Has anyone done a CarPlay retrofit / Headunit replacement for 991.1
07-18-2024, 07:29 PM
#3406
I have heard from other people in the past that have had wireless CP / AA issues. I think it has to do with the area you are in. Something is interfering with the signal from the phone to the HU. It is not specific to these HUs, it happens to factory units also in those areas. Salt Lake City area has been known to have those issues also.
07-18-2024, 07:33 PM
#3407
Hello gang,
Today I took the Boxster out for the first time in about a month (sad, but true). In doing so, my Erisin head unit refused to find my cell phone. The Bluetooth connected and I can make calls, but the AA won't connect. Any thoughts?
I seem to recall that when I did the install, the initial startup required me to use a wired connection, but I thought that was only initially. For grins, I connected both of the USB wires that I have sitting in my glove box to the phone but that did nothing. I can't recall if there's another wire somewhere that I can use for this.
But what's the deal? Why would it forget my phone? Out of sight, out of mind? LOL. This car is going to my vacation home, so this could be a recurring issue for me.
Help...
EDIT: I forgot that I connected the OEM USB so I just needed to connect the phone to the OEM USB in the glove box and the phone instantly connected. I powered down the car and back up without being plugged in and it connected wirelessly as usual.
Today I took the Boxster out for the first time in about a month (sad, but true). In doing so, my Erisin head unit refused to find my cell phone. The Bluetooth connected and I can make calls, but the AA won't connect. Any thoughts?
I seem to recall that when I did the install, the initial startup required me to use a wired connection, but I thought that was only initially. For grins, I connected both of the USB wires that I have sitting in my glove box to the phone but that did nothing. I can't recall if there's another wire somewhere that I can use for this.
But what's the deal? Why would it forget my phone? Out of sight, out of mind? LOL. This car is going to my vacation home, so this could be a recurring issue for me.
Help...
EDIT: I forgot that I connected the OEM USB so I just needed to connect the phone to the OEM USB in the glove box and the phone instantly connected. I powered down the car and back up without being plugged in and it connected wirelessly as usual.
Oddly enough, I had the same issue yesterday. Always connected wirelessly first time every time (after initial setup using factory USB). Yesterday I had to do exactly what you did - connect with a cable to OEM USB first and since it has connected wirelessly every time. I suspect an upgrade to some app or other on my phone as the culprit. I do updates in the background so I am never sure what gets updated - in this case Android Auto itself may have been updated and needed a 'restart', or maybe a system app or something. Anyway, it was an easy fix and I have had no issues since.
07-18-2024, 07:41 PM
#3408
I actually would say the opposite - if you're running CarPlay or Android Auto, your phone is doing the vast majority of the work, not the head unit. In this scenario, the head unit basically becomes a remote display that supplies GPS data to the phone. The updates on the head unit side for CarPlay/Android Auto are the handful of updates for the Carlink/Z-Link apps, which are mostly just bug fixes. If you're using native Android apps, the additional CPU power and RAM/storage capacity become more important.
07-18-2024, 07:43 PM
#3409
I actually would say the opposite - if you're running CarPlay or Android Auto, your phone is doing the vast majority of the work, not the head unit. In this scenario, the head unit basically becomes a remote display that supplies GPS data to the phone. The updates on the head unit side for CarPlay/Android Auto are the handful of updates for the Carlink/Z-Link apps, which are mostly just bug fixes. If you're using native Android apps, the additional CPU power and RAM/storage capacity become more important.
Ah - ISWYM now. I said " Also, as CP and AA get updated over time, they invariably seem to need more and more RAM, so you are future-proofing your unit by getting a higher spec.". I meant to say that as apps get updated over time, as the rest of the post, I hope, makes clear. You're totally right that someone only using AA or CP has most of the heavy lifting done by the attached phone.
But I still recommend getting 8GB and at least 128GB of storage because this allows for full use of the unit later if, as my wife did, someone later decides they prefer the 'native' experience to the AA or CP experience. And TBH the extra cost for the higher spec isn't all that much more money. Personally, I have switched back and forth several times between using the HU in 'native' mode and using it with AA. Both methods have their upsides and downsides, but in the end I opted for the simplicity and reliability of using Android Auto. My wife is the opposite though
What I especially liked about native mode is that you get the full versions of the apps like Waze etc, not the somewhat cut-down versions for CP/AA and I could also use YouTube, Netflix etc while sitting in the car waiting for someone (which isn't all that unusual for me, with daughters, wife etc). But I also like the screen layout of AA/CP and the way the apps are optimised for driving. It's horses for course I guess. But I am glad I specced the higher end units - if I hadn't my wife's change of mind about AA could have caused a problem.
Last edited by ZedZed; 07-18-2024 at 07:55 PM.
07-18-2024, 08:08 PM
#3410
Rennlist Member
As ever, I would always suggest a better, higher quality cable as the first step in troubleshooting this issue. @RwdConnor It's easy and cheap and often solves numerous issues.
