what did you do with your 968 today.....
#571
Rennlist Member
Are those three bulbs the Cluster illuminating bulbs..? All but the far right one are gone [making sticking to the Speed Limit trickier at night..!] and need replacing..
Is removing the Cluster a tricky job..? Steering Wheel off presumably..?
Is removing the Cluster a tricky job..? Steering Wheel off presumably..?
#572
Instructor
I was worried about damaging the dash piece that surrounds the cluster so I removed the steering wheel. Not hard to do. If you have an airbag in the steering wheel and you do decide to remove the steering wheel, do remember to disconnect the batter a few hours before doing the job . Disconnecting ahead of time avoid getting a Airbag warning light when you reconnect.
Steve
#573
Instructor
Yep, this is what my parking brake shoes looked like when I changed them last night. It must have happened a long time ago before I bought it considering there was no trace of that missing lining remaining. I changed the rotors and pads as well as flushing the fluid also.
#574
Three Wheelin'
Jeff
The following users liked this post:
kingroon (03-03-2020)
The following users liked this post:
J1NX3D (02-29-2020)
#576
Rennlist Member
I have done a full restoration of the cluster, including splitting the clear plastic off the front to refinish the surround where it had gone kind of brown. Also disassembled light tunnels so that night lighting would be as good or better than new. Can provide lots of pics of process - let me know if you want me to create a post, or I could send to you via email.
Jeff
Jeff
thanks in advance.
#577
Instructor
I have done a full restoration of the cluster, including splitting the clear plastic off the front to refinish the surround where it had gone kind of brown. Also disassembled light tunnels so that night lighting would be as good or better than new. Can provide lots of pics of process - let me know if you want me to create a post, or I could send to you via email.
Jeff
Jeff
Im interested to hear what you think should be done with the light tunnels. Mine have intact silvering in place though it’s 25 years old. I’ve read about people removing it with solvent and replacing with foil, but wonder if that’s worth doing if it looks ok. I guess the OEM silver paint was less reflective than the surface could have been though,
Steve
#578
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Hotlanta - NE of the Perimeter
Posts: 12,269
Received 266 Likes
on
153 Posts
I have done a full restoration of the cluster, including splitting the clear plastic off the front to refinish the surround where it had gone kind of brown. Also disassembled light tunnels so that night lighting would be as good or better than new. Can provide lots of pics of process - let me know if you want me to create a post, or I could send to you via email.
Jeff
Jeff
#579
Three Wheelin'
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-07.htm
#580
Rennlist Member
Thanks. Those are great photos.
Since I replaced my illumination bulbs with LEDs and also replaced a couple of the warning bulbs successfully, I now notice a new small problem. It seems as if my coolant temperature gauge has turned or twisted a bit. The needle of this gauge now points about a 1/3rd of an inch below the lowest index mark before I start the engine. When the proper engine temperature is reached after a few miles the needle only reaches that lowest mark. Before I opened the instrumentation cluster, the needle started off pointing to the lowest index mark and reached at least the half way index mark when the engine reached its running temperature. Is it possible that I inadvertently twisted the mechanism that turns the needle while I had the cluster open? And if so can I go back in and twist it back to its original position? Advise from anybody who have had this problem will be much appreciated. If I don’t hear anything back on this I will start a new thread about this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Alwyn
Since I replaced my illumination bulbs with LEDs and also replaced a couple of the warning bulbs successfully, I now notice a new small problem. It seems as if my coolant temperature gauge has turned or twisted a bit. The needle of this gauge now points about a 1/3rd of an inch below the lowest index mark before I start the engine. When the proper engine temperature is reached after a few miles the needle only reaches that lowest mark. Before I opened the instrumentation cluster, the needle started off pointing to the lowest index mark and reached at least the half way index mark when the engine reached its running temperature. Is it possible that I inadvertently twisted the mechanism that turns the needle while I had the cluster open? And if so can I go back in and twist it back to its original position? Advise from anybody who have had this problem will be much appreciated. If I don’t hear anything back on this I will start a new thread about this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Alwyn
#581
Three Wheelin'
Thanks. Those are great photos.
