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I was wondering on how to do that - pull the negative lead for a few minutes?
Any OBD2 code reader should be able to pull and reset the code... One with Porsche-specific functionality will likely give you something more meaningful on the code description than something like "PXXXX". But even with a generic code, you can likely google it...
Personally, I think something like a Foxwell NT530 Porsche Reader is kind of must-have for anyone who is more hands-on than driving it to the dealer, handing them the keys, and saying 'fix it"....
Most of you saw it on my page but I just swapped whees sets for our upcoming Tail of the Dragon area trip on Sat-Sun. Need to wear out these 2018 PS4S's on the original wheels.
I appreciate everyone's opinion over on my thread about which you like!!
Any OBD2 code reader should be able to pull and reset the code... One with Porsche-specific functionality will likely give you something more meaningful on the code description than something like "PXXXX". But even with a generic code, you can likely google it...
Personally, I think something like a Foxwell NT530 Porsche Reader is kind of must-have for anyone who is more hands-on than driving it to the dealer, handing them the keys, and saying 'fix it"....
It was an exciting weekend with the Turbo... I got it back from @SamboTT@ByDesign on Thursday night after making the jump from stage 3 to his XR kit. More to come on that with a more formal thread breaking down the details, but initial impressions are WOW as you can imagine. Still working with Sam (who has been incredible to deal with on every level) on gathering data to make some tweaks, but my schedule has been the limiting factor here.
I did get some time to mount the new wheels and tires then made it out to Cars and Coffee on Saturday for an hour or so.
Awesome, Ryan, and congrats. Can’t wait to see it and get a ride
FISH!!! A pleasure bud! can't wait for your full review
Will do - funny how this happens the day after the factory warranty runs out...
Originally Posted by pfbz
Any OBD2 code reader should be able to pull and reset the code... One with Porsche-specific functionality will likely give you something more meaningful on the code description than something like "PXXXX". But even with a generic code, you can likely google it...
Personally, I think something like a Foxwell NT530 Porsche Reader is kind of must-have for anyone who is more hands-on than driving it to the dealer, handing them the keys, and saying 'fix it"....
Do you recommend that one over the ICarsoft that you told me about a while back..?? I never bought one yet... I need to buy one soon also....
I have both the Foxwell and ICarsoft. I bought the latter after the former couldn't correctly reset my maintenance intervals. IME, the Carsoft did the reset much better, and is all-around an easier to understand and navigate user interface.
I have both the Foxwell and ICarsoft. I bought the latter after the former couldn't correctly reset my maintenance intervals. IME, the Carsoft did the reset much better, and is all-around an easier to understand and navigate user interface.
Perfect!
Remind me which unit (model? )you have / one for our cars?? 991.2TTS?
Do you recommend that one over the ICarsoft that you told me about a while back..?? I never bought one yet... I need to buy one soon also....
I have a Foxwell NT530, iCarsoft POR 2.0, Durametric enthusiast, and even a PIWIS 2 clone.
The Durametric and PIWIS both require a windoze computer and that makes them a PITA.
PIWIS even more so, as it runs on an emulated ancient XT OS and is very particular about the order the cables are connected, the date of the computer, etc. The 'clone' cable likes to disconnect intermittently. Honestly I only fire it up if I have no other choice!
The Durametric doesn't properly reset my 991 service interval, which is one of the key things people would use these for...
The Foxwell and iCarsoft are similar, both stand-alone and *much* easier to use than the other two,, especially trying to use it inside the car. The iCarsoft has a somewhat better user interface, but I've foudn that the Foxwell has a bit more functionality.
Overall, I'd rank them:
Power/Functionality:
PIWIS
Foxwell
iCarsoft
Durametric, as it fails on resetting service interval.
Ease Of Use:
iCarsoft
Foxwell (close second)
Durametric (distant third because of windows)
PIWIS
My Go-to's:
Foxwell. For reading/resetting codes, monitoring for misfires, resetting ABS/service-intervals, clutch re-learn on PDK, etc.
PIWIS, when I'm trying to do something beyond the Foxwells capabilities or program some parameter, often unsuccessfully...
The Durametric pretty much never gets used, and I only use the iCarsoft if I can't remember where i left the Foxwell!
The Foxwell is also pretty easy to update (though again, requires a windows computer).
I have both the Foxwell and ICarsoft. I bought the latter after the former couldn't correctly reset my maintenance intervals. IME, the Carsoft did the reset much better, and is all-around an easier to understand and navigate user interface.
