (to be typed or written with an Aussie accent.)

dsddcd

The spring rates may be good for the car but in my experience you will certainly have a few other things to contend with. Have you changed any of the rear bushings?

My car was picking up the front inside wheel on many corners which is not ideal. We were able to determine that the car was jacking on the outside wheel caused by coil bind with 6" front springs that I had selected. The front needs at minimum a 7" spring from most manufactures to avoid bind.

As for the calibration if you start with the standard map you will likely need to reduce the dampening everywhere. I had to remove a considerable amount of what DSC calls "High Speed" compression and rebound, OEM's would consider that mid to low speed. The offset hats on the tractive cause the wheel to be off center without using an adjustable camber arm.

As for camber my testing has found with the heavier springs we were able to run a more reasonable amount of camber front and rear, around 3° front and 2.5° rear.

tgavem

What car do you have?
I have a Carrera T w GT3 lower control arm and run 2.4 front and 1.9 rear camber. A nice compromise between street and track as I am not hard core track user, just a handful of times per year. My car is not lowered but it came with SPASM from factory. I run 265/35-19 front on 9”x19 ET40. No rubbing and I did not adjust caster and it is at 8.9 vs recommended 7.7-8.8.
zero toe front and 0.15 toe rear.

4 Point 0

🤣🤣🤣 Bloody Oath mate. I was like, why didn’t you tell me this sooner. 🤣

and John be like

Translation : Thank you John. 🤣



I have pretty much every Elephant Racing adjustable spherical bearing bar on the car.

Including solid bushings for the tractive amd rear adjustable LCA. The only ones I haven’t done yet are the three non adjustable ones from BBI. They replace the fixed bars, rather than Elephant just replacing the bushings on the stock bars.

i have 7 inch springs front and rear and tender springs.

I had a full custom map built whilst i was driving the car. But that was when it was 75/150 built for street Targa and Street comfort. It was a little loose on the track. And I did loose drive out of the corners. I would constantly light up the rear inside tyre. So much that I got a warning on the dash that said, Front Diff Failure. Which wasn’t too concerning, as my car is RWD and doesn’t have a front diff. 🤣

I would say diff oil over heated. I am looking for a mechanical diff for next season.

4 Point 0

4.0


My Caster is about 11 as i went 265/35/20 and they rubbed on inner guard linning at rear on lock. So adding the extra 3 of caster moved the wheel forward so it cleared.

SDCLTD

LOL! I always tell my wife to drive very slowly in the Garage ......................In fact, don't even think about it! I'll put your car into the garage, and don't ever drive my Porsche.

Shanh81

I love the techart look and considering adding to my GTS. Did you only do the rear or add the front kit as well?

Norge911

Great work by many here. Thanks BGB