Sorry if that was all over the place.
07-18-2024, 08:21 PM
#3411
I have an OEM apple cable. Also, since my unit is different than everyone else, have "CarBitLink" as my "wired" application. However its not activated.. Tried troubleshooting with CHSTEK and they said, nah, use Z Link... Which is wireless only. So while my unit is capable for Wired carplay, i dont have an app that works. Tried using the CarLink app from within the google drive, but it doesnt work in terms of mixing software with hardware on my unit. Seems like my unit only uses "CARBITLINK" to connect to a phone.
Sorry if that was all over the place.
Sorry if that was all over the place.
07-18-2024, 08:31 PM
#3412
😂 Good to hear. My replacement unit finally got to me, but I think I have lost interest to install this now after aonth just waiting for it
07-18-2024, 09:59 PM
#3413
Rennlist Member
All understood. I'd still try a different cable though, just so I could say I'd tried it really. Over time, cables can physically deteriorate due to endless bending, rough handling, etc and this may affect something. In this case, it seems from other posts that the problem lies elsewhere (and may be a local thing which you can't do anything about) but I'd want to eliminate cable issues just for peace of mind. A buddy of mine who runs his own IT company says that on service calls to fix issues, swapping out cables has a high success rate. For me, it's just a part of my routine troubleshooting procedure when things aren't working. My No 1 rule is "look where you last worked", but swapping cables and uninstalling and reinstalling apps comes a high joint second.
The following users liked this post:
ZedZed (Yesterday)
07-18-2024, 10:50 PM
#3414
07-18-2024, 11:33 PM
#3415
I'm willing to give it a go, as I really don't want to pull the factory backup camera and put an aftermarket one in to get it to work. I've been without the backup camera for a week, and I miss it. I'll be honest, if I do not have the start-to-finish instructions for how to do it, I will probably flounder, as I'm super colorblind!
Yesterday, 10:19 AM
#3416
Rennlist Member
I thought all the RCAs in the Chstek supplied loom were female? I can't face removing the unit again to check!!
It would be awesome if there was such a simple fix..
It would be awesome if there was such a simple fix..
Yesterday, 10:38 AM
#3417
It has this male RCA wire connected to the quadlock CVBS pins.it is labelled CAM-VIN, maybe it means camera vehicle-in, no documentation
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1045...l#post19534228
Last edited by bmxtreme; Yesterday at 10:39 AM.
Yesterday, 10:52 AM
#3418
Rennlist Member
I just checked in the box my Chstek came in - I have the male RCA cable in the pic you referenced. It came with the "free" camera that I don't need as I already have an aftrmarket one fitted
It is a single male/male RCA with a red power lead exposed at both ends for the camera. It doesn't connect to the quadlock - I can't figure out where you're seeing a male RCA conected to the quadlock?
It is a single male/male RCA with a red power lead exposed at both ends for the camera. It doesn't connect to the quadlock - I can't figure out where you're seeing a male RCA conected to the quadlock?
Yesterday, 01:19 PM
#3419
I just checked in the box my Chstek came in - I have the male RCA cable in the pic you referenced. It came with the "free" camera that I don't need as I already have an aftrmarket one fitted
It is a single male/male RCA with a red power lead exposed at both ends for the camera. It doesn't connect to the quadlock - I can't figure out where you're seeing a male RCA conected to the quadlock?
It is a single male/male RCA with a red power lead exposed at both ends for the camera. It doesn't connect to the quadlock - I can't figure out where you're seeing a male RCA conected to the quadlock?
The yellow/black wires in this pic is from that CAM-VIN cable
Last edited by bmxtreme; Yesterday at 01:23 PM.
Today, 10:38 AM
#3420
Video RCA cables are just positive and negative wires inside the wiring sheath.
I would wire tap the CVBS + and CVBS - on using the pinout on this thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1379...ra-wiring.html
Then buy bare ended RCA like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-18AWG..._source=1&th=1
Use these super secure non destructive wire taps
https://www.amazon.com/Posi-Tap-Mini...zcF9hdGY&psc=1
then plug that RCA into the RCA output of the backup camera input of the CHSTEK unit
This will now feed the ACTUAL Video output from the OEM camera to the CHSTEK unit
and if it doesn't work NOTHING destructive is done and you are out less than $20
I would wire tap the CVBS + and CVBS - on using the pinout on this thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1379...ra-wiring.html
Then buy bare ended RCA like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-18AWG..._source=1&th=1
Use these super secure non destructive wire taps
https://www.amazon.com/Posi-Tap-Mini...zcF9hdGY&psc=1
then plug that RCA into the RCA output of the backup camera input of the CHSTEK unit
This will now feed the ACTUAL Video output from the OEM camera to the CHSTEK unit
and if it doesn't work NOTHING destructive is done and you are out less than $20
i’m sure that chstek is pretty frustrated with me after I have canceled an eBay order, placed a aliexpress order, canceled wrong AliExpress order, and now finally have arrived at the correct unit!