Since I replaced my illumination bulbs with LEDs and also replaced a couple of the warning bulbs successfully, I now notice a new small problem. It seems as if my coolant temperature gauge has turned or twisted a bit. The needle of this gauge now points about a 1/3rd of an inch below the lowest index mark before I start the engine. When the proper engine temperature is reached after a few miles the needle only reaches that lowest mark. Before I opened the instrumentation cluster, the needle started off pointing to the lowest index mark and reached at least the half way index mark when the engine reached its running temperature. Is it possible that I inadvertently twisted the mechanism that turns the needle while I had the cluster open? And if so can I go back in and twist it back to its original position? Advise from anybody who have had this problem will be much appreciated. If I don’t hear anything back on this I will start a new thread about this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Alwyn
Since I replaced my illumination bulbs with LEDs and also replaced a couple of the warning bulbs successfully, I now notice a new small problem. It seems as if my coolant temperature gauge has turned or twisted a bit. The needle of this gauge now points about a 1/3rd of an inch below the lowest index mark before I start the engine. When the proper engine temperature is reached after a few miles the needle only reaches that lowest mark. Before I opened the instrumentation cluster, the needle started off pointing to the lowest index mark and reached at least the half way index mark when the engine reached its running temperature. Is it possible that I inadvertently twisted the mechanism that turns the needle while I had the cluster open? And if so can I go back in and twist it back to its original position? Advise from anybody who have had this problem will be much appreciated. If I don’t hear anything back on this I will start a new thread about this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Alwyn
#582
Instructor
Odometer repair
Like many others before me, I performed the "stripped odometer gear" replacement today. Replacement gears were ordered from www.odometergears.com awhile back. I was able to get the cluster out of the dash without removing the steering wheel, but it was a very tight fit - helped to have a second set of hands from a helper to apply pressure to open up the dash another mm or two during extraction and replacement. Worst part was removal and reapplication of the 3 ribbon cable attachments behind the cluster.
After completing the job, I think I might win the award for "most obliterated gear". The smaller gear was intact, but the larger one that interfaces directly with the gear that turns the odometer was destroyed.
Obliterated odometer gear
The fragments of the destroyed gear were sprinkled in the primary odometer gear and elsewhere in the housing :
Gear fragments
I wound up spending quite a bit of time cleaning out the fragments - here's a partial collection of what was removed from the remaining gears and cluster :
Gear Fragments
After cleaning the entire cluster out and adding the new replacement gear, I was able to get everything reassembled, and am happy to report I'm now "officially" logging miles again!
After completing the job, I think I might win the award for "most obliterated gear". The smaller gear was intact, but the larger one that interfaces directly with the gear that turns the odometer was destroyed.
Obliterated odometer gear
The fragments of the destroyed gear were sprinkled in the primary odometer gear and elsewhere in the housing :
Gear fragments
I wound up spending quite a bit of time cleaning out the fragments - here's a partial collection of what was removed from the remaining gears and cluster :
Gear Fragments
After cleaning the entire cluster out and adding the new replacement gear, I was able to get everything reassembled, and am happy to report I'm now "officially" logging miles again!
#583
Instructor
Ba
Like many others before me, I performed the "stripped odometer gear" replacement today. Replacement gears were ordered from www.odometergears.com awhile back. I was able to get the cluster out of the dash without removing the steering wheel, but it was a very tight fit - helped to have a second set of hands from a helper to apply pressure to open up the dash another mm or two during extraction and replacement. Worst part was removal and reapplication of the 3 ribbon cable attachments behind the cluster.
After completing the job, I think I might win the award for "most obliterated gear". The smaller gear was intact, but the larger one that interfaces directly with the gear that turns the odometer was destroyed.
After cleaning the entire cluster out and adding the new replacement gear, I was able to get everything reassembled, and am happy to report I'm now "officially" logging miles again!
After completing the job, I think I might win the award for "most obliterated gear". The smaller gear was intact, but the larger one that interfaces directly with the gear that turns the odometer was destroyed.
After cleaning the entire cluster out and adding the new replacement gear, I was able to get everything reassembled, and am happy to report I'm now "officially" logging miles again!
Steve
#584
Rennlist Member
Glad the odometer wheels are made out of colored plastic. If they were clear plastic you would never be able to find all the little bits.
Thanks for posting your experiences...
-Yogii
AKA 968 Novice
Thanks for posting your experiences...
-Yogii
AKA 968 Novice
The following users liked this post:
dbonds (03-03-2020)
#585
Instructor
Wow totally trashed! I reassembled my own speedo with new gear last night. Although time was a bit limited I hit an issue after reassembly in that it seemed pretty hard to plug the speedo back into the white housing of the cluster. There’s 4 electrical contact pins on the back of it, though only 3 of them look as if they want to line up, and getting the connectors engaged seems tricky. I stopped at that point to avoid rushing things. Wonder if there’s any trick for getting the assembled speedo back in the housing,
Speedo assembly, removed from instrument cluster
My only disassembly of the speedo unit past this point was removing the two phillips head screws visible on top of this pic - I could then lift off the circuit board (wires still attached) that then exposed the old gear. Did my work on gear and cleaning (in my original post above), then reattached this small circuit board and replaced speedo assembly back into the cluster.
Assembly back into the instrument cluster then only required getting the black peg on bottom of this pic (sending unit for speed?) into the appropriate hole on the cluster, lining up the screw holes and replacing the 4 screws to secure speedo assembly into cluster. I didn't notice (or pay attention to) any electrical contacts that may of been there, but it worked fine when reassembled.
Did you have a different method to get into the gears within the speedo assembly (maybe making reassembly more difficult)?
The following users liked this post:
ste1999 (03-02-2020)