Brian does have a 991.2, where I have a 991.1, but my experience was a bit opposite on which one did a better job. I had updated mine with latest software before trying... In fact I just reset the service interval with the Foxwell a few days ago.
I do agree the menu structure and user interface is a bit easier on the iCarsoft, but it's not like the Foxwell is difficult.
I like that I can even log on to their website (foxwelltech.us) and see exactly what versions I previously updated to... Kind of an unprecedented level of support for a budget product Chinese tech company.
Actually one of the things I *dislike* about iCarsoft... Several different products with nearly identical names but slightly different functionality? I guess Foxwell has the same damn issue, though not *quite* as bad.
eg: iCarsoft POR-II vs iCarsoft POR 2.0.
I have to re-check every damn time which one I have, but yes, the V2.0 (the one you linked to) appears to be the right one.
Technically, it was figured out 100 years ago: You put a hole in the crank case and vent blow-by to atmosphere. But, that 'solution' was looked upon poorly once folks started worrying about pollution. Now, the breather system must re-burn crank case gases.
And thus we get to ...
Originally Posted by pfbz
There are different Porsche Motorsports versions of air-oil separators that evidently are much more effective particularly when driven hard. Perhaps too much of a hassle to get agency approvals, or too much additional cost to throw on every car, so we get the compromised versions.
... motorsports. I do not know if "Motorsports" cars are required to have TUV/EPA/CARB-compliant crank case breather systems. I imagine that they don't and whatever Motorsports parts are used on the race cars might only comply to the extent that it is useful in racing.
However, if you, or anyone else, knows. I'm all ears.
Originally Posted by pfbz
Also seems to be a pretty common issue across the industry, particularly with turbocharged engines where slop gets re-introduced with much more plumbing downstream that collects the oily mess. My 150 ecoboost engine has the same exact issue.
Back to Porsche. In the 928 world we got to see three breather architectures for each of the three engine architectures from '78 to '95 and three variations of the last one. It's common for '90-'91 5-speeds (GTs) to eat one quart of oil every 700 miles. The '92-'95 GTSs use in excess of 1 quart per 600 miles and some much more. (Although for the GTSs there's a long story and some of the oil ingestion is not due to the breather system.)
If you look up at the 'shop picture' I posted you may notice that both of those motors feature a large external air/oil separator that drains to the oil pan. What is less obvious is that in both cases, the system is indeed closed and complies with the spirit of regulations.
My supercharged '91 GT features a reworked breather system with an external separator and vastly increased breather capacity.
Or, in short, this is not a new topic for me. Just new for me for the 991 Turbo.
Originally Posted by pfbz
Not topping off your oil seems to help more than anything else..,
This is always true. Very-much so in 928 land. I raff at some of the 718 folks who obsess over getting the oil level exactly to the top whereas I very much don't want it to be over half-way up the "dipstick."
Originally Posted by pfbz
Dealer did replace a check valve on my right turbo inlet as well that they claimed contributed to the problem on my car (not sure if it actually did).
Thanks for that. I'll see if I can test mine tomorrow.
Originally Posted by pfbz
Beyond that, catch cans, which sometimes help, sometimes don't, and require draining.
Meh. A stop-gap at best.
Back to Porsche: they are on their fourth revision for the A/O separator for the 991s. Shop manual procedure for R&R is ... horrifying ... given the ship-in-the-bottle nature of getting to the top rear of the engine.
On mine, at first, it looked like there was no oil on the output side of the intercooler. However, today I saw that there is some. So, tomorrow I'm going to see how far up it goes. To date, I've not had the "beeping" sounds that folks on this forum have reported as associated with a dead A/O separator. For the moment, I'm going to assume that the A/O separator hasn't failed and that the partially filled suction hose is "normal" for 20k miles. I'll drive it for a 100 or so miles and then take a look see. The counter-indication is that the #4 plug's threads had some liquid oil residue.
So, on topic, today I was able to get back to the 'job' and got the plugs out.
The 'trick' with a stock exhaust is to remove the upstream oxygen sensor and then 3 of the 4 nuts that bolt the cat to the hot side. At that point you can wiggle the turbo heat shields out. There is NO way to get one of the two coil heat shield bolts out with the turbo shield in place.
Plugs came out like butter. Note that I'm technically three years late on plug replacement. My Turbo knows nothing of salt and has never seen temperatures below 50°-ish F. (On the other hand, CarChick's 991S on which I did the plugs on schedule is a four-season driver (in New England) and those plugs were uncomfortably 'squeaky' when they came out.)